Review: Katabasis

 I have to applaud R. F. Kuang's PR team. Within the same week, I got 3 magazines in my mailbox with a profile of her: The New Yorker, The Atlantic, and Outside Magazine (!!). This was all done in coordination with the launch of her new book, Katabasis.

R. F. Kuang's superpower is skating to where public attention will be. Yellowface, for instance was about cultural misappropriation, and Katabasis is about graduate school (and University as well) as hell, timed to coincide with the decline of public support of elite Universities. Set in Cambridge (keep in mind that Kuang despite having 4 degrees is going for yet another PhD, so she's spent essentially all her life in one school or another), the universe of Katabasis is an alternate world in which magic and the study of it is a defined rigorous subject in academia, and the protagonist, Alice Law, is a graduate student under a demanding supervising professor. When that supervisor dies in a research accident, she decides the only thing to do is to go to hell and retrieve him. The other student Professor Grimes supervises also decides to join her.

This is by far the weakest link in the story. The cost of visiting hell is high (half your remaining life), and while Alice Law might have had sufficient motiviation to recover Grimes (her hatred for him is revealed later in the book), the after-recovery plan stinks and makes no sense. In fact, this aspect of the book smells a bit like an autobiography, complete with R. F. Kuang's in-real-life husband (who does suffer from a similarly dehibilitating condition) playing the role of Peter Murdoch.

The depiction of hell is kinda bland and boring. That's probably because no matter how Kuang tries to depict it, academia isn't actually hellish. Think about it: people willingly give up additional 4-6 years of their lives at low pay for a chance to get a tenure track position. If it was truly hell, you would have to pay more to get less talented people, but many of the brightest people in the world sacrifice so much to live their lives at University, and as one of my academic friends once said, "Being a tenured professor means you get to work on whatever you want which is like being retired already."

As a fantasy novel, I'm not sure Katabasis works. The problem with writers who come from out of genre to write fantasy and science fiction, is that they tend to write magic as a form of deus ex machina. There are no rules, anything goes, and so whatever happens in the novel is whatever the author can think up. This is fine if you're telling a bedtime story to a 3 or 5 year old. In a full length novel, what happens is that the reader feels that the author is unfair and there was no way for you to have seen the ending coming (especially since in this case the ending comes in the form of a gift from a character Alice Law betrayed!).

The way to predict the novel's ending, of course, is through meta-cognition --- you knew that R. F. Kuang married her husband, so the ending must involve Alice Law rescuing Peter Murdoch and them getting to live happily ever after. I guess that's why Kuang's PR team landed all those profiles of her in various magazines --- so you might not come away after reading the book feeling cheated.

Capitola Overnight

• Video from Xiaoqin's GoPro

This year the kids declined to do any biking for Labor Day, and we ended up doing a hike or two instead. But for my birthday, I wanted to revisit Jamison Creek, a road I hadn't climbed for at least 15 years, so I booked a room at the Monarch Cove Inn, laid out a route and then invited Mark Brody to join Xiaoqin and I --- we'd taken the last room at the Inn but he found suitable accomodations in Santa Cruz despite their being a triathlon on that weekend. I'd always wanted to know how the Roadini handled as a credit card load touring bike, so rather than bring my custom Strong frame (which had the Ortlieb mount on it making it a pain to remove for just an overnight trip), I installed the Carradice Bagman on the Roadini and the Carradice Nelson Longflap, which unlike many modern bikepacking bags actually have a light attachment loop mounted. The Roadini had Conti Terraspeed tires on it, but I wasn't going on any challenging off road riding on this strip, so I installed a Michelin Power Cup 28 on the front Ritchey Zeta Wheel, and a leftover nearly worn out Vittoria Corsa NEXT 34mm tire on the rear.

Loading up with myself and Xiaoqin's minimal overnight setup, the ride felt heavier than I expected but on the other hand my overnight setup included a CPAP machine so that was to be expected. Mark Brody missed his train to Mountain View the night before so we couldn't get started until he arrived on the first train the next day, well after 9:00am. Eva would also join us for the climb up highway 9.

Xiaoqin headed up expecting us to catch her, but had forgotten that she was unloaded while both Mark and I were carrying a load. The climb up Highway 9 was easy though with the weekend traffic it could hardly be called enjoyable. At the top, we waited for Eva and then Mark. Mark had suffered from insomnia and did not have a good time up highway 9, so he wouldn't be able to join us on Jamison Creek.

Descending Highway 9 was fine. We were passed by 2-3 groups of cars but they occured at places where we could pull over. Once onto Highway 236 into Big Basin the traffic petered away and we arrived at the intersection with China Grade road having marvelled at how many trees had survived the fire with just charring at the base instead of burning. Mark was lagging, though, which meant that descending China Grade despite its washed out and bumpy ride was better than taking the extra 10 mile loop through Park HQ.

Arriving at the bottom of China grade, I waited for the others. The descent was scary, but if you pretended it was a mountain bike trail it's way easier than most singletrack at any beginner's mountain bike park. You had to be willing to stay off the saddle, however. From there it was only 3 miles to the bottom of Jamison Creek Road but we were out of water and stopped at the Golf Course just before the intersection to refill our water bottles. Once we saw the menu we ordered some food as well --- a salad split with Xiaoqin and myself to avoid overloading stomachs prior to a hard climb, and some Tacos for Mark to get him to Santa Cruz via Branciforte.

Climbing Jamison Creek was a bear and I wasn't looking forward to it given how warm it was. I was pleasantly surprised therefore, to find that it was almost completely shaded. It was still warm and my shirt and shorts were completely soaked by the time I was half way up, but it wasn't the scorcher it could have been. The steep parts near the intersection with Empire Grade road required getting up and standing on the saddle while breathing hard, and I questioned bringing the heavier bike for a few moments but once we got onto Empire Grade road the grade lightened up dramatically.

Empire Grade road is much like Skyline Boulevard, with swoopy curves, rolling hills, but with much fewer vistas than the latter. The traffic, however, was much lighter which made it a lot of fun. Once we descended past UCSC we were in Santa Cruz proper, where the route took us past the boardwalk and over the bridge. From there a road closure forced us off the route into some unplanned unpaved excursions but all was well. The hitch was the final block to the hotel where I'd gotten confused as to the street the hotel was on but two phone calls with the hotel manager solved the problem, and we found the place and were checked in.

After a shower and stretching we got dressed and went to dinner at Mijo's Tacos, followed by a short walk exploring the little cute hotels that looked very European on the beach. Then we went to Gayle's bakery to eat chocolate cake and buy secondary breakfast. (Monarch Cove Inn served breakfast but it would be anemic by cycling standards)

The next morning we got up early enough to see the sunrise over the water from the Inn grounds! On the West Coast you don't expect that but the position of the Inn,, the time of year, and the Monterey Bay all conspired to give us a beautiful view of the sun over the ocean fog. Mark arrived just after we'd had breakfast and were packing. We checked out of the hotel and rode the traditional "apple pie ride" route over to Trout Gulch Road and to Corralitos before starting the climb up Eureka Canyon.

Eureka Canyon is a beautiful and lightly traffic'd climb through the redwoods to Summit Road. While the surface is bump and in many places falling apart, at climbing speeds that doesn't bother the cyclist much. The shade helped a lot and even at the top the sun wasn't bothersome. We had a quick snack at Buzzard Lagoon road and therefore skipped the summit store in favor of beelining to Los Gatos via the Los Gatos Creek trail. We even skipped Aldercroft Heights and the long way around the lake in favor of a dirt trail Xiaoqin had found earlier this. year.

After the ice cream Mark headed off to the San Jose train station while Xiaoqin and I made our way home. It was a great trip at over 100 miles in 2 days with almost 10000' of elevation gain. The Roadini more than proved itself a capable credit card touring machine.

Review: Empire of Pain

 Empire of Pain is the history of the Sackler family. This is the family responsible for the opioid epidemic in the USA, killing lots of Americans and contributing to the recent decline in life expectancy in the country. 

What I didn't realize was that the Sacklers were also responsible for Valium, which was also marketed widely. (Arthur Slacker, the patriarch of the family was one of the first people to market medicines directly to doctors, and pioneered the use of drug company representatives who visit physician offices one at a time over time in order to get the doctors to write more prescriptions for the drug)

This made the family rich, and they used that wealth to start collecting art and getting their names into museums. The family also owned a variety of other firms, one notably called IMS, that tracked where prescriptions were being filled, granting valuable information about which regions of the country are buying which drugs. They also owned a notable medical journal, which also served as placement venues for their ads budget.

This complex web of businesses was a design, and the three Sackler brothers (and their spouses) were in on it. In order to avoid the appearance of improprietary, ownership of the various companies were split, occasionally given to various close friends of the family so that Arthur Sackler wouldn't been seen as serving himself.

When the family bought Purdue Pharmaceuticals, they started with making MS Contin, a slow release morphine pill that could be swallowed. This was as opposed to injected morphine, allowing those in hospice care to go home and self medicate. Of course, morphine has a negative reputation, and doctors would think twice before prescribing it. They would then come up with Oxycontin, which is a similar slow release form of Oxycodone, which apparently is an even more powerful opiate but which doctors didn't associate with addiction because its previous formulations was in very low dose and weak forms.

The book is exhaustive in its documentation about the tenuousness of the entire FDA approval process. Apparently, the FDA official in charge was bribed with a future consulting job at Purdue Pharmaceuticals, and he allowed all sorts of wild claims that were not substantiated in the literature accompanying the drug. At the same time, the company promoted up other non-evidence-based claims that the slow release nature of the pill would mean that the drug was not addictive.

The most frustrating bit about the book, of course, is that there's no happy ending. The Sacklers get away (by hiring very good lawyers) with their wealth intact, while leaving tax payers holding the bag for all the drug rehab centers and loss of lives. The book implies but doesn't provide evidence that the judge handling the bankruptcy case was on the take from the Sacklers --- he retired after he finished handling the case.

The only bright spot in the ending is that one of the activists managed to get the Sackler name removed from many of the donated buildings and wings of various famous places (including the New York Met, Tufts' medical school), and the Sacklers are no longer held in high esteem amongst the society they like to hang out with. There's pretty slim consolation for any who lost loved ones to the opioid epidemic though.

It's a depressing book, but everyone should read it.

Review: Shokz Openswim Pro

 I started doing more swimming again, and once again, swimming isn't like cycling. The scenery doesn't change (and in America, the scenery is particularly awful), and it's pretty much boring to do just lap after lap. Since I'm not a competitive swimmer, I can't even bring myself to push hard and do intervals and try to go faster. (Swimming speed is almost 100% technique --- no amount of thrashing about will speed you up --- you just have to get the perfect stroke in consistently)

I've tried plenty of swimming headphones in the past, and they've all failed. One possibility, however, is Bone Conduction headphones. I found a pair of Shokz Openswim Pros at a sub $100 price on eBay and jumped on it.

Openswim Pros are called Pros because in addition to having onboard storage and waterproofing, they can pair to a bluetooth phone and stream audio as well. At a public swimming pool I'm not going to have my phone next to the pool to stream music, so in retrospect I didn't need the pro.

The nice thing about the headphones is that they work. The sound quality isn't great, but they work both in an out of the water. The worst thing about them is that their in-water and out-of-water sound volumes are completely different. So if you adjust it so that you can hear the music at a decent volume, when your head's in the water you feel like you're getting music blasted at you at high volume. This is of no issue if you're doing the crawl or backstroke. If you're doing the breast stroke, however, this is very annoying.

Another problem with the product is that there's no display and no method for organizing songs. The device will either shuffle all or play them all in order. You have no way of playing an audiobook split into chapters in a reasonable fashion. That's OK. Music in the pool is better anyway, because falling asleep while swimming would be embarrassing.

All in all, I enjoyed the product and use it. It's good.

Review: Arrowsmith

 After admiring Carlos Pacheco's work on Superman, I decided to look for more of his work, and came across Arrowsmith, which comes in two volumes: So Smart In Their Fine Uniforms, and Behind Enemy Lines. Since Pacheco is now dead and the second book ends in a bit of a cliffhanger, you have to be OK with the story probably never getting finished.

The world is a fantasy version of the state of the planet during World War 1, complete with trolls, dragons, and wizards and magic spells substituting for the technology. In this world, history is quite a bit different (there's an appendix in volume one where a writer friend of Kurt Busiek fills in the background behind the world).

The art is the highlight of both volumes. Pacheco's art is gorgeous, and makes you really believe the world exists. The story is a bit of a cliche --- it's the loss of innocence that happened in World War 1 but transplanted into this fantasy milieu. Sure, maybe that's some plot about the trolls being the bridge to the sunlit lands or to the seelie court, but to be honest Busiek breaks no new ground here in the story. As a vehicle for beautiful art though I cannot fault the setting or the way the story takes you through a mythic version of a Europe that might have been, seen from the point of view of an starry eyed American would-be-hero.

The story is short and obviously unfinished, so we never see how the world of Arrowsmith lives up to its potential. But it was very much worth my time checking it out from the library.

Review: TheMagic5 Swimming Googles

 I've been using Cressi tempered glass swimming goggles for years. They work, even though they're heavy, but they do leak on initial entry into water, and I usually spend the first few laps constantly adjusting the googles until they're just right. I saw an add for TheMagic5 goggles, which claim to personalize a pair of goggles for your face such that they won't leak and will fit perfectly. 

I was skeptical, of course. I've used various goggles and they've always leaked. And of course, if I were running the show, I would consider just buying standard googles and then making the same fit guarantee. The ones for whom it didn't work would just return the goggles but the ones for whom the goggle fit would be pleased and would have paid an insane amount for non custom goggles. I tried them anyway.

The goggles take far longer than the website promises to deliver. From ordering to delivery (the scanning process demanded a smartphone app with the camera and it took a couple of tries but in total took about 15 minutes) it was more than 3 weeks. When they showed up, they were unusual, being split where the nose piece is (the nose piece is actually a slot on one side and a hook on the other so you would put the two sides together. The instructions say to just let the goggles find their place on your face and not to over-tighten. The goggles come with anti-fog coating and you're told not to touch the inside of the goggles.

To my surprise, the goggles just fit and did not leak! The weird curvature of the goggles made me think that there was a layer of water at first, but when I flipped over and did a backstroke there was no stinging in the eyes from chlorine. No amount of diving, flipping, or playful thrashing about in the water dislodged the goggles. And the goggles never fogged up either!

I'm forced to recommend these and rescind my cynicism. They work. I use them and think they're great.

Review: AstroCity Metro Book Vol 6

 I never got around to buying/reading the last few AstroCity collections, and it turned out that they're now all available on Hoopa as part of the Metro Book collections, so I checked out the final volume. The framing story is that of a mysterious blue-skinned character known as the Broken Man. It turns out that he's the last of a series of historical supernatural characters that embody music. This gives Busiek a chance to explore the history of Astro City and its previous incarnations.

Unlike the first few AstroCity volumes, which focus on the mundane characters living in AstroCity, this one is truly focused on the superheroes. What I like about the heroes is that these are all really quirky characters. One is literally the figment of his daughter's imagination (unfortunately, I got exposed to the same idea in Kurt Busiek's Creature of the Night). Another is an amulet that confers the power of a bonded animal with the human it's attuned to. This one was fun, because the amulet got bonded with a Corgi puppy. The result was hilarious (imagine a superhero being told how adorable and cute he is after saving the day).

One great mundane story was a follow up to a story told in the first volume of Astro City where a man lost his wife as a result of a time changing battle between heroes and a volume, and as a result his wife never existed. In that story, he was given the choice to forget her and absorb himself into his new timeline or to remember both time lines. In this story, we see the followup consequences of that. It was a great story.

I enjoyed the book. It kinda ends tentatively --- we never see what happens to the Broken Man. I get the impression Busiek abandoned Astro City because his other contracts were more lucrative. It's a unique universe, however, so I hope he comes back to it.

Review: Superman - Camelot Falls

 While browsing Hoopla I saw that Busiek wrote another Superman story called Camelot Falls, so I checked it out as well.

The thesis behind Camelot Falls is that human civilizations move in cycles, with a rise and then a fall. The fall can be resisted, and Superman and the Justice League form one of the forces resisting the fall. An ancient Atlantean sorcerer called Arion insists, however, that the longer the fall is put off the worst it will be, and if Superman insists on going on his current path it would result in the extinction of humanity.

Superman, of course, posits that he has free will, and that he cannot simply not help out and feel good about himself (was there any doubt about this?). He has a fight with Arion and defeats him, but the overall arc of the story ends there --- apparently Busiek stopped working on Superman and nobody ever picked up the unfinished grand plot he left behind, leaving the story very unsatisfying.

There are a few interesting pieces of the story, including one where it is revealed that everyone from the United States government and the Justice League has a plan for stopping Superman on the day he goes rogue from mind control, magic, or just decides to turn against humanity. The intention there is to make you feel how alienated Superman can feel.

In this Superman universe, he's married to Lois Lane and they even have a child. Lana Lang is running LexCorp (another weird one). The art is fantastic (especially the interpretations of Lois Lane and Lana Lang), making me sad that Carlos Pacheco died in 2022.

I can't really recommend this story. It's just not that satisfying and an unfinished storyline. Probably the only reason to read it is to look at Pacheco's art.

Reiew: The Molecule of More

 The Molecule of More is a book length exposition of Dopamine. There's plenty of exposition about Dopamine's role in well known human syndromes such as addiction, but this book managed to explain it in a clear and interesting fashion without boring me, which I thought made it an excellent book to read as a review of what I'd already learned in previous books.

The long and short of the book is that Dopamine is the molecule exuded by your brain when there's a positive prediction error. In other words when something is a lot more pleasant or pleasurable than you expected. This leads you to do more of whatever the action you took until that positive prediction error goes away, which of course is pretty fast in the case of typical substances like food or drink.

When it comes to addictive substances like drugs (alcohol, cocaine, or sometimes even video games), however, this prediction error can turn you into an addict. In those circumstances, what medical practice can do is to try to heighten the pleasure you get from the H&N ("here and now") molecules which your body uses to direct pleasure at what you currently have as opposed to anticipatory pleasure that dopamine provides. Disappointingly enough, the book doesn't go into very much detail about how H&N molecules work.

The book then expands on this principle to describe how certain people who have heightened dopamine receptors can never be unhappy no matter how much they have. This explains why certain driven people keep focusing on achievements no matter what they've achieved, and why Mick Jagger never settled down with a single woman and just kept looking for more.

Some of the book is clearly speculative, for instance, the section speculating on how immigrants tend to have more dopamine receptors. Many of the book's points are told in the form of stories about an individual that feel compelling.

I enjoyed this book and can recommend it.

Review: Batman - Creature of the Night

 After reading Superman - Secret Identity, I discovered that Kurt Busiek wrote the Batman equivalent called Creature of the Night which showed up in 2020. So of course I checked it out of the library via Hoopla and read it.

Just like the other graphic novel, this one is set in a world where DC Comics exist, and everyone knows that Bruce Wayne is Batman. In fact, growing up, Bruce Wainwright loved Batman and made sure everyone knew about it, even calling a family friend Alfred.

When Wainwright's parents are killed, he gets distraught and somehow a Batman appears to help him out. Over the rest of the graphic novel, we get exposition about the nature of this Batman (which is nothing like the conventional Batman comics) and then we deal with how the real world differs from the easy answers of the Batman comics.

The story falls strictly into the fantasy category. There is no explanation for the Batman that makes sense (unlike even in the official DC comics), though there's some bizarre explanation in the narrative that's unsatisfying to me. There's no deep exploration of Bruce's psyche, and there's no long journey where Bruce gets any ephiphanies. That makes this book a weaker work than Secret Identity, but it was worth reading for a unique take on Batman.

Review: Superman - Secret Identity

 Somehow I'd missed that Kurt Busiek wrote a Superman story called Secret identity. Well, of course I had to go and check it out from Hoopla. The story is set on Earth Prime (or rather, our Earth, where no superheroes exist). On Earth Prime, DC Comics continue to publish superhero comics, so everyone knows that Clark Kent is Superman. Except, in this universe Clark Kent was just the cruel joke played on him by his parents, who figured why not subject their kids to the worst bullying possible by naming him Clark when they live in Picketsville, Kansas.

Much like the story in Invincible, Clark Kent has a normal childhood and grows up having broken bones just like any other kid. But in high school, his powers manifest one day, and he discovers that he's Superman! Unlike other Superman stories there are no Lex Luthors or other Super-Villains. (There is a Lois, but not Lois Lane) He works as a writer, but not as a reporter for a newspaper. (It's The New Yorker)

The challenges this version of Superman gets are of course, the government trying to capture him and subject him to experiments and so forth. (Why governments are never sensible can probably be a PhD thesis on Earth Prime) Strangely enough, this Superman can get his blood drawn and so on. We see him fall in love, get married, have kids, and even retire.

As Superman stories go, this is a pretty down to earth, easy to read, and short story. We never get to see where his powers come from, or whether he truly was adopted. There are lots of loose ends. But beyond that it's a pretty reasonable story but not quite up to par with Busiek's AstroCity work.

Review: Good Omens Graphic Novel

 I will confess that I've always bounced off Terry Prachett's work. Disc World, you name it, I can't read more than a few pages before I'm tired of it. Good Omens (the novel) was no exception. But a year or so ago Bowen and Boen got into watching the TV show, and I found that I enjoyed it. I guess I liked the plot, it was always Terry Prachett's writing that left me cold.

Colleen Doran announced that she was doing a graphic novel adaptation of Good Omens. It was a kickstarter project, and I backed it before the allegations about Neil Gaiman was announced. In any case, it wouldn't have felt fair to knock Colleen Doran for associating with Gaiman. The graphic novel took a year or so to deliver, and I'd even forgotten about it by the time it showed up in the mail.

It's a testament to how far Gaiman's star has fallen that his name wasn't even on the title page to the book, though it showed up in the interior splash page. The art is great, as you can expect from Doran, but you can tell that the comic was adapted from a (very wordy) novel. There are several places where a traditional comic book author would tell the story in pictures rather than huge blocks of text that were probably lifted from the novel proper.

Where the comic differs from the TV show, it was clear that the show was the one that deviated from the novel. The novel does the usual Gaiman schtick of setting up for a great battle and then having it be defused with an anticlimax (the TV show doesn't shy away from that schtick). The graphic novel adds enough color (literally) and distraction that the Terry Prachett prose didn't bother me at all.

What can I say? A comic book that lets me read a novel that I've bounced off. That makes it recommended.

San Francisco Crosstown and Double Cross Walks

I had a little epiphany recently where I thought to myself, "People from all over the world pay lots of money and fly into San Francisco. We live right here. Maybe we can do a few excursions just like a tourist would and see whether it's any good!" With that, I found the San Francisco Doublecross and the San Francisco Crosstown walks and decided to tackle them over a couple of Saturdays.

Both these walks start at free parking lots in San Francisco (Fort Funston and Candlestick Park), which is important because you're going to be gone all day. Despite San Francisco's reputation, on neither days did our cars get broken into. On the return you're going to have to Uber/Waymo or take public transit back. Since San Francisco public transit sucks, you're probably going to have to Uber or Waymo. Of the two ride hailing services, Waymo actually will refuse to deliver you to either Candlestick Park or Fort Funston, but on the Doublecross it can deliver you to Lake Merced and by pushing the "Pullover" button at a judicious time you can keep the walk back to the parking lot to less than a mile. Of course, the price of these ride hailing services is such that this is far more expensive than any of the other hikes in the Bay Area where you can loop back to the car. On the other hand, you're basically pretending to be a tourist who's paid at least a few hundred dollars for the flight to San Francisco, so you can still pretend to come out ahead.

The nice thing about doing a walk like this in the city is that you pretty much only need to carry a small water bottle and your wallet (or phone with GPay/Apple Pay) and walk. There's plenty of places to buy food, refill your water bottle, and in the case of the Crosstown, there are even many designated restrooms along the way. There are also plenty of distractions, so even if you're a fast walker (we're not), do not expect either of these walks to take less than a day.

Of the two walks, the Double Cross is actually a much better route. It starts at Fort Funston and ends at Pier 29, so you have a tail wind most of the way, which makes it much more comfortable. It also shows off more of the iconic San Francisco neighborhoods, taking you through Stern Grove, Twin Peaks, China Town, Little Italy, and Embarcadero, Coit Tower, and of course the San Francisco Exploratorium. The Crosstown by contrast does take you through the Presidio and Golden Gate Park, but neither feel as iconic. The DoubleCross also shows you the homeless situation in San Francisco while the Crosstown strictly avoids homelessness.

Both routes have about 2000 feet of climbing, and would never take a route around a hill when it can take you directly over it for maximum chance of views. I chose to do both walks in the summer so we would have maximum daylight despite relatively late starts, and also because summer is when hiking in the south bay would be extremely hot while San Francisco is nice and cool, providing a nice break from the summer heat.

Both Candlestick park and Fort Funston close at sunset, so there's a deadline for the hike --- you must return to your car by the time the parks close, so you must finish by around 7:00pm in the summer. Candlestick park is nowhere close to good dining, but Fort Funston is conveniently located near Soul Rice, one of the few good Chinese restaurants you can find easily that never has a wait and serves food quickly. In both cases we finished the walk within about 7 hours of starting (including a half hour or so for lunch), and our kids are 14 and 10, so this should be well within the capability of most non-sedentary adults.

Both walks showed me aspects of San Francisco that I'd never made a point of visiting before, and also provide iconic visits to the city's many varied parks. The best time to do this hike if you're capable of getting up early is in the Spring or Fall, when the views wouldn't be obscured by the heavy fog. Nevertheless, I enjoyed both walks as a respite from the heat as well as an idea of what causes people to travel to visit San Francisco.

Review: Hileen replacement nosepads for Oakley cycling glasses

 One of the most annoying things about cycling with glasses is when they keep sliding down your nose. I've tried stuff like nerdwax which works for ordinary glasses, but those absolutely do not work with cycling glasses like my preferred Oakleys.

I did notice that Amazon sold replacement nosepads by various Chinese manufacturers, and the Hileen one advertises that they make special Asian-fit nosepads. I bought them and installed them and used them all throughout the tour this year. They alleviate the problem, but don't make it completely go away. It turns out that the most likely cause of glasses slipping is your helmet being a bit loose and rattling down on your glasses and causing them to slide down.

After I got back, I decided that this wasn't helping, and then switched to the original pads that came with my glasses. Wow, the originals were so much worse that I immediately switched back after one ride. So these are effective. Recommended.

Review: Wolftooth Encase Hex Wrench Kit

 If you have a minimalist toolbag on your bike, you probably at some point run out of space. One alternative is to stow your tools into your handlebar, but then it would rattle. The Wolftooth Encase system solves that problem by wrapping the tool in a rubber sleeve that slips into your handlebar end so it doesn't rattle.

The wolftooth system comes with a spoke wrench, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8mm allen wrenches, a collection of torx wrenches, a spoke wrench, and both flathead and philips heads screwdrivers. The handle features a swivel head so you can place the tool in the right place. Cleverly, the swivel happens in only one plane so you can still rotate the tools when screwing or unscrewing something.

The penalty is that all wolftooth systems stuff is extremely expensive. I bought it only as part of a scratch and dent sale and it was still expensive. There's also a corresponding encase sleeve with a chaintool, but since one of my two handlebar end spots is taken up by a bar end shifter, I only bought the wrench set.

I was skeptical of how easy it was to get the entire toolkit flush with the handlebars, and indeed it doesn't sit flush, but that's a good thing --- when you need to extract the toolkit, you still need a bit of extra grip so you can pull the tool out.

Identifying the correct sized wrench is a bit of a headache --- the labels aren't quite easy to read, especially in the dark, but after a bit of fumbling you can get it out. With magnetic attachment systems each bit fits right into place with a satisfying snap. However, the magnetic attachment system is not very strong. I left a bit in a hex socket once after tightening when I removed the body but the bit remained in place. No problem, as soon as I reached to put the bit back into place I discovered the problem.

Everything is held together with rubber bands that you have to slip off when you need to extract a bit for use. It's a bit of a hassle, but I have yet to lose a bit.

Compared to the regular multi-tools, it's light and saves a lot of space. But it's also too expensive for me to deploy on all my bikes, so it only gets used on my light day-riding/commute bike. I can recommend it if you have only one bike, but I suspect a bigger saddlebag is a better (and cheaper) option for most.

Review: Beguilement

 Amazon showed me that Beguilement was for sale for $2. The library didn't have it in electronic format and I found myself thinking: "Wait, a Lois Bujold series I haven't read?" And I bought it and read it in 3 days or so.

This story is a romance (a lot of Bujold's stories are romances), about the meeting of Dag and Fawn. The world they're in has a lake and Dag belongs to the Lakewalkers, a semi-militarized group of patrols whose job is to seek out "malices" (essentially evil spirits) that occasionally wake up and take over mammals or humans and start attempting to take over the world.

The story starts with Dag rescuing Fawn from one of the local malice's minions, and through a series of mishaps and misadventures Fawn ends up killing the malice. They fall in love and the rest of the story in-clues you into the milieu through their integrating their disparate lives together, and demonstrating what the major superpower the patrollers have (called "groundsense") are.

The characters are great (Lois Bujold's characters always are). They're not as well formed as Miles Vorkosigan was, but they're relatable and Bujold's writing always makes you care about them. This being the first of a 4-part series, the world isn't as fully fleshed out but you get some hints of what should be upcoming reveals --- Bujold always plays fair in that anything that she reveals probably got some useful hints earlier on in the narrative. That's what made her such a good SF writer, and that rigor carries over nicely to her fantasy fiction.

Even mediocre Bujold is good reading. Contrasting her writing with Murakami makes me feel that the world is unfair. In a more just world, Bujold would get just as much attention from mainstream outlets as Murakami's novels get.

Long term review: Waxing Chains

 I've been waxing chains on my family's fleet of bicycles for about 18 months. When I first started doing this, I considered it a hassle (and to some extent it's still a hassle). First, I had to clean the drivetrain fairly thoroughly (I didn't do a perfect job). I also made the transition during a winter where it actually rained quite a bit and found myself having to rewax the chain after each rain.

Over time, I transitioned first the tandem and when I built up Xiaoqin's Ritchey Road Logic and Bowen's Roadini I started them both on waxed chain. The tandem wore out a SRAM 1101 chain after only 1000 miles despite my waxing it, making me question whether the wax was helping a lot. But my custom single bike had gone over 6000 miles without the chain wearing out, which made me think that the tandem experience was due to my using a $10 chain instead of a $30 chain. I switched that bike over to a Shimano CUES chain just before last year's tour and sure enough, despite the tandem load and two tours, the chain is still going strong.

Xiaoqin had the same SRAM 1101 chain fall apart in the wax port, something that I couldn't attribute to any wear. I decided she rode enough to have two chains waxed at the same time, and would just swap chains whenever one needed to be waxed. This makes the process much easier and you're never at risk of having a bike out of service because the chain is being waxed.

We also tried the Silca Endurance Chip. I was skeptical that it would have any benefit, but this winter, Bowen went through fairly rainy commutes, and his bike was always outside exposed to the rain when he was at school. Despite that, the chain was still good, and he toured on the same chain (with a wax job both before and after the tour).

During the tour we exposed the bikes to rain on a somewhat frequent basis, and the bikes also rode through substantial gravel. In all cases, we only added liquid wax lubricant after a rainy ride. When the tour was over I measured all the chains and none of them had worn!

We now have only 4 bikes in the fleet that have not converted to wax lubrication. My Roadini, Boen's Salsa, my MTB, and Xiaoqin's MTB. All of them will get converted when their existing chains wear out. The implication of waxing means that chains are no longer consumables, and it's justifiable to buy chains that match the color of the frames for instance. It also means that I'm willing to run more expensive cassettes going forward as those will also not be consumables.

To my surprise, I'm now a chain waxing advocate. It's a hassle, but it does seem to provide benefits commensurate with the hassle involved.

Review: Gabaruk 11-50 11s cassette

Gabaruk's 11-50 11s cassette can be gotten for $211. For a weight savings of approximately 300g, it handily beats the $1/gram of weight savings metric that most cyclists use when considering equipment. I bought two, one for Xiaoqin's Ritchey Road Logic (getting that bike under 8kg with pedals!) and one for Bowen's Roadini after watching her experience with it.

The obvious benefit is that the cassette is lighter. It achieves the light weight by replacing the giant 50t steel sprocket with one made out of aluminum. In theory this means that sprocket will wear out faster. However, since we wax our chains, cassette wear is now minimal on all our bikes.

The big loss is in shifting performance. The Gabaruk simply does not shift as smoothly or as well as the Shimano m5100 or the CUES linkglide cassette. Just like older drivetrains, you have to ease up when shifting, and if you flub a shift, the cassette has a disturbing tendency to drop the chain and cause the drivetrain to shift all the way to the smallest sprocket, which usually is the complete opposite of what you intended to do. As a result, I do not recommend this cassette to tandems, heavy people, or the kind of people who want to (or need to) shift under load without easing up on the pedals.

Both Xiaoqin and Bowen complain about the shifting performance. On the other hand, when asked if they'd like the old cassette back the answer has usually been a "no." 300g is half a pound, which is a lot when you weigh in under 100 pounds like Bowen, and both the Ritchey and the Roadini are at a point where I cannot easily shave more weight from either bike. I'll continue to accept the weight penalty on my single and on the tandem, given that I weigh more and the savings is not as important, and I do ride in situations where a bad shift could be very undesirable.

If you are light or have a light touch on the pedals and can ease off when shifting, the Gabaruk is a very nice weight savings for a relatively low price.

Review: Play Nice

 Play Nice is Jason Schreier's corporate history of Blizzard Entertainment. Written in a breathless manner that befits its subject, the book is fast paced and covers Blizzard from its origins as a 2 person startup to a corporation that was sold first to Davidson & Associates, then to Vivendi, then to Activision, and finally the sale to Microsoft.

For those of us who got their careers in Silicon Valley, this book is a reminder that the entertainment industry, particularly video game companies outside Silicon Valley, doesn't believe in sharing the wealth. Other than the two founders, the initial employees at Blizzard never got stock options or any other form of equity, so when Blizzard was first sold, only its founders got wealthy. This story repeated itself until the sale to Activision, whereupon some staff (not all) got some sort of profit sharing bonuses, but even that was computed in an opaque fashion. It's no wonder that game industry veterans are frequently so bitter.

The book does mention people I actually met (e.g., Pat Wyatt, one of the early engineers at Blizzard). Wyatt was actually as good a programmer as his reputation, though Warcraft (and later Diablo) had its share of bad code. Nevertheless, I remember Wyatt walking me through Warcraft's two player code over the phone and talking me through inserting an IP layer into it --- it was a very productive session.

The book does cover the various sexual harassment scandals that ultimately caused the Blizzard sale. It places it in context, noting that many various events could also be attributed to Blizzard's fast and loose culture and very young staff. It also covered the go-go years at Blizzard, when it could seemingly do no wrong, from Warcraft II to Starcraft to World of Warcraft, it seemed as though Blizzard's every product was a big success.

To the extent that the book has villains, its mostly corporate managers who had no passion for video games and themselves could never sit down and play video games or take it seriously as a hobby. The book attributes Blizzard's success to its own employees being enthusiastic games who would provide feedback and polish the product rather than release it early to make a fast buck. Taking down Diablo III's auction house, for instance, was also an unusual move for a company to actively delete a way of monetizing the product in favor of making the game actually better for players.

Of course, such dedication to product quality is very hard in a world where "enshittification" is the rule. Whether Blizzard continues to make good games after its acquisition by Microsoft is very much in doubt. I enjoyed the book and found it entertaining. Well worth your time.

2025 Tour Epilogue

We woke up early at Das Ludwig and packed up. We walked down to the dining area of the hotel and it was closed. We realized then that the hotel didn't offer breakfast by default and we didn't order any. Well, we were already up, so we brushed our teeth and then left the hotel, not being able to figure out the self-checkout kiosk. I would later e-mail the hotel and get back an invoice for paying the city tax.

The train station was just a couple of blocks, past the supermarket (which wasn't open). Once inside the train station, we found a snack store/bakery open. To my surprise, the ticket machine would not take "tap to pay" and only took cash! Fortunately, the bookstore was open and was willing to exchange my large notes for smaller notes that the machine was willing to take.  In Germany, as long as you're traveling within the state of Bavaria, you can buy a single group ticket for up to 5 people that will let you take unlimited regional express trains and double as the local municipal transit tickets as well. Unlike in Switzerland, the tandem counts as only one bike instead of two, making German trains far cheaper than Swiss trains. The ticket is non-transferable, as you have to sign it to make it valid. We bought snacks, ate and then went to the platform to wait for the train.

When the train arrived, we discovered that the bike car was large enough for the single bikes but just a tad too short for the tandem. This was no big deal and the conductor never gave us a hard time about it. The train ride was smooth and easy, though it stopped frequently in the Lindau area and then became a true express as it got closer to Munich, stopping less and less frequently until it got to downtown Munich.

Rather than deal with the main train station, we got off at Donnersburgerbrucke to transfer to the airport S-bahn. The single bikes could transfer using the elevator but the tandem couldn't. Fortunately if you're willing to violate the restrictions against using the escalators it's no big deal. Just roll the tandem onto the escalator and hold both brakes as the escalator ascends (or descends). The S-1 was late and very full by the time we got in, so we had to be in separate compartments. Fortunately, under those circumstances you're also unlikely to have to get your tickets inspected. 

Exiting at the airport, we rolled the bike up the escalator again and walked over to the Hilton. It was too early to checkin, but we had 3 bikes to pack. We got out the bike cases which had been untouched for our entire time on tour, and disassembled the bikes. Outside the hotel as the staff had become picky about us doing disassembly inside. Xiaoqin took both kids to get lunch while I did the disassembly. It took about 3 hours to do all 3 bikes, but I got it finished and then got in line to checkin to the hotel.

By this time it was close enough to official checkin time that they didn't try to make me pay for an early checkin. I put all the rest of the bags into the rooms and we went out to get some more food for me. We then had to buy a replacement strap for the strap that had broken on one of the Trico iron cases. We still had time after that so we went back downtown and visited the official Lindt store. There, we bought almost 10kg of chocolate. Downtown Sendlinger Tor's subway had changed dramtically since I last visited, and now had Indian and Chinese food, all of reasonable quality --- Munich was becoming quite cosmopolitant!

Returning back to the hotel, we went swimming for about 15 minutes because the kids weren't allowed after 6:00pm. Then we bought dinner and breakfast for the next day and ate it. Mark texted me around 9:00pm that he'd landed in Munich from his trip to Ireland but it was late and we figured we'd meet up at some point back in California anyway.

The next morning, we leisurely took our bikes and carryon lugguage to the United checkin counter and checked it in. The flight was very full so we could checkin 2 of our rolling luggage as checked bags so that we could exceed the weight limit given all the chocolate we bought. The flight was uneventful and Steve Wang picked is up at the airport and brought us home. Our adventure was over.

Both kids swore that they wouldn't ride for at least 2 weeks after the tour, but Bowen attended just one day of Math summer camp before declaring that even riding up Grossglockner was less boring, so we took him at his word and made him ride instead of attending summer camp.

Looking back at it, we'd had been unusually lucky with weather, with rain coming in at night frequently and only having to ride a couple of days in the rain. We had only one flat tire which was amazing, and no other mechanicals. Indicating how much we'd ridden by the time we got to Pfunds we'd worn out all the power meter batteries. We'd succcessfully stayed high and avoided the worst of the summer heat. Having Otto Sr drove the luggage was instrumental in us accomplishing so much distance, even though I would have been even happier if he'd just chosen to ride with us on a bike the whole time --- he would have had a better experience! We also made several good decisions: using the train to Mittersil instead of staying in Zell Am See and using the bus to Livigno helped save half a day of riding each. 

Needless to say we're all very proud of Bowen for accomplishing this bike tour on his single. It wasn't an easy tour but he persisted!

July 4: Lustenau to Lindau (Germany)

The day started with cloudy skies but dry roads as we rolled the remaining kilometers down to Hard, a small town right on the Bodensee where the bike path deliberately skirts the edge of the lagoons before allowing you to cross the Bregenzer Ach.

Once across that river, the bike path finally allows you to visit the shore of the Bodensee, which we did. From there, I remembered that the bike path went past a playground with a zipline, but there was a detour which bypassed that and dropped us straight onto the path to Bavaria.

At the crossing, we stopped for a quick photo.  Riding across the bridge onto the island of Lindau, we had to start mixing with traffic. I was grateful that we were early as the traffic was light and what traffic there was had to deal with low speed limits and therefore bike friendly.

Das Ludwig was at the outskirts of the pedestrain-only center of town, and we got lucky by arriving while the cleanup crew was still around. The manager showed up and agreed to let us into our rooms early and told us while there was no indoor parking for bikes we could lock our bikes next to the umbrella posts outside the hotel and assured us that it was safe even overnight. This would be unimagineable in San Francisco or nearly any big city in the USA but in Germany it was OK. The worst that could happen was that it could rain on our bikes overnight, but we weren't going to have much riding at all tomorrow.

Having settled into our room by 10:30, we decided to do the touristy things in Lindau island, walking around the harbor, visiting the lighthouse, visiting the lion, eating ice cream, and buying lunch at the supermarket. After that, I looked to see if there was availabe swimming area, and discovered that Google maps didn't think there were any. I would later discover that the park on the West edge of the island had a swimming entry. 

The obvious place on Google maps was Lindenhofbad, which was a bike ride off the island. Xiaoqin was fighting off a virus, so she took the opportunity to rest while Bowen, Boen and I rode our bikes over to Linderhofbad. The location was actually very nice but when we got there the kids declined to swim, and there was no paddleboard rental to be had. I wasn't going visit the Bodensee and not swim, so I did a swim without the kids anyway. A swan went by me as I swam for 20 minutes in the open water.

We rode back to Lindau and in the supermarket found some snacks, including sweets that were actually labelled as Bon-Bons. We then met up with Xiaoqin and walked around town before having dinner at a fancy restaurant I'd picked out and made a reservation at. I thought we would actually stay out late and enjoy the sunset but a short walk after dinner to the West edge of the island and listening to a concert for one song and eveyrone was tired.

I looked at the train schedules and decided we should go for the 8:15 train, and having folks get up early to catch a train was not a bad idea so we decided to go back to the hotel and turn in for the night.

July 3: Lenzerheide to Lustenau

The forecast was for rain today, but of course the weather in the morning looked fantastic. After a very full breakfast in which we had custom omelets in addition to the buffet specialties, we headed up to Lenzerheide pass which descecnded rapidly through Churwalden before hitting a bunch of construction, which we had encountered last year coming up from Chur. That time, the construction forced a detour through unusually steep alternates, but this time, at least the parts of the road that weren't under construction was super smooth and made for a very fast descent, granting us a max speed of 46mph.

Past the construction, we descended down the main road towards Chur rather than use the bike path. At downhill speeds the bike is at least as fast as a car and there's no reason to subject your brakes to the twisty bike path. In Chur proper, we followed signs to the train station and from there picked up Swiss Mobility route 2.

The route doesn't go directly along the river, but instead detours to Landquart where we had ridden through on the way to Davos in 2022.Here, the bike path actually goes up hill a bit before descending into Landquart where our luck finally ran out and a big storm blew through, forcing us to take shelter at the Migros in town where we had stopped in 2022 to have lunch. It was too early for lunch, but the storm subsided in a bit and we went on as soon as it became a drizzle.

From Landquart the route becomes easy as you get a dirt road next to the Rhine river that turns into an asphalted bike path near Sargans. From here, you're within an hour of Liechtenstein, and indeed we soon ran into a school trip. Boen and I rode ahead of them as soon as we could, since some of the kids were quite squirrely. They gaped at the tandem as we rode by.

We hadn't quite reach the head of the school trip when they took a turn right onto a bridge right across the Rhine. I surmised that this must have been the Liechtenstein border bridge, so we waited until Bowen caught up. We then crossed the border together and tailed the school group for a bit until Bowwen and Boen got hungry. leaving Liechtenstein behind near Haag, we crossed another bridge back into Switzerland to visit the huge COOP at Haag, where we could buy hot food and Boen got his supermarket ice cream. By this time the sun had come out and we could shed our rain jackets.

After lunch we tried riding on the Swiss bike path again, but the problem was that it was next to the very loud freeway, which drove us back across the border again at the next bridge, this time into Austria. I realized that we were making very good time because the storm had changed the characteristic headwind from the Bodensee up towards Chur into a tailwind at times, making this trip much easier than I had experienced in the past.

In Meningen we found the first zipline playground that we had seen today, and the kids took several runs on it while the adults looked for lodging. I looked for lodging in Hard and Bregenz, but they were surprisingly expensive and there was actually not that much availability. Lustenau, however, had plenty of availability, and was fairly cheap, including an apartment that had a washing machine ensuite, the savior of all dads on bicycle tours. Lustenau would also fulfill Boen's request do a metric century, so we booked it.

The rest of the ride was fairly unremarkable, though once again the weather started to rain as we got into Lustenau. We ended right at the apartment we had booked just as a storm came down again. I realized at this point that the SIM cards I had bought Bowen and Boen were no longer connecting to voice, despite the claim of unlimited calling inside Europe for 30 days, so I called using my phone and managed to get us the code to open the apartment and park the bikes into the bike locker. I got out our bottle of wax and rewaxed all the chains before moving up stairs to take inventory.

The house cleaners showed up and setup the kid's beds, and I discovered that the apartment was well equipped enough for coffee and even shampoo and soap, so all we needed to do was buy dinner and breakfast at the local supermarket.

We walked to the supermarket, dodging the raindrops and then came back to take showers, make dinner, do laundry, and eat. The after dinner walk was drizzly but by the time we got back tot he apartment things had cleared up a bit again. At least with the recent rains it wasn't going to be too hot to sleep.

Review: Flow Control Filter for Aeropress

 The aeropress is still my favorite coffee maker. Rather than use the "inverted" method, I always use the filter upright, but immediately pop the syringe onto the top after filling the barrel with coffee. By doing so, you still get some leaks coming off the bottom of the aeropress, but it's limited to just a minute or so. Then after an appropriate brewing time I push the syring all the way to the bottom.

The problem with this is if you are pressing into a small capacity cup, you may over-estimate the amount of water needed and then you end up overflowing the cup. Aeropress recently introduced the Flow Control Filter, which solves that problem. There is absolutely no drip whatseover when you pour water into the barrel. However, when you press down on the syringe it immediately opens up the valve and you get standard flow.

I didn't expect this to change the flavor of my brew but it does. It's a much stronger brew now, and I have to adjust how much time I leave the coffee brewing as a result. This results in much shorter brew time. The filter is expensive but it's multi-use and  looks so sturdy it ought to outlast the standard brewer basket.

Recommended.

July 2: Bergun to Lenzerheide

Once again, we had another beautiful morning to start our ride down the rest of the Albula pass. The descent was cool enough that we had jackets on, but once in Alvaneu, the road started turning up and down as it went through the small villagers of Surava before a decisive climb up to Tiefencastel. We shed our jackets in Surava, and by the time we started the climb up towards Lantsch it was warm in the full sun. 

Fortunately, while the traffic was briefly bad along highway 3 from the Julier pass, most of the traffic was headed towards Davos, so we were spared most of the traffic once we made the turnoff towards Lenzerheide.

On the way up the road, we saw a landslide come down the mountain. That was remarkable. We made Lenzerheide proper by 11:00am. While waiting for Bowen I sported the Hotel Seehof Valbella which had a good offering on booking. Given that they had a lot of room we were in no hurry, but ate at a SPAR off the main road before riding down past the lake to the Hotel Seehof. We could have kept going to ride down to Chur, but that would have guaranteed a very hot rest of the day. This was our last chance to stay high (Lenzerheide was at 1473m) and enjoy the cool weather before heading towards Lindau.

There, we showed the booking.com offering to the receptionist, who called her manager who immediately said: "Of course. We give them a discount for not using booking.com and showing up in person instead so we don't pay commission!" Our room was actually ready for us by the time we unloaded the bike and parked the bikes. We asked about the half pension but it seemed really expensive so we decided we would order a la carte instead.

Xiaoqin was pretty tired, so she opted to enjoy the beautiful hotel room while the kids and I walked to the Lenzerheide cable car. Lenzerheide is pretty famous for its bike kingdom, where it has a downhill lift assisted mountain bike course. The bike rental was no worse than comparable places in Canada, but Bowen opted not to do it because he didn't want to put on body armor. Instead, we took the cable car up and hiked back down, with a disappointment because the waterfall trail was actually closed. What I saw of the mountain bike park, however, looked impressive. The berms were well groomed and people in general looked like they were having fun.

When we got back to the lake we visited the watersport rental and rented two paddleboards, one for me, and one for the kids, and we made full use of the half hour rentals before returning it and hiking back to the hotel.

One at the hotel, we took showers and did laundry, before heading out to see if there were alternative places to eat. The supermarket didn't seem to have anything that was appealing, so we walked back to the hotel and ate off the (expensive) a la carte menu. The food was good, though perhaps not so good that it justified the high prices.

After dinner, rain came in and together with the shining sun, gave us an amazing lightshow, with rainbows and double rainbows in combination with an evening alpenglow. We congratulated ourselves for having the good luck to stay here. Looking at the forecast, the next few days were supposed to rain but we were also going to be low where the cool temperatures might be welcome.

Boen looked at the elevation profile and decided that tomorrow would be a good day to do a full metric century. He actually spent 15 minutes talking Bowen into it!