June 8th: Flumet to Bourg St Maurice

 Waking up to a sunny day, we showed up to breakfast 5 minutes late. Despite that, it was clear that most items weren’t ready. The owner showed up a little later, frantically saying that everything would be ready soon. Either Arturo, Stephan, or Mark would tell me later that he’d just bought the hotel and hadn’t gotten the hang of everything yet.

When the breakfast was ready it was decent, and we ate our fill to prepare for our 2000m day. The climb up Sassies switched back frequently but unlike Columbiere was never super steep. The real climb would be up the Roseland in the afternoon. The descent was fast and at the bottom it was warm. When we got to Beaufort it was very warm. We got fruit, cold drinks, and bread at the supermarket and then ice cream.

Thus fortified, we started the climb up the Cormet de Roseland, our first 2000m high pass of the trip. A steady 8% grade, once we got into the forest it was warm but the trees shielded us from the sun’s burning rays. 

Plodding along, we saw a tall waterfall. The thing about climbing in the Alps is that whenever you see a waterfall, you know that you have to climb above it eventually if it’s anywhere near the road. In this case, once we were above the waterfall, we almost were at the Roseland lake just before the summit. Xiaoqin joined us there, and we rode up the pass together. Stephan had already gone ahead with his superior power to weight ratio. She had more energy than we did, so took a lot of pictures. At the summit we regrouped, got a pass photo, put on our jackets and began to descend. By this time we started to feel the occasional rain drops. Fortunately, we would stay ahead of the rain this time.

The top part of Cormet Roseland was composed of long straightaway segments and the tandem showed off its top end speed before the chain of switchbacks slowed us down and allowed Stephan to catch and then over-take us. By the time we got to the Bourg St. Maurice city limit sign it was warm and we stopped to take off our jackets and start looking at lodging.

It being a Monday, there was plenty of availability, and we in the end decided on riding to Base Camp Lodge to negotiate in person, since it looked intriguing and had dining options as well as an onsite washing machine. Getting there turned out to be a climb on top of already tired legs, but we managed it. Once there, we got rooms and I discovered a free EV charger provided we made a reservation with the hotel. The “reservation system” turned out to be the receptionist writing down on a piece of paper that we’d taken one of those spaces. When Xiaoqin arrived we parked the car in the spot and plugged it in without fuss or messing around with payment options, which was great.

By the time it was dinner time, rain had started in earnest, but we were indoors and I’d discovered the secret elevator to the restaurant that did not require that we walk outside. The meals were good, and the laundry machine while it required coins came with detergent. We got laundry done while having dinner, and after dinner the rain even let up sufficiently for us to take a walk.

There was no question that we needed a rest day. The question was whether to take a rest day here in Bourg St. Maurice or to take it in Le Lechere and commit to riding Col de la Madeline. With the rain forecast, we decided that it was a fool’s errand to wait until July 12^th for Col D’Iseran to open. I pointed out that there was Hotel Radiana in Le Lechere which was a SPA hotel. Arturo pointed out that their rules precluded Boen from using the hot springs.  There was a town swimming pool, however, and he found a well rated hotel (La Cabriere) with good food. We’d take a transfer day the next day, and another rest day to avoid the rain and also give Xiaoqin a chance to ride.