Breakfast at the hotel was surprisingly good despite my low
expectations. The food was plentiful and of reasonable quality. We did not see
any other cyclists, probably because we got to breakfast late. By the time we
checked out it was already 8:45, and we immediately descended down to the
intersection where the route said to turn off the road to Aigle. This quickly
led to another road with a construction sign, and then a “no entry” barrier
which we proceeded to ignore on the basis that it was a weekend day and the
construction crew was likely to be off. I have great faith in the European work
ethic.

Indeed, at one point we had to walk around some
construction, but we soon found other cyclists going our way as well as the
other way, indicating that the construction was fairly short and that we’d get
to descend more soon enough. Indeed, the descent to Ormont-Dessus soon took
over and we had an easy descent. From the center of town, Mark would start his
climb to Col du Pillon while we rode up the Col de la Croix pass. There was a
cable car in town, but it wasn’t running
yet this early in the morning.
Col de la Croix is a minor pass, mostly wooded and while
there was traffic on a Sunday we were still early enough that it didn’t bother
us at all. The road was a steady 7.4% grade, and being relatively fresh we were
both somewhat surprised when we reached the summit. “That’s all?” asked Boen.
“Yup!” We ate the last of our cycling food, took pass photos, and hiked a trail
to see a view of Mont Blanc that was underwhelming.

A bus took off from the summit and went down the hill. We
gave it a few minutes before we noticed that the traffic was getting denser, so
decided to descend. It didn’t take long before we caught up with the bus. The
danger of doing that on a tandem is that the bus forces you to ride the brakes
instead of letting the tandem roll, but fortunately at that point we were in
Villars-Sur-Ollon and the bus had to stop. We overtook the bus and then let the
tandem rip. From Villars to Ollon is a series of switch backs and corners. The
traffic was dense but since we were moving at least as fast as car traffic were
weren’t disturbed.

In Ollon, the route took us towards Aigle, where we found a
café that was open and ate lunch. After lunch, we rode across the Rhone and
entered the bike path. The bike path would have groups of cyclists in
pacelines, riding in the opposite direction from us, occasionally with
motorcycle escorts! Even more interestingly, at one point on the bike path we
saw that the bike path went past the UCI World Cycling center! The event turned
out to be the Portes
du Soleil Cyclosportive.
Once the bike path hit the coast of Lake Geneva, the bike
path disappeared and we ended up on the main road. The road was still pretty,
and there was a bike lane all the way until the French border at
Saint-Gingolph, where we stopped for a photo only to find that Mark had caught
up to us and was right behind us! We all took pictures together, and descended
down to the beach to celebrate before climbing back up to the main road and
then found the dedicated bike path leading out of the city.

The bike path took us away from the main road and went up
and down granting us long distance views of the lake. Lake Geneva is big enough
that you couldn’t see the other side when you’re standing on the coast, so it
felt almost like being next to an Ocean. The bike path dumped us back onto the
main road at Locum, where we had to share the road with relentless traffic. I
could see why the tourism agencies didn’t want inexperienced riding this road,
but if you’ve been cycling in California you deal with traffic like this all
the time. Furthermore, we knew that this traffic had a limit. We had a left
turn coming up in 3km.

When the bike
computer beeped and signaled the turn, however, I saw that the road had a sign
that said: “No left turn.” Well, I didn’t care. We signaled to traffic, waited
for a break, and zipped across onto Route du Champ Poirier, which immediately
started climbing. The day was warm and we were in the sun, but the traffic
relief was immediate. There were no cars in either direction and we could use
the width of the road to zig zag up the hill.

Rather than a coaset highway, this road took us through
little towns that were just offset from the coast and on a ridgeline, before
dropping us off at Evian-les-Bains, where of course we had to stop at the Source Cachat, the spring
fed fountain that’s the bottled source of Evian water! “This tastes just like
ordinary water,” said Boen, after he’d had a taste. The water was cool, it
tasted good, but yeah, it’s amazing the power of marketing to get people to buy
bottled water that’s just ordinary. Xiaoqin and Bowen parked nearby and showed
up in time to see a guy carry a cart full of glass bottles and just fill every
bottle up while folks lined up behind him.

When it came time to leave we rode down to the lake shore
highway, and I noticed a big arch with a “Departee” sign on it! Without knowing
it, we had ridden through what would be the start line of the Stage 16 time
trial of the 2026 Tour de France! We then started noticing Tour de France
pennants and sign posts all over the town. If we had known about this we might
have downloaded the route and ridden the 26.1km time trial course from Evian to
Thonon, but it was already warm and we had already done one pass (or in the
case of Mark, two passes!) for the day, so we opted instead to ride the
official bike path to Thonon-les-Bains, which took us past the Evian factory
before heading back to the coast and then climbing to the center of town where
we were staying at the Hotel
Thonon Le Comte Rouge.

The hotel looked like a castle on booking.com, but in
reality is was just a small hotel run by an Indian family. They happily parked
us inside the lobby, gave us the room keys, and when we asked where to park
they told us that the Place des Arts parking lot had overnight parking for 5
Euros a day, and had charging stations to boot. After confirming that the rooms
had AC that could be turned on, I walked down to the parking lot and to my
surprise, the lot manager confirmed that yes, it was only 5 Euros per night,
and the charging stations could be occupied even when the car had finished charging, so there was no need to move the car in the
middle of the night!

When Bowen and Xiaoqin arrived, we moved the luggage up to
the apartments and I drove the car down (there were 6 charging spots, only one
of which was taken), and parked the car and plugged it in. Other than the free
charging in Bourg St Maurice, this was the cheapest charging for the entire
trip, and we needed it too, because the rental contract stipulated that we were
to return the car with at least 75% charge.
After we were all showered, we went out to dinner—once at Pizza Fresca, where we
didn’t actually order Pizza, and once at Ni Hao Sushi, where Boen
insisted on eating despite us telling him that with a name like that it was
going to be run by Chinese, not Japanese. We didn’t need to do laundry that
day, so we could buy ice cream and walk down to Funiculair Amont, which had
beautiful views of Lake Geneva from high up. Thonon, being the finish line of
the same time trial that was going to start in Evian, was as full of Tour de
France decorations pennants and so on
To our surprise, the Funicular was free, so we walked down
the path to the lake shore, which was a much happening place than downtown
itself. It got a lake breeze which was cooler, and all the restaurants here
were much busier than the ones near downtown. Of course, it also looked like it
would take much longer to get service or even a single ice cream as well.
After exploring the coast line, we took the Funicular back
up and walked back to the hotel. The next day was an easy ride back to our
Geneva airport hotel—only 20 miles via the direct route, though Xiaoqin and I
discussed meeting up in Yvoire to see one of the prettier towns on Lake Geneva.
Mark didn’t have 3 bikes to pack and a rental car to return, so he was going to
a ride up in the hills above Geneva before riding back to his hotel.