It was sunny when we had breakfast in the morning. Because
of the rain, the staff had moved all our bikes into the hotel’s cellar from the
furnace room, since they actually had to run the furnace for some of the cooler
parts of the hotel. We loaded up the car with our luggage, said goodbye to
everyone who was around, and checked out.
Mark was inspired to ride back to the start of Rosenlaui
valley, but Boen was having none of that. We rode up to Schwarzwaldalp, took
off our jackets, and proceeded to climb. 2 years prior, we’d almost immediately
hit the steep section which forced us to walk. Without a load, however, this
wasn’t a problem and we easily kept riding up at a slow enough pace that Mark
caught us before long.
Unfortunately, about a mile from the top we got a flat tire.
I found a thorn in the rear tire, removed it, replaced the inner tube, and kept
going. 500m from the top we flatted again. This time I could find no foreign
matter, and assumed that one of the patches on my replacement tube had failed.
The back tire was looking worn, so I made a note to replace it after we got to
Lauterbrunnen.
At the summit, we stopped for photos, and then proceeded to
descend after putting on our jackets. The post bus was running so every once in
a while we’d have to stop to let the bus through, but it was still cool enough
that I was unworried about our dual pivot calipers failing or causing a tire
blowoff.
Once we got to Grindelwald, we could speed up since now
there was a lane in each direction. In the center of town, we stopped at the
playground to refill our water bottles, which had been depleted on the climb.
From there, we took the car highway all the way down to Zweilutschinen, where
instead of turning left onto the main road, we took the signed bike path
towards Lauterbrunnen.

It didn’t take long, however, for that signed bike path to
degenerate into a dirt road and then into a single track. In retrospect, what
we should have done was to leave the bike path just before the road steepened. The
traffic wasn’t that bad, and it would have saved us some tight corners and
tandem unfriendly bike tunnels. Regardless, we made it to Lauterbrunnen by
11:00am, where Xiaoqin and Bowen had already parked the car. I thought we were
too early to checkin, so I changed in the parking lot only to be surprised by
the owner. The AirBnB manager then texted me to tell me that we could indeed
move in, so we did! We hadn’t done laundry for the 3 days we were at Rosenlaui,
so that was the first order of business—the AirBnB had a washing machine that
also did drying, and the hostess quickly supplied us with detergent pods!

We ate a quick lunch from various leftover foods. I was down
to the spare tube Stephan had given me prior to his departure from the tour
(boy did that seem like a long time ago!), so we walked down to the local bike
shop and bought a new tube. Surprisingly enough they didn’t have any cycling
food that was worth buying.
Boen was striking against doing more hiking after having
already climbed half of Grosse Scheidegg, so he opted to stay in the AirBnB
while Mark, Xiaoqin, Bowen and I took the train from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen.
Wengen’s supermarket was much bigger than Lauterbrunnen, so we bought ice cream
there and then walked over to the Mannlichen cable car to buy one way tickets
up to Mannlichen to do the Royal Walk.
The Royal Walk was built and promoted in 2015, and the last
time I was up at Mannlichen was 2011, just a few months before Bowen was born.
That meant it was my first time on the Royal Walk, which was promoted through
posters, pamphlets, etc. Whatever else you can say about the Swiss, they know
how to do marketing for their hiking trails, no matter how short it is.

To say that it was a hiking trail was perhaps an
overstatement. Short of paving it, there was no way to make it any tamer. The
presence of the cable car also made it incredibly accessible and crowded,
though given the width of the trail and panorama the area was superbly
engineered to handle the crowds, with lots of stations to engage kids. Of
course, the views were superb, this being a clear and sunny day. It was a short
walk and we were acclimated to altitude, so making it to the viewpoint was no
big deal. The views from the royal walk are very similar to those from the top
of Grosse Scheidegg: the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau as well as Kleine
Scheidegg. We could see Grosse Scheidegg as well Thunersee off in the instance,
though Interlaken was occluded by the preceding ridges. My eyes couldn’t make
out Schynnige Platte even though in theory I should have been able to see it.

We had our fill of the scenery, taking our time, and then
walked past the Mannlichen cable car station to see the other side of the ridge
before heading for the hiking trail that would take us down to Wengen. I’d only
ever climbed this trail so was worried that it would be a tough descent.
Fortunately, I’d brought hiking sticks from the car, which helps a lot when you
have to do a lot of descending by taking some of the load off your knees onto
your shoulders.

The hiking trail is a series of switchbacks and turns around
the various avalanche protection devices that are essential to keeping Wengen
from being buried in snow in winter by avalanches. Once in a while, there will
be a placard or information notice board telling you how the avalanche
protection worked, how much stress each type can stand (wooden vs steel vs just
planting trees) and how they interact with the ecosystem. All this served to
distract us from how completely exposed the trail was. Good thing we were all
wearing sunscreen!
When we got down into the treeline the vitamin D exposure
was replaced with more bugs. There was a family that was ahead of us, and at
one point they stopped and were looking through binoculars. We would later
figure out that they were looking at a woodpecker. It’s noteworthy that
European forests are so devoid of wildlife that woodpeckers are remarkable—you
certainly don’t hear them as often as in the Redwood forests of California.

By the time we arrived at Wengen, my knees weren’t too happy
and it was 5:00pm. There was no question that we were going to take the train
back down to Lauterbrunnen rather than walk another hour. The mistake we made
was not using the time waiting for the next train to buy groceries for dinner.
When we got off the train in Lauterbrunnen and visited the Co-Op it was this
huge crowd. They were running out of stuff and what was left wasn’t in great
condition. We nevertheless managed to buy enough for both dinner and breakfast,
and walked back to the AirBnB where Boen was still waiting for us.

After dinner, instead of an after dinner walk, I did an
after dinner bike tire swap. I took out our spare Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass tire,
installed it on the front, and moved the front tire to the back. I then folded
up the back tire and packed it back into the spares bag. “I’m highly amused by
an engineering director trying to save a tire that probably has less than 100
miles on it!” said Mark. “Well, it might only last 100 miles more on the
tandem, but if I put it on the single I could probably get at least 500 miles
on it!” was my retort.
The shower felt great, and we got the AirBnB hostess to help
us figure out how to use the dryer (they had apparently never had anyone ask to
use it before). With that, we had a full set of clean clothes and could do more
hiking tomorrow!
We also had to strategize about our return to Geneva. I had
originally booked a mobile home on AirBnB on top of Juan pass, but noticed that
while lodging was sparse and expensive on the Swiss side of the border (which
also had never heard of air conditioning as a concept), it was cheaper and
plentiful and more importantly had AC on the French side of the lake. A bit of
research noted that the biggest objection to using the French side of Lake
Geneva was a section with lots of traffic right after crossing into France. But
if you were willing to do a little bit of climbing, it was only a 3-4km
section.
The best route to France was not through Juan pass, but
through Col Mosses, a climb I had done in 2003 and forgotten about, but that
meant it wasn’t memorably difficult. There was a hotel on top of Col Mosses,
and it offered free cancellation so I cancelled out Juan pass lodging and
booked it.