A Rosenlaui breakfast buffet is always a delight. You get proper coffee (for whatever reason, Europeans don’t really know how to make coffee the way I like it), fresh baked breads of all sorts, a selection of yogurt (today included Hazelnut yogurt, which I would get 3 bowls of), and then there’s a good selection of meats, cheeses, and fruits to top it off. We ate as though we wouldn’t get lunch.
I got out Xiaoqin’s bike, all prepped for riding, and Mark and her went up the Grosse Scheidegg road. Bowen, Boen and I then walked over to the Rosenlaui Schlutz entrance, but rather than entering the Schlutz, which wasn’t open yet, we walked up the trail that would exit. The trail turned out to be ideally sited for a hot day. The initial section runs next to the Rosenlaui gorge waterfalls, so you got natural cooling from the icy cold water. Even after we split off from the gorge waterfall, we were almost entirely in shadow for the climb, which eventually gave us a great view of the Rosenlaui glacier, which we were told is no longer close enough to touch even if we went for the Dossenhutte (2663m).
We encountered a few hikers, even at this early hour, and as we rose in elevation we saw the Wildgarst, Scwarzhorn, and Tschingel peaks across the valley. In one spot, we could even peek down and through the trees saw Hotel Rosenlaui, looking like a doll’s house from so far away. When we finally got to the Englehornhutte, it was only 10:15am and no one was there, even though we’d just seen some hikers go the other way. Well, the hut was open anyway, so we ordered a couple of quick snacks and a drink before refilling our water bottles from the water fountain and heading on the way.
On the descent, we followed the signs to Kalterbrunnen, passing a dirt parking lot way up there where I recognized the logo for the Englehornhut. “Wow,” said Boen, “They have to hike half an hour to get to their car!” Such is life in the mountains.
At Kalterbrunnen once again Andreas was not there, but they had a hazelnut cake so Boen, Bowen, and I decided to eat there. Bowen couldn’t have the hazelnut cake, so he ordered the Quiche. It was warm enough that I ordered a non alcoholic beer and Boen ordered a Rivella, which had become the default drink for the kids for the rest of the trip.
After that stop, we walked out and headed on the official hiking trail to Rosenlaui, which took us along Rosenlaui creek and then into a shaded section just before bursting out into Rosenlaui valley for the grand view of the two glaciers and the valley. From there it was a short walk to Hotel Rosenlaui, where the kids immediately retreated into their room to play video games (electronic devices are banned in public areas of the hotel), and I proceeded to process photos before heading down for ice cream and to wait for Xiaoqin and Mark, who had successfully started climbing the Grosse Scheidegg from Meiringen.
Mark was the first to arrive, and when he told me about the ride up I immediately knew that they’d taken the mountain bike path up instead of the car road. The mountain bike path is a lot steeper, but has the benefit that it doesn’t have car traffic and no chance of running into the post bus until it joins the Grosse Scheidegg road just before the Reichenbach Falls upper trailhead.
Then he dropped the bombshell: “You know the waterfall you can walk behind, the Giessbach Fall?” he said as I nodded. For me, it was always one of the highlights of the classic Rosenlaui loop. “There’s a fancy hotel just below it, The Grandhotel Giessbach. I’ve stayed there before with my sisters!” “Oh, that means you’ve walked behind that waterfall before?!” “We must have, since we probably didn’t spend all our time in the room. But I honestly don’t remember.” Xiaoqin showed up and ordered an ice cream as well, and we chatted about the ride. I told them that Isetwald had become a major tourist attraction because of a Korean drama, which was why it’s now so crowded over there.
After that, I asked if anyone else wanted to see Rosenlaui
Gorge, since it was still open and we get a discount for being hotel guests.
I’d done it plenty of time but it never got old. Mark and Bowen both
volunteered so we went and paid the gorge a visit. There are two gorges in this
area, the Aare gorge and the Rosenlaui gorge, but by far the better one was the
Rosenlaui one. It’s wilder, more natural, and always had plenty of water. It’s
a bit of a duplicated hike since we’re coming down the trail we did in the
morning, but it was still worth it.
Tuesdays are traditional Swiss music days at Rosenlaui. There’s a dinner reception at 6:30pm, where you get appetizers, and then at 7:00pm, you adjourn to the dining hall. There, the Swiss band performs music. One song, then the soup, then another song, the salad, and so forth. The kids were not impressed, and could barely keep themselves from laughing. There was a moment of excitement when one of the singers fainted during the song and had to be revived and sat down. “Wow,” said I in a moment of naivete, “He over-strained himself singing and fainted?” “More like he drank himself into a stupor,” declared Mark. “Those guys have been drinking non stop since the reception!”
It had started raining as predicted, so we didn’t go for an after dinner walk. In fact, it was raining so much that we were going to do a rain plan for the next day, using the car to do touristy things and giving everyone a break.






















































