Bicycle technology has evolved significantly since I built my custom touring bike in 2008. Back then, I used medium-reach caliper brakes (57mm) and a triple chainring (24x39x50) with a 9-speed 11-34 cassette. These brakes limited tire clearance to 35mm with fenders. After Avocet closed, quality tires wider than 28mm were scarce, so I rarely exceeded 25mm.
When spec'ing a custom Lynskey for my friend Arturo, we modeled it after the Rivendell Roadeo. By then, wide-range doubles with 10-speed cassettes were available. We used SRAM integrated brake levers paired with a mountain bike drivetrain (24x40 chainring and 11-34 cassette). This setup worked because SRAM road and mountain components shared the same cable pull — a compatibility Shimano still resists. Despite a rear-brake-bridge height error — which Lynskey fixed after Arturo returned the frame — the setup proved effective for touring.
By the time I acquired my Co-Motion Periscope, 10-speed 11-36 cassettes were standard. Later, when rebuilding my touring frame, I adopted a 1x drivetrain using a Shimano M5100 cassette and Microshift friction shifters to bypass Shimano's indexing incompatibilities. Removing the front derailleur proved so successful that I have omitted it from every family bike build since.
After retrofitting my touring bike to wireless AXS, I was convinced enough by the ergonomics — and the reliability under load — to start designing a frame around the new drivetrain. Note that if you don’t like having electronics on your bike, SRAM now makes a cable-operated T-type derailleur, which eliminates the need for batteries, and yes, someone has experimented with friction-shifting it!
My touring priorities are reliability, robustness, and light weight. Since my CPAP machine requires nightly power, I always have access to electricity, making electronic shifting a viable upgrade. SRAM's T-type transmissions are particularly tough; the derailleur mounts directly to the thru-axle, eliminating fragile hangers. Individual parts can be replaced if damaged. I’ve long been willing to pay in additional weight in exchange for a more robust drivetrain, and the T-type compromise is well within what I’m willing to accept (it's not clear to me that the T-type dropouts would cause the frame to be heavier than one built for a derailluer hanger).
I remain skeptical of disc brakes. They are heavy, prone to squealing, and difficult to service in the field. Many claim they work better in the rain, but with Kool-Stop Salmon brake pads, I’ve never had any trouble stopping in the rain. Others have argued that rims wear quickly in the rain and wet, but in many years of touring I have yet to wear out a single rim while touring — the reality is that if you’re touring for scenery when it rains your vision is usually too compromised by the precipitation to see much scenery anyway! The reinforcement required for disc forces also adds weight and stiffness to the frame, compromising handling. For example, Ritchey's rim-brake Road Logic frame is 230g lighter than its disc counterpart, before rotors and hydraulics. Given that I'm 140 pounds (and at my heaviest was 155 pounds), the additional stopping power of discs is wasted on me. Years of tandem touring on dual-pivot calipers have also strengthened my grip — enough to skid both wheels in an emergency stop.
My ideal touring bike would combine a T-type transmission with rim brakes. The 142mm thru-axle spacing matches QR 135mm, allowing a stronger wheel with equalized spoke tension provided the hub was not built to support disc brakes. White Industries can custom-build the rim-brake-only-designed MI5 hubs to this spec. Paired with a lighter custom frame built for Tektro 559 calipers, this would clear 42-45mm tires without the weight and stiffness penalties of disc mounts.
A matching quick-release front fork designed for the same 559 brakes would complete the chassis. Yes, it would look odd with a QR front wheel and a T-type thru-axle rear wheel, but the benefits of the stronger wheel and T-type robustness are worth it.
There is one niggle with the T-type chainline, which is designed for 55mm chainlines. However, you can adapt SRAM road-type cranks with 3rd party chainrings to get a 47.5mm chainline which will work with T-type transmissions. Alternatively, a Shimano GRX crank would also work, giving you a 46.9mm chainline, which is just short of the 47.5mm requirement the SRAM specifies for a 142mm thru-axle bike.
The result is a sport-tourer with the robustness of a T-type transmission, the precision of AXS shifting, and the simple maintenance of dual-pivot caliper brakes. This design offers massive tire clearance and field-serviceability without the fragility of traditional derailleur hangers. The hard part is finding someone willing to make it: pairing a T-type dropout with rim brakes is an unusual ask, and tradition-minded builders tend to push back against mixing standards this way. With Paragon Machine Works out of business it might even be difficult to source the frame parts necessary to make this frame. And there is no danger that any mainstream manufacturer (or even custom bike maker) would even consider making a production bike out of this design.
I’m probably not going to order or build such a bike myself for some time. I still love my custom built Strong frame, and it can clear all the tires I need it to clear for the road (35-38mm). But if I should crack my frame, decide to take a gravel-oriented tour or my sons start to get tall enough to steal my backup Roadini, I would start shopping for a custom builder, and this is the article I’ve written to guide him or her as to my thinking.