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Sunday, September 26, 2010

Day 5: Waterton Lakes National Park

I woke up in the morning feeling great: it's amazing how nice you can feel after a shower after having camped out in primitive camp sites for 3 days. I drove out of Waterton Lakes to an area I had scouted out the day before while driving into the park: Maskinonge Lake. When I arrived, there was already another photographer there. I tried different positions, close to the water and further from the water, but with the wind, it was actually difficult to get good shots without the grasses moving and therefore blurring. Mike would deliberately set up the ISO rating on his camera to ISO 400, but as someone used to shooting Fuji Velvia 50 I always try exhaust all alternatives before dialing up the ISO.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

After the shoot, I drove back to Waterton Lakes, pausing to get in a shot of an Elk by the road side eating breakfast. I had plenty of time to make and eat breakfast at the campground before heading over to the village marina to purchase a ticket for the Crypt Lake hike.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

The hike was time constrained, since between the drop off at approximately 10:30am and the pick up at 5:30pm, we had to complete the hike, which was estimated at 6 hours. Since that was the case, I elected to leave the heavy equipment behind and just carry the point and shoot, hiking sticks, a couple of sandwiches, an apple, a hat, and first aid kit. The day had gotten only more windy, with spray coming off the bow of the ferry, "Miss Waterton", creating a nice rainbow for me to look at during the trip.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The pilot even missed the landing dock 3 times before nailing it, which cannot be usual for someone who did this trip every day. I would only get a good idea as to how much wind was in store for me that day later. After unloading everyone, "Miss Waterton" took off, and I went to look at the trail head while the majority of the hikers took off at speed.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

Just as I got going, a couple behind me asked how far the hike was, and I replied, "6 hours, but it can't possibly be that long, since if they under-estimate it folks would probably complain." And that was how I ended up hiking the Crypt Lake trail with Hanna Kubas and Greg.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

Both of them were swimmers with the University of Calgary, which is apparently a hot spot for Canadian swimming. Greg had graduated and was now training to go to the Olympics in 2012 (yes, I was hiking with a professional athlete!). Hanna was in her last year of school. I really enjoyed hiking with them, since the world of competitive swimming was never one I had ever encountered. The amount of training seemed to be intense, and the two of them enjoyed talking about how specialized swimmers were.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The walk rapidly took us through the forest on a gentle grade, and then steepened as we entered the exposed area. We got great views of waterfalls, negotiated a couple of stream crossings, and then finally way up high, saw the ladder and tunnel in front of us.


From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The ladder was fairly short (quite a bit shorter than the one found on the Steep Ravine trail, for instance), but it was also quite narrow. The tunnel was a bit of a pain. While I did not need to get on your hands and knees, it was short enough that stooping wasn't enough, so a sort of duck walk was necessary to keep my backpack from scraping.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

After emerging from the tunnel, we stepped down a bit and walked right into the cabled-section of the trail, where cables were provided so you could retain your footing while stepping on the narrow trail. Since it was dry the cables were not strictly necessary, but I could see how they would be very useful when the trail was wet.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

After that, a short trail led us to the Crypt Lake itself, where we sat for lunch. I was very amused that everyone else had brought along a subway sandwich. I was clearly not Canadian enough to know that subway sandwiches are the proper meal for the Crypt Lake hike.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

Sitting down made us very cold, and soon Hanna was complaining about how cold her hands were. Her dipping her hands into the lake to feel the water temperature probably had something to do with it. I loaned her my gloves, amused that I was lending clothing to a Canadian swimmer! To warm up we walked around the lake, which was a typical alpine tarn, with mostly scree and stones up the sides except for the area near the feeder stream, which was lush and green.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

We then went back to the trail junction and followed the other trail to the falls, which we had spied from far below. The falls were large, and the spray, coupled with the sound of the wind and the water falling felt quite refreshing.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The descent along the cables proved to be tougher than the climb, but the tunnel for whatever reason felt a lot easier this time. While hiking down this out and back trail, however, we saw an unusual phenomenon: the Chinook winds were so strong that one of the waterfalls was being blown up instead of down! I shot a video, wishing that I actually had had a S95 so I could get it in HD.


On the way down, we took a detour to explore the Hell Roaring Falls, which was a nice side trip. We ended the hike with half an hour to wait for the return shuttle, happy for the unique experience this hike had brought us.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

Once back on the mainland, I had decided that I wanted to go to Cardston to eat (and possibly stay) at the Cobblestone Manor, a restaurant with food so great that even though my family and I had already eaten a meal when we visited, we kept ordering food because it was so good! As I drove on the road to Cardston, however, I kept finding beautiful scenes to look at, which slowed me down quite a bit.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The kicker was the crepuscular beams right outside the town of Mountain View (yes, Mountain View Canada actually has a view of the rockies). I shot quite a few pictures there, congratulating myself for being lucky enough to be at the right place at the right time (with an ND grad. filter, of course).

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

Arriving at Cardston, however, I was disappointed to find that winter hours were in place: the restaurant was closed Sunday and Monday! The local hotels and restaurants were all quite expensive ($80/night), so I drove back to the Waterton Lakes park, watching the scenery around me with an eye to finding a different location to shoot the sunrise the next day. I didn't find any restaurants that looked good, but the Weiners of Waterton Lakes caught my eye, and I walked in to find myself chatting with the co-founder, Matt.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The place had been opened only this year, and it was apparently going gangbusters. "I could have gotten an office job, but being here in the park is far more appealing," said Matt. We had a nice chat, and I enjoyed both the dog and the sweet potato fries. I had a shower and went to bed, feeling that meeting Matt and chatting with him had made up for the disappointment of the Cobblestone Manor being closed.

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Saturday, September 25, 2010

Day 4: Many Glacier to Waterton Lakes National Park

We woke up at 6:00am, prepared a quick breakfast, and headed back to the hotel in the hopes of capturing the morning colors. The wind was very strong, and it didn't take too long before I realized that without some form of shelter, none of the photos in question would be usable because of the wind buffeting both the camera and tripod. One obvious place was the levy just before the Swiftcurrent lake, which offered a bit of shelter.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

Then I saw another photographer with a giant stroke of genius: this man had his wife drive his minivan before the bridge, and then shot from behind the mini-van's wind shelter. Not being ashamed to borrow someone else's great idea, I shot from behind his mini-van as well as the sun rose from behind the horizon.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

The light changed rapidly, with the scene changing dramatically from minute to minute, to the point where the same picture taken just a few seconds later would be quite different.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

In just 10 minutes or so clouds moving rapidly over us obscured the sun and we immediately lost all the golden light which made photographs so pretty! This pattern would continue for me throughout the rockies, making this two week trip by far some of the most challenging shooting I have ever done. You literally had to move quickly or your opportunities would be lost. The photographer with the mini van left, but not before telling me to hike the bear's hump in Waterton Lakes for a good view of the village.

Mike and I had more breakfast, and then decided to go for a walk together up to Redrock Falls. Mike had recently gotten into shooting HD video on his 7D, and was excited about waterfalls the way I'm excited about rainbows. The hike up was along the continental divide trail, with beautiful autumn leaves and a nice lake, but with the drab lighting very little inspired me.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

Mike, however, having discovered ND grad. filters as a tool the day before had gone crazy with them, and was shooting everything in sight. It helped that he had his laptop with him in the trailer and was therefore in no danger of running out of memory cards. We did reach Redrock Falls, which were a multi-layered set of falls that were quite pretty.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

After our shoot, we returned to the trailer, where Mike powered up the generator and I gave all my batteries one final charge before heading over to Waterton Lakes. Mike could not join me, because he had a gun in his trailer, and therefore would be barred from entering Canada with the trailer. We ate one more meal together, and he mentioned that since I had a 2 whole weeks, I should consider driving over to Banff and Japser.

The drive over to Waterton Lakes was very pretty. Upon entering Waterton Lakes I noted that the Canadian parks charged by the day, and that I was better off buying an annual pass (again) for $66 if I would spend a week or more in the various parks, as Banff and Jasper were about $10/day each! Upon arriving at the visitor's center, I asked about the Crypt Lake hike, which I had first seen a video of 15 years ago. To my relief the water taxi shuttle was still running for the hike, and it would still be a good hike to do. The timing was great as well: the morning service started at 10:00am, and the return was at 5:30pm. That meant that my sunrise and sunset shooting schedule would be uninterrupted, and I would not loose a sunset or sunrise. I was even further pleased to find that Waterton Lake's campground still had shower and water. I was not pleased to find that the wind was forecast to be even stronger the next day! Waterton Lake village had many many tame deer coming through. It would not even be a challenge to approach the deer!
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

I found a campsite, walked around town for a bit, ate an early dinner, and proceeded to climb Bear's Hump with my photo gear. The walk wasn't very long, but it was quite steep. The views at the top was very good, but the wind was even stronger. This led me to find a location where I could wedge myself and my tripod deeply into crevices for better stability, and then I proceeded to shoot. My first subject was the Waterton Lakes hotel:
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors
This was particularly tricky because my ballhead would work loose from the tripod every time I rotated the head. The insecure connection was driving me up the wall, and I resolved to find some loc-tite as soon as I could, but Waterton Lakes did not have any.

My next subject was the village itself. The sun was far from setting, but the mountains meant that the village was already in shadow. This meant that I had no chance of getting alpenglow on the nearby mountains, but with the appropriate use of ND grad. filters, could keep the village in view and the lit up mountains on the opposing side would not be too blown out. The wind whipped up waves in the lake, creating ripple patterns that were high and furious.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

The wind was really unpleasant, and after a few more attempts at some backlit shots of people, I decided that I was wasting my time: by the time the light got really good, the mountains would all be in shadow and I wouldn't have any more good photos. I started the walk down and encountered two women from Cardston who were out on their first hike. They asked for a photo, and said, "Can you make us look skinny?" "You know that the camera can only add weight, right?"
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

I went on down the mountain, got into my car, and drove to see if I could find better views. On a whim, I started down Red Rock Canyon road, which was where my family and I started an ill-fated backpacking trip 15 years ago. There was not any good light to be seen, but there was a traffic jam on the road. I stopped my car and got out of it to see what was going on, and immediately encountered a bear:
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

II was shooting with a 200mm lens, but it was still a bit too close for me. I walked slowly back to my car and proceeded to shoot more photos in the fading light. I would encounter 3 more bears along the road that evening, but the light got really dim and the shooting was no longer any good.

I got in one more shot of the full moon rising over the plains towards the East, and then called it a night.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism


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Friday, September 24, 2010

Day 3: St. Mary's to Many Glacier

The gravel parking space turned out not to be as well hidden as I liked. At 3:00am, I heard an explosion and woke up. Fireworks were going off in the gravel area, and I heard shouts of "USA, USA, USA!" Sitting up from my sleeping bag, I could see that a bunch of folks were setting off bottle rockets and such in the parking lot, and they were indeed quite drunk. Rather than get out of my sleeping bag and drive off elsewhere, which might trigger an ugly reaction from these people, I decided that I could out wait them and that they would eventually run out of fireworks. That took about 90 minutes, after which they drove off and I could sleep again.

I awoke at 6:00am, and then made a phone call to Carl Strong, who had received my broken frame, and agreed to build a new one under warranty. Having settled that matter, I drove back into the park to try to find a sunrise spot. With clouds looming in the west, I decided to stay low and shoot from near the park entrance at St. Mary's Lake.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

After shooting the setting moon for a bit, another photographer drove up and started shooting the same area. After an hour or so of shooting, we met up and had a chat. He invited me over to his trailer in the campground, and I mentioned the fireworks in my parking lot the night before. He felt sorry for me, and said, "Well, I have extra room in my trailer, so if you want to join me at Many Glacier this afternoon you're welcome to sleep over." And that was how I met Mike Peterson.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

On a hunch, I decided to drive further up the road before heading over the Many Glacier. With the higher probability of rain, and the relative early time of day, I was betting that I would find a rainbow somewhere along the road. I stopped at a turnout to shoot a picture of St. Mary's Lake, and lo and behold when I turned around there was a solid rainbow across the road. I quickly ran across the road, set up my tripod, got out my polarizer, and tweaked the camera to show the rainbow off at its strongest.

From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

I got in about 10 shots before the rainbow faded. Noting that it was still raining, I checked the time and saw that it was 10:30am when the rainbow faded. In the hopes of getting dramatic scenery, I drove further up the road to the Goose Island overlook. The clouds there looked dramatic, but the best light was gone, so I took a few pictures and left for Many Glacier.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

I had never been to Many Glacier before, so what I saw along the way was stunning. Amongst other things, I saw a bear climbing high up in the hills, which was neat but it was too far for my 200mm lens to capture. Note to self: next time, bring a 1.4 and 2.0 TC. By the time I got to Mike's trailer in Many Glacier it was past noon, and he was making soup. We at lunch together and then tried to go for a hike up to Iceberg Lake, but didn't get even half a mile down the trail before it started raining. Not wanting to fight mother nature, we went back down the trail, got into my van, and started driving in search of better weather. We had not gotten even past the hotel at Many Glacier before we saw a herd of goats and started chasing them. Mike got out his 100-400/4-5.6L and I got out my puny 200mm/2.8L. I'm not normally a wildlife person, but the animals weren't disturbed by humans and I shot many many photos.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

After the wildlife shoot, we drove out to the main highway and got started up the Chief Mountain Highway towards Canada, and then Mike realized he had forgotten his passport! We turned around, went to his trailer for some tea, and went back to find the sunset. Chief mountain was a big block of monolith rising from the area around it, creating its own weather pattern. Looking at the photos now, I realize that it would have been a far better sunrise spot than a sunset spot, but I never did get a chance to see it in the morning due to weather conditions. Mike knew every spot in the rockies, including many obscure turnouts where a dirt road would lead to a nice photo location, so I felt very lucky to have met him. I in turn showed him how to use his newly acquired ND grad filters.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

We drove around and shot a number of pictures, with a climatic dusk shot of the sky in the area.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

By the time we got back to Mike's trailer, it was 8:30pm, and we made a quick dinner before turning in. Mike's trailer was fully equipped with a flush toilet, power, an inverter and generator so we could charge our batteries, and his laptop. This was a good thing, since after 2 nights without access to a power socket I was starting to drain my batteries. Mike also kindly copied off one of my memory cards and started making DVDs for backup.

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Thursday, September 23, 2010

Day 2: Apgar Creek Campground to St Mary's

To my disappointment the day before, I had been told that Logan pass was closed for the season. Going to the Sun was one of the prettiest highways I had ever been on, and not only did the closure make it unavailable, it also meant that getting to the East side of the park where sunrises would be prettiest would be a long drive. I had decided to drive up as far as I could to get to Avalanche creek to see what I could see. Besides, someone on the plane the day before had told me that Avalanche lake was quite pretty.

I arrived at the Avalanche creek parking lot to find the place empty, and immediately got out my gear to start hiking up along the creek. I moved as quickly as I could, since I hoped to beat the sun to the lake. It turned out I needn't have bothered: Avalanche Lake was deeply fogged in, and all I got was a monochromatic view of the lake.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors


I looked at the scene and decided that sticking around hoping for the sun to poke through with good light was futile, so I turned around and hiked out. As I hiked back down, I ran into a photographer who had just come from East Glacier. He told me that on that side, the road was open all the way to Logan's pass. Even though it was a long drive in terms of distance, it only took him two and a half hours, since most of the roads were rated for 70mph or faster. That made my decision to visit the East side of the park easy. I hiked rapidly down, slowing only to shoot the the river at a particularly pretty spot, and the gorge.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The drive was indeed very quick, but I also had an additional mission: I had discovered that the gas line anti-freeze was a very bad fuel for my trangia alcohol stove. It burned fine and burned pretty hot, but sooted up my pot really badly, making clean up a disaster. I stopped at store after store looking for real methylated spirits, but eventually had to settle for rubbing alcohol, which was only 70% alcohol. All through the drive, however, I saw that the leaves had indeed changed colors on the East side of the park, which got me more and more excited as I headed towards St. Mary's.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

Upon reaching St. Mary's, I headed into the park and found it to be exceedingly windy. In fact, when I found a park bench and lit my stove, it took at least 30 minutes to boil water, since between the reduced alcohol content and the wind my poor stove was simply not getting a chance to heat up the pot at all. With lunch in me, I decided to drive up to Logan pass. It was windy and it was quite clear that as we got up the pass the weather would worsen. Nevertheless, who could pass up Logan pass?
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

There was quite a bit of construction on the road, and about 12 miles in we had to stop and wait for a pilot car to lead us to the top, since there was only one lane of road available for both directions. This turned out to be a good thing, since stopped cars attract big horned sheep, which came close enough for my point and shoot to capture. I realized at that point that keeping my SLR in the trunk of the car was a mistake.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism

The top of the pass was cold, windy, and overcast. Between the wind and my shivering fingers, even tripod mounted shots were blurry. I spent about 20 minutes there wandering around and trying to get some images, but failed. On the way down, however, I stopped by sunrift gorge, which was the trailhead for my parents' first backpacking trip in 1994, and found a couple of good images.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Journalism
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

For sunset, I hung around lower in the park looking for a place where the sun might poke through the overcast, but that was not to be. I eventually gave up after shooting just tens of images in an hour, and went to St. Mary's lodge to eat dinner, not trusting my stove to cook anything with the increasingly strong wind and rain.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

I thought about finding a park campground, but upon driving around town saw an empty gravel space that seemed quite empty, so decided I would save $10 and park there and sleep.

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Day 1: Kalispell to Apgar Creek Campground

I flew from San Francisco to Seattle, and then from Seattle to Kalispell on a propeller plane. At Kalispell airport, the rental car company told me that they did not have the economy car that I had reserved, but could give me a mini-van for the same price. I thought for a bit and realized that I liked the idea of having a mini-van if I could fold down the seats and sleep in it. The woman behind the counter told me that if I didn't like it I could bring it back tomorrow and exchange it for an economy car in the morning.

I drove out of the airport and headed towards Kalispell to the Rocky Mountain Outfitter, which had been recommended to me by some locals. There, I asked for methylated spirits for my alcohol stove. They did not have it, but pointed me at the NAPA down the street to get gas-line anti-freeze, which I was assured would work just as well. On the way there I ran into the Superfoods market to stock up on camping supplies, and then proceeded to the Napa where $3 got me a 16oz bottle of gas line anti-freeze.

I asked if the folks there knew how to fold down the seats in my Chrysler mini-van, but they didn't know off the top of my head, so I decided to just head towards Glacier National Park to camp out. I had previously found a couch surfing place to stay, but they had so many guests at the moment that I felt really rude barging into an already over-crowded house.

The drive out to Glacier National Park was fast, and I quickly arrived at the entrance to realize that I had forgotten to borrow a national parks pass from someone prior to the trip. No problem, I would simply buy one, since supporting the national parks is far from the worst thing in the world to do. Upon asking where a good place to get a sunset was, the park ranger immediately said Apgar Creek campground, for a view of the sunset across Lake MacDonald. I drove to the campground and starting unpacking my tent before realizing that I should figure out how to remove all the seats in the van. After removing nearly everything from the van, I figured out how to fold back the rear row of seats, and one of the seats in the middle row. That let me lay out my sleeping bag and sleeping pad, and still have plenty of room to put the rest of my gear. I then realized that since I did not need a tent spot, I could conceivably share a camp site with someone else who was tent camping, and split the costs. I packed away my tent, never to use it for the rest of the trip, and then found a Scotsman nearby named Ian who agreed to split a site with me.
From 2010 Canadian Rockies Fall Colors

I then ran off to shoot the sunset at Lake MacDonald. The sunset was beautiful, with a light hint of alpenglow. I made dinner, chatted with the campers next door who were on a long road trip across the country, and then went to bed in my van, hoping to wake up to an early sunrise that would be just as spectacular.

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Sunday, September 19, 2010

Review: It takes a genome

Disclosure: this was a free Kindle book a few days ago

It Takes a Genome has a very simple thesis: the conventional view of our genes as being responsible for various diseases such as cancer and diabetes should be viewed as symptomatic of another problem --- that as human beings we are operating way outside the environment in which our genes evolved, which is what makes such diseases common and gives the appearance of an epidemic.

To this end, Greg Gibson examines several diseases, breast cancer, diabetes, depression, Alzheimer's, and AIDs (the last is not a genetic disease, but he discusses how differently various peoples react to the disease, and how a small percentage of people seem to have immunity to AIDs). He debunks several myths about these diseases, including the "thrifty genes" hypothesis for accumulating weight and therefore getting diabetes. The discussion is non-technical, though Gibson does supply the names of the relevant genomes and genes for the layman. Very realistically, he points out how even in many extreme cases, having the relevant gene or genome only increases the likelihood of a certain disease by a few percentage point, with the rest attributed to other environmental factors. He emphasizes also how early we are in the current stage of investigation: there is so much complex interaction that being able to isolate a gene as a cause of a genetic disease can only happen in the most extreme cases. One thing that does come through in this book is how thoroughly focused on white people current genetic research is. There seem to be many results that only applies to Caucasians because that's all the studies that exist! (My perusal of my own 23AndMe genome report does show that this comes up a lot)

Ultimately, this short book makes its point clearly, and perhaps after this book you'll be a lot less excited about genetic services such as 23AndMe. I did notice when I signed up for the service how little actionable items I was able to extract from my own genome, so I've learned first hand how early we are in truly understanding what's going on out there.

While this book wasn't a waste of time to read, I would wait to check it out from the library rather than pay money for it. Mildly recommended.

Review: Mockingjay

Mockingjay is the last book of the Hunger Games serious. The Hunger Games and Catching Fire were previously reviewed here on this blog.

Both the previous books centered around the Hunger Games, a reality-TV show where children fight to the death in a pre-set arena. The protagonist of the first two novels, Katniss, showed herself to be resourceful in both action and in terms of manipulating the audience. This last book in the series, however, broadens out our view of the battlefield, which is that of the Rebels versus the Capitol. Katniss is rescued by the Rebels and turned into a PR symbol for anger against the regime.

In many ways, this book is more "realistic" than the previous ones. You wouldn't put a 17-year old in charge of running a battle plan, for instance. For another, if you did have a unique PR symbol, you wouldn't put her in danger or allow the enemy to score a PR coup by being able to attack her. On the other hand, what this did for the novel was to neuter the protagonist, making her helpless and powerless to make decisions that actually affect her world. This made me very impatient with the book. And seriously, there's not much realism about children killing each other off in a reality TV show anyway, so I think Collins should have just given in to the fantasy.

Then there's the interaction between Katniss and the rest of the characters that we've come to care about from the previous books. I certainly did not think that her behavior towards Peeta (a love interest from the previous book) was consistent with her loyalty in the previous books. Her relationship with Gale (the other point in the romantic triangle) didn't come across as being any better. If Katniss wasn't already established as a sympathetic heroine in the previous book I would think that she's an anti-hero. She's selfish, unthinking, and seemed to spend a lot of time whining.

The action picks up in the last third of the book, but even then, it all seemed futile. Any vestiges of competence seemed to have been wiped away from the characters, as they move only to serve the plot of the book, which I stopped caring about. The finale, when it came, seemed to tie up all the loose ends, but in reality glossed away all the complications that the author introduced, implying that she had written herself into a corner and did not know what to do. The first two books of the series carried a "recommended" tag, but I can't imagine that many readers being satisfied with this ending.

Friday, September 17, 2010

My Strong Frame is Dead

Dead Strong Frame

I was riding over to Google to visit some friends this morning, and when riding over a pedestrain bridge over 101, heard and felt this "snap!". I looked down at my bike and found that my bike had inadvertently shifted from the middle chainring to the granny gear. I shifted back to the middle chainring and things were fine, but the bike felt a bit funny.

At lunch, I looked at the frame and found that the chainstay where the spoke holder was was cracked. The crack didn't go all the way around the frame, but it was obvious that I wasn't going to descend Page Mill Road on the bike even one more time. After meeting various people (every time I visit, I run into so many people I know that it takes far longer than I expect), I visited Cynthia and she observed that the bottom bracket area was cracked as well, which it was, and almost all the way around. It looked like the weld had just about fallen apart!

The Bicycle Outfitter thought that the frame was not repairable, but Carl wants to see it anyway. In any case, I am very very grateful that my super fast descent on Wednesday didn't result in anything untoward!

I've never had a frame crack on me like this before, but this frame was my only single bike for about 2 years, surviving rough commutes, tours across France and Hokkaido, and of course, frequent rough stuff riding. On the other hand, my previous frames had done the same for many many years without any trouble. I'm not usually sentimental about equipment, but since I had a big hand in designing the frame, I feel the loss a bit deeper this time than previously. So here's a retrospective on the bike on this blog:
We'll see what Carl says when he gets it!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

My Second Book

I meant to write about my kickstarter project failure. In some ways, it shouldn't have been a surprise. $3000 is a lot of money to raise for a book about cycle touring, which many might not believe is unique enough. Nevertheless, the project continues apace. If you've contributed to the kickstarter project, I've already posted information on how to get access to the mailing list that provides previews of the book, which has entered what I call, "Content Complete." In other words, all the text is written, and I've already done a preliminary layout. I have a couple more items to write, but after this unless there are glaring holes in the content I don't anticipate adding a lot more material. In many ways, this book has been a blast to write, since I enjoy cycle touring, and tearing through my photo collection looking for appropriate photos to illustrate the book brings back so many memories.

My current plan is to finish up the writing by the middle of next week, take a couple of weeks off, and then come back to grind out the remainder: fixing up typos, proofing, dealing with photo credits and various minutia. The goal is to launch e-book sales by Thanksgiving, with an eye to sourcing printing and production by the end of the year for delivery early next year. Having e-book sales also lets me figure out how the book will be received and lets me plan a print run accordingly. In some ways, the e-book availability is what the software industry would call a "soft-launch".

As for what next. Well, I have a few ideas, but looking at my top two ideas, neither of them would benefit from a kickstarter-like funding option, so if/when I get cracking on them, I'll stay mum about them until such time as I need a group of "beta-readers."

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Review: Memoirs of a Fellwanderer

Back in 2006, Lisa and I walked Alfred Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk, still by far the best long walk I've done, and certainly the most romantic. When I first read Wainwright's book describing the walk, I thought the place must have been amazingly beautiful to have someone devote so much time to doing the book: every page was hand-written, and hand-drawn. The text was right-justified by hand! Imagine my amazement when I read in Memoirs of a Fellwanderer that he had gotten started without justifying the text and then threw out the first hundred pages after a year's work to start over so he could hand-justify the text without hyphens!

One of my friends once accused me of being far more in love with places of natural beauty than I ever was with any woman. All I can say is that he needs to read this book, because Wainwright's memoir truly does describe a man who was obsessed and delighted by the Lake District and the Highlands of Scotland, to the point of (1) reorganizing his career so he could live in Kendal so he could have time to explore the fells on weekends (2) treating his relationships with women in terms of how they would help him achieve his goals of wandering in the mountains. In the foreward, his second wife wrote:
After one or two sorties to the Pennine Way when I was left to my own devices between the dropping off and the picking up, I had the temerity to ask if I could accompany him. He looked surprised, was silent for a few seconds and then said I could if I didn't talk!
He even mentions that the big feature of his second wedding was that his wife had a car! His first wife barely got 2 sentences in the memoir. Yet when he writes about the fells (one of the chapters is titled, A love-letter to the fells), this is what he says:
Words are inadequate to express and explain the emotion impact the fells had on me. During the making of the books they dominated my thoughts. They held me in chains... I was living a double life. I was completely dedicated to the books and spent every available moment on them... Domestic relationships withered and died... On a day when I didn't have to wear a collar and tie I was a boy again. If I was heading for the hills, and not the office, I could set forth singing, not audibly, heaven forbid; just in my heart. I was off to where the sheep were real, not human.
Of interest to those who are self-publishers, Alfred Wainwright was a self-publisher as well. He did so for two reasons. One was that he couldn't bear the idea of rejection, and decided (probably rightly) that no existing publisher would look at his work and understand what they were, and would demand changes rather than printing it in entirety as he wanted done. The second was control: he really did not care about making money, but wanted his books exactly the way he wanted it.

As his fame wore on, he took to more and more extreme circumstances under-which he would try to avoid people. He started hiking at dusk, and would spend the nights on the mountains pacing back and forth, since sleeping was impossible. He would then hike back down in mid-morning when the hikers would start to show up. He would even lie to people who recognized him, denying that he was Alfred Wainwright.

If his ornery nature was all there was, I would not recommend this book. But what comes through in this book, page after page, illustration after illustration (yes, the book is lavishly illustrated with his famous ink-drawings, frequently accompanied with the photographs he took while walking) is his love of nature and his dedication to the art of walking and solitude. The book is a quick read: I picked it up this morning and finished reading it 2 hours later, but the illustrations will haunt you and draw you back to the book again and again. Certainly looking over this book has made me want to visit the Lake District again!

Needless to say, I highly recommend this book, and am glad I made an exception to my "no paper books" rule to acquire this book. It's not easily found, and wasn't available at my local library, but I think once you see the ink illustrations you will agree that it is well worth owning the book. If you are a hiker or outdoors person, you really owe it to yourself to read what it's like to be a consummate nature lover.

Friday, September 10, 2010

Review: Breaking Windows

Moishe Lettvin told me that Breaking Windows was a great book about the internal politics inside Microsoft during the time of the internet browser wars. At that time, two camps emerged inside Microsoft: Brad Silverberg's "Internet Doves" team advocated competing on an equal basis, and adopting the internet as the new programming model. Jim Allchin's "Windows Hawks" wanted to tie everything back to Windows, still Microsoft's #1 revenue generator and franchise today. (Disclosure: as a poor starving grad. student at UW, Brad Silverberg once gave Pardo and I a ride to the start of a mountain bike ride, rode with us masterfully --- through water that came up to our knees, no less, and then bought us all burgers for dinner)

The book's organized by people, rather than by timeline, which makes the narrative really confusing at times: the windows monopoly trial was revisited no less than three times, each time with a different character in play. The book's subtitle is How Bill Gates Fumbled The Future of Microsoft, and indeed, there's a lot of analysis of Bill Gates' approach to corporate strategy: everything had to tie back to windows, even Internet Explorer 4, and that led to the entire bundling charade that gave us a big trial with David Boies. The trial coverage was very well done, and Bank even got Boies to talk about how he would have approached the trial differently as the Microsoft counsel if he had been on the other side.

One thing that surprised me was that Bank portrays Gates' departure from Microsoft as CEO as being an ouster, rather than a voluntary relinquishing of the reins. That wasn't obvious to me from the press coverage at the time, and given that Microsoft's stock price at the time was incredibly high, I'm not sure how much credibility to give it.

Another interesting bit to read is how sympathetic Bank was to Steve Ballmer, who's been much vilified in the press for his antics. Then there's comments and complaints that should be very familiar to anyone who's seen a relatively small company grow a bit too fast:
Many of the processes that worked when Microsoft was small didn't "scale" now that it was big. Half of the nearly forty thousand employees had been hired during the previous five years. Internal issues were consuming more and more time---people complained about the need to respond to nearly a hundred e-mail messages a day, to attend endless, repetitive "off-sites" to adjust to yet another reorganization. Don't hire any more people, many employees told Ballmer. Don't make the company any bigger or we're all going to leave.
Both old-timers and newcomers were frustrated by the increasing volume of internal politics...

What impressed me from 1995 to 1998 was how quickly Microsoft pivoted to come from behind in the browser wars to utterly dominating and crushing Netscape. As someone who was working at a small internet startup at that time, I can testify that it wasn't just about being technically superior, but also at that time Microsoft approached even small companies with a degree of humility that was surprising to us, given their reputation. It was gratifying to me to see that this turnaround was largely master-minded by Brad Silverberg, who struck me as a nice guy in my one fleeting encounter with him. Nevertheless, for his heretical ideas for suggesting that Windows take a back seat in favor for a full-on internet-first approach, Silverberg was ousted, his team dismantled, and he quit in frustration. One can only speculate how different things would have been if he had been allowed to run with his idea and what was obviously an incredibly well-executing team.

Microsoft was smart enough to put Silverberg on a retainer so he wouldn't go to a competitor, and eventually tried to offer Silverberg his old job back. Yet Silverberg turned Ballmer's offer down:
"The company is so wrapped up in its shorts that it can't get anything done," he sighed in an e-mail to Ben Slivka, his old ally from the browser and Java battles. Microsoft might stil be loaded with brainpower, but it was getting only pennies on the dollar. "So much IQ is wasted.

When I first joined Google, I asked one of the execs a question: "Did Google feel that it had anything to learn from any other companies in its space?" The answer I got back surprised me with its arrogance: "No, there's no other precedent for having to deal with scale as much as we are." Reading this book made me realize that the exec was wrong. There's plenty to learn from Microsoft's mistakes, and it's too bad that many companies seem doomed to repeat them, though perhaps from a different angle.

Regardless, this book is compelling and while confusing at times, a fun read. Recommended.

Thursday, September 09, 2010

Review: Pan's Labyrinth

Pan's Labyrinthis a very dark fairy tale. Most fantasy movies are for kids, and this one breaks the mold. My parents have taken me to more scary movies when I was a child, but I don't think most American parents will be willing to subject their kids to that kind of horror.

The story is set during the Spanish Civil War. The protagonist of the movie, Ofelia and her pregnant mother travel to join her stepfather who's job it is to wipe out or contain the rebels in the forest. During her travels, she sets off a chain of events that lead to a visit by a fairy and a troll who tells her that she is a fairy princess trapped in the human world and must do three tasks in order to return lands of the fairy.

The first task seems in keeping with the traditional fairy tale. At the same time, we are exposed to the clashes between the rebels and the soldiers, and the cruelty of the war between them. Ofelia's mother takes ill, and the troll gives her a solution to help make her mother better. Ofelia fails at her second task. However, she is given one last chance by the troll, and her world falls apart while attacks between both sides of the war are in progress.

Filled with allegory, horror, and unflinching realism (yes, there's lots of blood in this movie, and I jerked involuntarily during a few scenes), the ending is both unexpected and entirely in keeping with the movie. The actors/actresses are very well done, and the cinematography captivating: it is clear that Guillermo del Toro put a ton of work into imagining every aspect of the movie, from color to costumes.

I enjoyed the movie, but I waver between thinking of the ending as a cop-out, and considering it a smart twist on the audience's sensibilities. The psychological tricks the movies plays on you are also not what I consider fair. Having said all that, I don't regret the time I spent watching the film at all. I just wouldn't show it to anyone squeamish.