BVI 2025: November 27 - Long Bay, Jost Van Dyke to White Bay, Peter Island

 It was Xiaoqin's birthday, and what better way to start it off than to do a 10 minute motor to Sandy Spit (which we'd been staring at all evening yesterday) and swim to shore while we had the island all to ourselves. When we set the anchor, Arturo said: "I know you said 10 minutes but I didn't expect it to be this quick."

Boen was determined to the first person on the island, and went into the water first with Massi. Arturo and I followed after checking the anchor. The others took their time, eating a leisurely breakfast. Boen was already playing in the sand when I got to the island and realized that he hadn't had sunscreen on. I checked my watch and it was only 7:30, so I told him he had to get back to the boat to put on sunscreen at 8:30.

Sandy Cay was the island we'd always visited in the past, right down to being able to run around the entire island in 1.5 minutes. Even Bowen deigned to do so, once he realized how small the island was. This time, there was no way for him to disappear or find coconut trees, as there were only 5 trees on the island, none of which were coconut trees. Interestingly enough, there were signs that the park service or some such was trying to plant more trees on the island, as there were baby palm trees in plant supporting containers sitting on the ground, so we might have more trees the next time we visited.

At 8:15, another Catamaran approached the island, drawing in much closer to shore than we had dared. "It must be a professional skipper," I told Arturo. Indeed, the denizens of the catamaran swam to shore but the captain stayed aboard, an indication that he was a paid professional. We had seen signs of it yesterday when they picked up a mooring ball near us, with just one person steering and one person working, while the rest of the boat applauded. I confirmed that when I spoke to some of the folks who'd swam from the boat.

It rained and we got some very nice rainbows from our spots on Sandy Cay, and then swam back to La Badine to raise anchor and sail to Sopher's Hole on Tortola to reprovision and buy a birthday cake for Xiaoqin. With a beam reach we reached as much as 8 knots heading towards Sopher's hole, and took down the sails and motor'd into the harbor, tying up on a mooring ball and then dinghying in ashore for the supermarket. Arturo had scratched his head this morning over how we were running out of water and diet coke much faster than anticipated, but we reminded him that Mingkuan was a last minute addition to the crew, and he was therefore off by 1 in his provisioning. "That makes sense."

Once ashore, we bought more cereal, bread, and I made a suggestion to buy the Rotisserie for lunch, but Arturo thought it would work great for dinner and eliminate the need to eat out for one night. We bought vegetables, and Xiaoqin decided against a cake but instead we got a bunch of fruit tarts instead in various flavors, pineapple, guava, and coconut. The last was a mistake as I thought I was getting more pineapple, but people ate it anyway! We also bought some ice cream and more bags of ice to refresh our supply. With the big reprovision we couldn't all fit on the boat at once, so Arturo made a separate run for groceries (along with the people required to organize the groceries). While he was so occupied I asked Boen if he would like a rash guard so he wouldn't have to wear more sunscreen on his body and he agreed. He even decided to buy one that was bigger than a tight fit so he would be able to wear it longer.

Stone, Massi, and Kathryn went shopping for a birthday present for Xiaoqin. After we returned to La Badine we ate a quick lunch before casting off the moorings and heading out onto the Drake passage. This time, we headed East against the wind on motor for quite a bit so that when we raised sails we wouldn't have to tack back and forth on our way to Soldier Bay, Norman Island.

Arriving at Norman Island, it looked awfully windy, but it was a relatively sheltered bay with several mooring balls so we picked one that looked more sheltered and tied up to it. Once in the water we discovered that there wasn't a current. The snorkeling was quite good but we didn't find the cuttlefish we had found the last time we were here in Soldier Bay.

Done with the snorkeling, we made ready to head to White Bay, which Xiaoqin had fond memories of on one of our last visits. It would also set us up for a dive of the wreck of the Rhone for the next day as well. It was close enough and directly into the wind so we just motor'd. As we motor'd along, however, a wild storm ran up and blew one of the cushions into the cockpit away and out of the boat! "Are we going back for it?" I asked Arturo. "Heck yeah, that's $650!"  We immediately went into man overboard operations. As many people as could be spared would point at the cushion. The boat hook was readied. I then turned the boat towards the cushion and then tried to maneuver it so that it was up wind and someone could pick it up.

Well, that was the plan. First, the storm picked up even harder, making it hard for me or the crew to see it. Then the wind tried to pick up another cushion to blow it away. I slammed my body against the cushion to keep it from flying away, and called for someone to come sit on it. It blew away from me anyway (bruising my knee in the process), but fortunately it flipped over and hit Arturo in the back, which prevented it from flying off the boat like its brother. After that, I became thankful for the cockpit being much higher than on other catamarans I had rented, for I could now see the dang cushion flipping over on the waves and made for it.

The recovery wasn't smooth, I ran over the seat cushion once, and then a second swing by happened to quickly for anyone to pick up the cushion, and on the third try the intrepid crew finally snagged it with both hands and boat hook and lifted it back to the boat. Cheers went all around, and I turned the boat back towards White Bay, where we arrived in good weather.

To our surprise there were two super yachts anchored right outside White Bay, but there were plenty of mooring balls available, so we grabbed one. Arturo went for a swim, Mingkuan grabbed a paddleboard and went to shoot more video after the kids got tired of paddleboarding, and I grabbed the other one. I paddled Xiaoqin to the shore of White Bay, where we walked the beach. We asked a couple (the only other people on the beach) to take a picture of us and they asked us about boating. "My kids are too young for the boat," said the man. "My son's been sailing since he was 18 months."

Xiaoqin chose to swim back to the boat, since she'd brought her snorkel gear, but of course while trying to get the paddleboard back to La Badine I slipped and dunked myself into the water. After I returned the paddleboard, Mark took a turn on it and he too, dunked himself in the water. The waves were still a little churned up from the storm.

Arturo noted that one of the super yachts was owned by the CEO of Blackberry and the other by the original tech lead of Microsoft Office. He said that both those boats apparently visit White Bay every Thanksgiving. We setup dinner, hungry from the day's activities, and ate everything, sang "Happy Birthday" to Xiaoqin using a lighter as a candle, and ate all the dessert as well. Star gazing was out of the question as the rains had made the decks wet. But what a day!

BVI 2025: Nov 26 - Marina Cay to Long Bay, Jost Van Dyke

 We were not in a hurry this morning, so after getting up at 6:15, Arturo and I made coffee and then ate breakfast before getting the boat ready to go, checking the engine oil for the first time on the trip. We cleared Great Camanoe before raising the sails for a downwind run to Brewer's Bay.

On this trip, Mingkuan had brought a pirate costume and on this long downhill run, he directed his mom on how to shoot a video for a cool riff on Pirates of the Carribean. Over the next few days he would run out and shoot various scenes and at the end he put together what looked like a pretty great video.

Arriving at Brewer's Bay, we peeked inside the bay to discover there was only one other boat there. The cruising guide mentioned that Brewer's Bay had limited anchoring room, and many charter companies prohibit anchoring there because of numerous undersea cables. Well, we had waived our chart briefing so we didn't hear of any prohibitions on this charter. The book also noted that they'd never heard of anyone fouling the cables

Taking down the sails and motoring in, we took care to avoid the reefs (which turned out to be so deep that our Catamaran wouldn't have run aground), and found the sand patch that the book described and dropped anchor. Snugging everything up at 1500rpm, the anchor held so Arturo and I jumped into the water to check the anchor. The anchor was stable, but Arturo noted that we were a bit too close to the reef. "It's OK for a day stop." "Yeah, we let out way too much chain."

The snorkel was weird. Arturo, Boen and I missed the reef that Xiaoqin found, which had a lot more wildlife and ended up all the way across the bay. It's a testimony to how much more efficient fins make you that you can swim all the way across a bay and come back. The snorkeling was decent, but not "excellent" as described by the cruising guide, though we did see a lobster. Nevertheless, it was a good stop. After we had lunch, we raised anchor, motor'd out and headed straight for Sandy Cay, which was so close that it wasn't even worth getting up the sails.

I'd confused Sandy Cay with Sandy Spit, and so was very surprised when I saw there were mooring balls on the west side of Sandy Cay. Well, we picked up the closest mooring ball since there were no other boats, and then swam ashore as we had the entire island to ourselves. The snorkeling towards Sandy Cay was pretty good, and when we landed ashore it was obvious to us that this wasn't what we were thinking off, as there was a National Park sign which didn't remember, and we remembered we could run around the island in a matter of minutes whereas Sandy Cay didn't have runnable trails once you were outside the beach.

We shrugged, since finding a new place we'd never been to before was worth it, and we had the place to ourselves. Bowen and Boen started building sand castles. "It's very good that your kids are so independent." We walked the length of the beach, which was big enough that we could be out of sight of the kids. We found coral, and then Ying and Xiaoqin found a super cute Atlantic Ghost Crab. I shot a video of the crustacean, which must have been mystified at the large number of cameras pointed at it as it skittered along.

I went to find Bowen and Boen so they wouldn't miss out on the excitement, and we found Boen who went to see the crab, but Bowen was nowhere to be found. When asked, Boen told us he went to find some coconuts. There was a good 15 minutes of panic as we ran around looking for our wayward son. "OK, maybe it's not such a good thing that your kids are so independent!" said Arturo. Eventually, though, Bowen was spotted coming out of one of the trails with 3 coconuts in his hands, oblivious to the fact that the rest of us had spent 15 minutes searching for him. "See?" said Boen. "He was looking for coconuts." Mark Brody, who'd be on the La Badine the whole time would later describe his perspective from the boat, where he saw Bowen wandering off, and then see (but not hear) the panic, the search, and the spreading waves of people looking for Bowen.

Alls well that ends well, so we swam back to La Badine, coconuts and all. When we had de-sanded everyone properly ("No sand on the boat!" cried Arturo and I), we got ready to move La Badine again, this time reminding everyone not to take showers, as our next destination was Long Bay and the hike from Foxy's Taboo to the bubbly pools where we expected everyone to get more salt water exposure. Arturo had checked the mooring ball status for Long Bay in the morning and it was very clear that there wasn't going to be a problem getting a mooring ball or anchoring at the location. In fact, when we got there we saw that the reservable balls were all the desirable ones, while the white balls were further away from Foxy's Taboo. It was a windy location, so we would expect to ship water in the dinghy coming back, but going there we simply loaded the dinghy up for all the people and went at a moderate speed.

Tying up at Foxy's Taboo, we walked the 2 mile walk to the bubbly pool, which was a much shorter walk than I remembered. The pool was a hole in the island's reef where high waves from the Atlantic would push through and create foaming water, much like a Jaccuzi but at Caribbean temperatures instead of a hot tub. It was a fun activity and a change from the snorkeling and swimming, and the weather was warm enough that the water was fun.

When we were done we walked back and had drinks at Foxy's (non alcoholic for us), and then dinghy'd back to La Badine in 2 batches so that we wouldn't ship too much water into the dinghy. It was much too windy to risk paddleboarding, so we raised the dinghy and made dinner, eating the rest of the quinoa. The next day's weather forecast called for  a small craft advisory, but we were in protected waters. The stargazing was good, but the clouds started gathering and the bright moon made it difficult.

2025 BVI: November 25 - Deadman's Bay, Peter Island to Marina Cay

 I woke up at 5:45am, determined to get the boat moving as quickly as possible. Making coffee for myself and Arturo, eating breakfast, and getting going, we left our mooring ball at 6:20am, and motor'd at our cruising speed upwind. I knew that it was a longer distance from Deadman's Bay to the Baths, but I was shocked that when we passed Cooper Island, 3 Mooring's Yachts came right out of Manchioneel Bay.

The boat briefing told us that the cruising RPM for the La Badine's engines was at 2000rpm, but given the competition, I pushed our engines to 2500rpm, reasoning that it was only 30 minutes to the Baths and the engines were already nice and warm by then.

As the Baths got closer and closer we were dismayed to see that despite the early hour there were already boats on the mooring balls in front of the baths. I remembered that there were at least 8, but in the morning light it was not clear whether there were more or less or whether they were all taken. As we got closer we discovered that there were a lot more than 8 mooring balls, and there were at least 3 left. I made for one and as we passed a few boats already moored they shouted at me to slow down. In the excitement to snatch a mooring ball I had pushed the engines for too hard for too long. Despite all that we easily snagged the mooring ball and settled down to eat breakfast, relieved that we wouldn't have to sit around or come back another day. It was 8:00am.

After breakfast, we got everyone ready for the snorkel. Our mooring ball was positioned nicely so we didn't even have to get the dinghy out, and could just swim to shore, directed by the yellow flags on the beach. Upon arriving, however, we discovered that since the last time we were here, the hiking trail in the Baths have turned into one way. We debated locking up our stuff and hiking over, but at the last minute I decided that the swim was way more pleasant than the hike and we just snorkeled over to Devil's Bay.

The Baths in the morning before cruise ships arrive is an outstanding experience. We had plenty of time because the big cruise ships didn't arrive until tomorrow. The walk takes you over, under, and through the boulders that constitute the beach, and is carefully constructed to be exciting while actually offering minimal physical challenge. We took our time, enjoying the walk, before popping back out to the other side.

From there, we swam back to the boat. There, we had a lunch. The previous day, we had debated what to do. One option was to sail back to Cooper Island, refill our scuba tanks, and then attempt the wreck of the Rhone. But the weather forecast was not good, and doing that was effectively backtracking. We ended up deciding to go to Marina Cay, where there was a dive tank refill at the Scrub Island Resort, and I knew there was good snorkeling at Diamond Reef.

We untied from our mooring ball and released it and immediately there were two boats fighting over our freshly vacated ball! "I think that boat was here first!" shouted Mark at one of them. "Tell that to my skipper!" came the reply as that boat motor'd furiously and snatched out the mooring ball from the waiting boat. Despite the notice that the mooring balls were supposed to be for a 90 minute visit only in practice nobody actually enforces that period, which means that those waiting for a ball could easily have been waiting for hours. We were glad to be spared that drama on the way we chose to visit the Baths. And it was a good day too, since there were no big cruise ships sending huge numbers of visitors to the Baths.

Raising the sails, we made for a beam reach towards Marina Cay, making good time under nice conditions. Arriving there, however, we discovered that all the white mooring balls (the first come first serve regime) were taken, and an online scan of the orange balls showed that they were all reserved as well. Arturo had checked various websites at 7:00am and discovered that places like Cooper Island were all booked at 7:00am! How could that be? It turned out that you could pay extra to be able to make reservations at 7:00pm the night before, pay even more to be able to make reservations the day before, and even more to book up to 3 months ahead. In other words, rather than having to wake up early, you had to pay money months in advance. This was a shitty way to run a vacation based on the outdoors, however, since you had no way of knowing what the weather conditions were like that far out!  At first, we tried anchoring off diamond reef but were told off by the Yachtsmen who were already there. It was pretty iffy and there was a reef and a power line running between Scrub Island and Great Camanoe so it was probably a good idea to leave well enough alone.

Under motor, we made our way through the mooring field in despair. My back up plan would be that we pick up an orange ball, get the air tanks refilled and then anchor out at the airport off Trellis Bay. But at the last minute we spotted a white mooring ball across the channel off Great Camanoe. When we picked up the mooring ball it was full of gunk, and it took us a couple of tries to tie up to it, since cleaning up the pennant eyelet took enough time that we could stay put. The color of the ball was correct though, and after we tied up to the ball I tested the ball by reversing it at 1500rpm (it was obviously so infrequently used that I didn't trust it!), and it held firm. It would turn out that the ball was so far out of the way that the fee collectors didn't bother to show up to collect either!

Arturo had called the Scrub Bay Dive center and confirmed that they would refill our tanks, so we loaded up the dinghy with all 10 tanks. Arturo, Mark, and Kathryn would go refill the tanks while the rest of us chilled out on the boat, since the dinghy was already very low on the water with all 10 scuba tanks onboard. Kathryn wanted to do some souvenir shopping as well. The trio dropped the tanks off at the dive center (it turned out that there was a 20% discount for doing 10 tanks at once), did some reprovisioning, and then came back to pick everyone up to snorkel at Diamond Reef.

Diamond Reef had excellent snorkeling, and we had a great time exploring the area. Not for nothing was the place so popular that we couldn't anchor there! After that, we paid a visit to Marina Cay hoping for some ice cream but there was none to be had! We then dropped everyone else on the boat and Xiaoqin, Arturo, Mark and I went over to Scrub Island to pick up the dive tanks and buy ice cream! On the way there Arturo pointed out that one of the luxury Catamarans that were tied up at a slip had the royal colors of Spain!

We picked up the dive tanks with no problems --- there was even a wheelbarrow handy so we wouldn't have to carry the tanks one at a time, and Xiaoqin bought 3 cartons of ice cream, enough to feed the boat. We were greeted with cheers.

Dinner that night was boiled hot dogs, with Arturo saving the leftover quinoa for another night so we didn't get sick of it. We did some star gazing but there was a lot of light interference from the airport, and there were splotches of rain, so we called it a night early. I had big plans for the next morning --- a long sail to Jost Van Dyke with a possible stop at Brewer's Bay for some snorkeling along the way, so getting everyone to bed early fit my plans!

BVI 2025: Nov 24 Kelly's Cove, Norman Island to Deadman's Bay, Peter Island

 The long day yesterday and the jet lag still took its toll. Despite my intentions, I woke up at the late hour of 6:15am, and discovered that it was already quite bright. I made coffee for myself and Arturo, ate some cereal, and then we moved the boat 15 minutes over to the Indians, where we were still the first boat on the national park mooring ball.

By the time we'd finished our boat move, everyone had awakened and were eating breakfast. Arturo went for a snorkel to recall the optimal places for diving, and the rest of us took the chance to go snorkeling as well. The Indians is a fantastic snorkeling site, and the value of being there early was apparent when by 7:30am, every mooring ball was taken.

We got our dive started around 8:30am, and we were finished by around 9:30am. We moved all the dive tanks back in place, and then moved the boat to Key Cay on Peter Island for the dive of the new Willy T wreck. We arrived as another dive boat had divers in the water, but moored our boat with no incident. We asked the dive boat if they had a good dive and they said they did.

Arturo got in the water to snorkel around, and then discovered that the mast of the Willy T's was directly under the La Badine. He looked dubious about the dive, and I had my expectations set low, but we were there, so decided to do the dive anyway. With everyone in the water, we descended and there was the Willy T's, but this time, decorated with pirates of the Caribbean style. The wreck wasn't very old, at most 3-4 years old, but it had had enough time to pick up coral, and quite some wildlife, though it was a bit too deep for the colors to pop in the photos. As predicted by Arturo, we finished the dive because we ran out of things to see long before we ran out of air.

Packing everything away, we motor'd upwind around Peter Island towards Cooper Island. Upon arriving at Cooper Island's Manchioneel Bay, however, we saw that every first come first serve mooring ball was already taken, and every reservable mooring ball was already spoken for. We went past Cistern point to see if there was a place to anchor, but the placement of mooring balls there meant that anchoring was iffy at best. After a failed attempt to drop our anchor I decided it was wiser to raise the sail and sail to Deadman's Bay.

Sailing downwind was easy, and we arrived at Deadman's Bay around 4:00pm, with enough time to go swimming or snorkeling or paddleboarding after parking at a $40 mooring ball. Dinner this time was shrimp with quinoa (we'd discovered that one of the refrigerators didn't work at all, so had to eat the seafood early before it spoiled!), and then some superlative star gazing before bedtime. Our goal the next day was to motor over to the Baths as early as we could wake up.

BVI 2025: Nov 23rd - Nanny Cay Marina , Tortola to Kelly's Cove, Norman Island

 Despite the jet lag, we woke up around 7am and made coffee. I ate a granola breakfast with the lactose free milk powder I'd brought from California, because there was no lactose free milk to be had during the provisioning the night before. Nothing was going to be available until 8am, but we ran around the boat looking for things that needed to be fixed before we left. Massi had discovered that her cabin fan didn't work, but surprisingly, as they had promised to Mark and Kathryn the day before, everything else seemed ready to go. We still had a little bit more provisioning to do (I'd forgotten my sailing gloves), and obviously the scuba gear and paddleboard would also have to be delivered before we left.

At 8:00am, the office opened and we promptly walked in. Ahead of us was a gentlemen who looked flustered and angry. It turned out that he had gotten his boat out late the day before, and then discovered that his generator didn't work, which meant he didn't have AC for the night, so in a fit of fury he returned to Nanny Cay at the fuel dock to get it fixed since he'd lost faith in Navigare, our charter company. 

When we got to our turn, the receptionist had us finish off the paper work, and to our surprise, immediately got onto the phone and called our scuba equipment company asking them to deliver as soon as possible. She took my deposit for the boat, gave us a boat phone, various documents, and then asked us when we would like to depart. "As quickly as possible", came our reply. She looked a little taken aback and then proceeded to organize people to try to get us a check out captain. I was amazed at this level of customer service --- at previous charters most employees operated on "island time", and we'd be lucky to get off the docks by noon, these folks seemed intent on getting us out earlier!

Sure enough, by 8:45am, a checkout captain came by and started showing us the boat systems. These include the sewage pumpouts (which were electronic), where the fuses were, the sails, the engines, and the watermaker operation. The watermaker on this boat was in the strangest place possible inside the port side engine compartment. We were taught how to turn it on and which valve to adjust, but it would turn out later that the story we were told wasn't complete. We asked how often we were supposed to check the engine oil, and were told to check it every other day. Again, that was a unique schedule, as previous charter companies would say "every day", or "not at all, you paid for a boat with working engines!"

We noticed that the dinghy didn't come with a fuel canister, which we needed, and also noted that the water tanks needed to be topped off. In addition, Massi's cabin fan hadn't been fixed yet. The checkout captain seemed very optimistic that everything would be ready in time, but it was already 9:30. Surprisingly enough, things started happening at 10:00am. The scuba equipment arrived, along with the paddleboard, delivered by the same company. At the spur of a moment I decided to ask for two paddleboards, which the company happened to have, so they strapped it on. Arturo had worried that we wouldn't have enough space for two paddleboards but it turned out that they would just strap them back to back, fins out, and it worked out great.

Massi's fan got fixed, a hose was found to fill out water tanks, and then at 10:30am, and the boat next to us got moved so we were clear! The checkout captain came by and asked: "Would you like me to take it out or would you like to take it out yourself." It'd been 2 years since I'd operated a Catamaran, so I decided to let him take it out. The got us out of the dock and past the fuel dock, then a dinghy came to pick him up and I took over the helm.

We motor'd out of the channel markers and immediately prepared to raise the sail. I wanted to hit Norman Island, either Kelly's Cove or Privateer Bay. The sails went up without a hitch and before long I'd turned off the engines and we were sailing across the Sir Francis Drake channel. Privateer Bay looked busy, with multiple boats already alongside for the famous snorkeling near the Caves, so we opted to head to Kelly's Cove where we picked up a mooring ball for the night.

My initial thought was that we'd dinghy out to the Caves for a snorkel right after lunch but Xiaoqin and Arturo persuaded me that the smart thing to do was to snorkel at Kelly's Cave first so everyone got their gear ready. We ate lunch and did that. It turned out that the Yans thought they had snorkeled before, but their experience was a very curated one where they essentially put their face in the water, no swimming involved. So we had to set things up for them. Ying got 2 swimming noodles, and both Mingkuan and his dad got life jackets. After that initial snorkel the kids wanted to paddleboard so we got out the paddleboards. One of them didn't have an ankle tie, so we had to tie a spare piece of line where the ankle tie would be, and use that line to cleat the paddleboard off whenever it wasn't in use. We relied on all paddleboarders being confident swimmers to avoid having the kids tie a line around themselves every time they used it. Since the only kids onboard were mine and mine were good swimmers it worked out.

The kids, as kids would do decided to use the ankle tie on the one to tie to the other kid's paddleboard, and would take turns towing each other or just fool around. After they were done, each of the adults who were interested got a chance to play with them as well. Mingkuan was on his school's rowing team and took to paddleboarding with ease.

We got the dinghy out, put all of us in it, and sluggishly waddled across the mouth of the bight to the dinghy tie off to the caves. The outboard engine wasn't the most powerful, and it got the job done, but with 11 people on the dinghy it would ship water at the slightest provocation. Fortunately, we never took long enough trips on the dinghy for it to be a big deal.

Snorkeling at the caves is always fantastic, and we had fun exploring. The Yans were a bit overwhelmed, it being their second experience, and went back to the dinghy after exploring just two out of the three caves, but we had our fill and returned to the boat.

Arturo planned to have burgers for dinner tonight, and he had a hard time starting the grill. We tried to get the water maker running, but learned that it wasn't as easy. We called tech support but he was of no help. Eventually, the device would randomly work and we'd start getting water coming out of the water maker, after which we would close the engine compartment. Meanwhile, Arturo had finally managed to get the grill started despite the breeze, and proceeded to cook no less than 15 burgers.

Over the next few days, starting the water maker was always wracked with uncertainty. Eventually, Arturo would figure out the procedure, turning the knob all the way nearly closed until the device started pumping water, and then turning it back to increase the pressure until it started producing water. Once the water maker started, it was very fast, easily keeping up with all the showers on the boat running at once. Once the water tank read 100% (another weird quirk of the boat was that the water tank gauge would jump from 89% to 100% with nothing in between), we would turn off the generator.

After dinner, I showed Ying, Stone and MingKuan how washing up on a freshwater limited boat worked --- you would grab a couple of buckets of sea water, and soap up, and then only rinse with fresh water. While we had a water maker, every minute of water making consumed diesel, so we were effectively paying for water.

After all the washing was done, we turned off the lights for evening star gazing. We didn't know it then, but this would be the best night of star gazing for the trip, as the moon was waxing, and the weather wouldn't stay cooperative for the rest of the trip. The air was warm and stargazing on a sailboat on a Caribbean is a very comfortable way to do it. I spotted a shooting star, and it on a look up on the internet confirmed that this must be amongst the last remnants of the leonids meteor shower.

I proposed a plan to Arturo for the next day: a dive at the Indians in the morning, then a visit to the new wreck of the Willy T's near Key Cay on Peter Island, and then to Cooper Island for the night for a refill. It was an aggressive schedule but in the past I'd always been able to get to Cooper Island for a mooring ball by 2:00pm.

Review: Grunt

 In truth, this review of Grunt should be marked a re-read, since I'd read it before but had forgotten to write a review. In this book, Mary Roach in her inimitable style explores the various scientists/engineers who work for the military and design the equipment.and procedures that are used by the men (and women) in uniform.

Mary Roach shies away from the sexy and fun stuff like weapons and armor, but goes for the weird stuff like penile reconstruction surgery for victims of IEDs. This made me a bit queasy to read about so you need to have a strong stomach.

There's also stuff like noise reduction and hearing loss (which makes sense), submarine rescue (which is pretty astonishing, but apparently those rescues using a diving bell like apparatus did happen successfully!).

The book is enjoyable to read and like all of Mary Roach's books worth your time without a lot of fluff. Recommended.

2025 BVI Sailing Trip

 This is the index page for the 2025 BVI Sailing trip that I organized. Joining my family this time was Arturo and Massi Crespo, Mark and Kathryn Brody, Ying, her husband Stone, and their son Mingkuan. The trip happened over Thanksgiving break, and included 4 dives, lots of snorkeling, and many of the highlights that we had done on previous trips. Set against that were changes in the BVIs that were for the worse --- a new mooring ball reservation system that was a money grab and made mooring at Cooper Island and Marina Cay very iffy propositions, and over-crowding that made the mooring balls at the Baths a highly contentious affair.

This was Boen's first trip to the BVIs since he learned how to swim. This is the index page for the day by day trip report, videos, and picture links.

• Shared Photo Album
• Bubbly Pool at Jost Van Dyke
• Wreck of the Rhone
• Diamond Reef

Trip Log

• Nov 21-22: Prologue
• Nov 23: Nanny Cay Marina, Tortola to Kelly's Cove, Norman Island
• Nov 24: Kelly's Cove, Norman Island to Deadman's Bay, Peter Island
• Nov 25: Deadman's Bay, Peter Island to Marina Cay
• Nov 26: Marina Cay to Long Bay, Jost Van Dyke
• Nov 27: Long Bay, Jost Van Dyke to White Bay, Peter Island
• Nov 28: White Bay, Peter Island to Privateer Bay, Norman Island
• Nov 29: Privateer Bay, Norman Island
• Nov 30: Privateer Bay, Norman Island to Nanny Cay Marina, Tortola
•  Epilogue

Building Xiaoiqin's Ritchey Montebello

 Last year, we purchased a Lynskey GR300 for Xiaoqin. But she never really liked the bike that much though she appreciated the SRAM Force electronic shifting, which was quiet, fast, and consistent. There were probably many reasons for this -- the frame was probably too overbuilt and stiff for someone in her weight class. The bike was about 4 pounds heavier than her Ritchey Road Logic (which at this point has nearly 8000 miles on it!), the fitting never quite got there. Furthermore, the SRAM Force gearing bottomed out at 30/36, which is still a higher gear than what her Road Logic had --- that along with the bigger tires meant that the highest gear was much too high and the lowest gear wasn't as low as what was on her Ritchey logic. I've long been convinced that manufacturers design road bike gearing for fit 25 year olds with good knees and SRAM while much better than Shimano in this regards is still inadequate.

So we sold it. We had several ideas for a replacement, since having wider tires would enable her to do rides that her Road Logic (with its 32mm max tire clearance) don't quite have sufficient clearance for. These were the Fairlight Strael, the Ritchey Montebello, or the David Kirk Onesto. The Montebello won because it was most available (the other frames had at least a 6 month wait). The Trump tariffs also made the Fairlight much more expensive than it otherwise would have been.

Taking advantage of some black friday sales, I bought a bunch of parts and had Velotech in Palo Alto put the bike together:

• Ritchey Comp Zeta Disc Wheels
• Shimano Duraace BB paired with 160mm Shimano 105 Cranks
• Wolftooth 38t narrow wide chainring
• SRAM Force Mullet Groupset (Force brake levers and brakes, X01 Eagle Rear Derailleur, XX1 Rainbow Cassette 10-52, SRAM Eagle XX1 chain)
• Thompson Elite Seat post
• Ritchey WCS Skyline handlebars
• Ritchey RL-1 84 Stem
• Specialized Power Arc Pro Elaston saddle
• SRAM Force 140mm brake rotors
• Rene Herse Barlow Pass tires 700x38

I used the Stem Reach Calculator to compute the correct stem length to bring the reach and stack as close to her Ritchey Road Logic as possible, but didn't realize that Wade had shortened her stem on the Ritchey logic on a previous visit. It turned out that the Montebello's stack height was tall enough, however, that she wanted the extra reach, and we ended up not having to leave as much of the stem stick out as we thought we would need.

I tried to stick to as many Ritchey parts as possible on this build, save for the stuff that I knew worked well or were similar to her Road Logic. In particular, I had noted that the Lynskey's SRAM Force BB and Crankset were painful to extract compared to the Shimano cranksets I was used to, so stuck with the Shimano. The 12 speed gearing also allowed me to use a slightly smaller chainring (38t) to grant both a lower low gear and a higher high gear than her Ritchey Road Logic. I also decided to go for 140mm brake rotors for more weight reduction, saving weight not only by using smaller rotors, but also by eliminating the need for the adapter required to match the rear brake with 160mm rotors.

I considered the Shimano Di2 wireless system --- now that they have a wireless rear derailleur that can handle a 10-51 cassette they were actually worth considering. But I ruled Shimano out because the microspline standard makes it hard to get standard road wheels (once again, Shimano makes life hard for people who like low gears on road bikes), and the Ultegra level road brifters on Shimano components comes not with carbon fiber blades but with metal blades. Over the years, I've discovered that carbon brake levers act as insulators instead of conductors and are key to being able to use short finger gloves (or no gloves) while riding in cooler conditions. I do not believe I can recommend modern Shimano components to anyone who's not racing. I've been watching fellow tourists all switch one by one to SRAM setups, and I think Shimano has seriously screwed themselves by deliberately segregating their road and MTB gearing systems.

The net result was that the Ritchey Montebello came in only 1kg heavier than her Road Logic, no mean feat given that disc brakes, wireless electronic shifting, and hydraulics all contribute significant weight to a bike, not to mention the heavier frame, which came in at a hair over 2kg, which was disappointing as her Road Logic came in at 1600g, which was 150g lighter than specified.

What impressed me the most about Velotech was the master mechanic, Tom (who's the only mechanic in the shop) assembled the first bike with disc brakes I've seen that doesn't squeal, no matter how sharply I braked on my test ride.

Xiaoqin reports that the bike felt very smooth and comfortable, but the true test of any bike is whether you ride it a lot, so we'll have to see what the long term outlook likes like.

BVI 2025: Nov 22 Prologue

 We boarded the red eye on November 21st, switching planes in Chicago at 6:00am and making it to STT airport at 2:00pm, too late to make the 2:30pm ferry, but within striking distance of the 4:30pm ferry. Once of the plane we walked rapidly through the airport since we didn't need luggage, and got a taxi that delivered us to the ferry terminal within half an hour.

At the ferry terminal, we discovered that ferry ticket prices had gone up dramatically since our last visit to the BVIs --- for a family of 4 it now cost over $300, and bag fees were mandatory. There was also a new electronic entry system for the BVI, so rather than filling out a paper form I had to use my phone. We met with our neighbors who were coming along on the trip, Ying, Stone, and their son Mingkuan. Arturo, Mark, Kathryn, and Massi had made it onto the 2:00pm ferry, so they would get to the boat first and start provisioning.

On the ferry, we received word that we needed to be first in line to get off the ferry, as the electronic system had made things slower instead of faster. Our boat, the La Badine (a 45' Lagoon Catamaran) was not ready yet, so Mark and Kathryn had to watch the luggage while Arturo went to provision the boat. The ferry ride was slow, but uneventful other than the constant exhortations to sit down instead o moving around and taking pictures, a far cry from past visits where we could do whatever we liked. Arriving at Road town at 5:15pm, we were not let off until at least 5:30pm, and despite being 4th in line to get to the customs and passport controls, it took 30 minutes to exit!

We got to the boat just in time for them to let Mark and Kathryn in, and we moved into the boat, learned where the showers were, and then Arturo and Massi showed up with the provisions! That took us a good 30 minutes to organize, but then after that we went to the Peg Legs restaurant for a group dinner. As is usual in the BVIs it takes a super long time for the food to be served but eventually it was served, we had dinner, did our shower things, and went to bed. We were told that the boat next to ours, the Lili was being worked on (Mark would later tell us that they'd taken the steering rod out and straightened it out by having multiple men stand on it!) and we'd be awakened early anyway even if we slept badly.

Arturo discovered that the generator was running despite us being at dock. Since it made it impossible for those in the V-berths to sleep, we turned it off. We wondered why the generators were on even though the shore power cable was plugged in, and concluded that the power delivery at the docks must have been so weak that running the ACs (which was necessary during the day for the comfort of the cleaning and repair crew) would blow the fuses dockside. This is the kind of thing you encounter frequently if you charter in the Caribbean but would mystify a first time charter client.

2026 Book Reviews

 Non-Fiction

• Science Under Seige
• Cosmos
• Grunt
• The Sexual Evolution
• A Marriage At Sea
• The Escape
• Jan Ullrich - The Best That Never Was
• Notes on Being a Man

Fiction

• Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance
• Codex
• The Housekeeper and the Professor

Graphic Novels

• Batman by Grant Morrison

Re-read: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Mainteneance

 One of the perils of reading books to your kids in an effort to mold their tastes is that while they might not take to the reading, you're going to get sucked in and re-read the book. Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance was something I started reading to Boen in an effort to get him to stop reading easier books. I got him a couple of chapters into it and to my surprise it was surprisingly easy reading --- the thing about having done many bicycle tours by this point in his life, the touring aspects of the book were completely comprehensible and enjoyable for Boen.

I enjoyed the book on this reading, even getting into the section on the various philosophers that I'd always tried to zip through as fast as I could. What's interesting for me on this reading was the considerable emphasis on academic life. At no point do we get any motivation from Pirsig's narrator as to why he spent all that time teaching. It's quite clear that after his nervous breakdown he was capable of holding on to other jobs like technical writing.

Another aspect of the book that comes to mind was how uninterested Pirsig's narrator was in systemic answers. At the time of publication the United States was comparatively wealthy compared to the rest of the world, and hence the narrator had the luxury of assuming that physical well being could be taken for granted. In the current political environment that's not quite possible, and the book provides no solutions and even seems to try to move away from seeking such solutions.

To the extent that craftsmanship has become devalued in modern society in favor of an ever bigger emphasis on the use of AI to achieve goals with minimum effort, it's quite clear that the book failed to influence society in a better direction. I suppose it's too much to expect a book, any book to influence society to any such extent. One can only fantasize about a society that takes the tenets described by the book to a greater extent.

Review: Cosmos

 Boen was resisting learning math, so I bought him Cosmos, A Spacetime Odyssey and we started watching it together. Bowen got really into it, and I bought him Cosmos: Possible Worlds as well, and all that reminded me that I owned the original Carl Sagan book and then I read that as well.

It would not be an exaggeration to say that my interest in science and decision to become a scientist was driven by the original TV series. I will say that there's an elegance and sense of wonder conveyed by the Cosmos TV shows that I do not find in other documentaries. Xiaoqin's been watching various PBS series, and nobody comes close to Carl Sagan or Neil Degrasse Tyson as hosts. Their enthusiasm for science comes right through.

Not only is Cosmos a science documentary, it's also a history of science documentary. I love the episode about Clair Paterson fighting the oil/gas industry to make leaded gasoline a thing of the past. The obvious parallels to the failed climate change accords is stark. It's also how prescient Carl Sagan was about the need to popularize science in this parable about the library of Alexandria:

The permanence of the stars was questioned; the justice of slavery was not. Science and learning in general were the preserve of a privileged few. The vast population of the city had not the vaguest notion of the great discoveries taking place within the Library. New findings were not explained or popularized. The research benefited them little. Discoveries in mechanics and steam technology were applied mainly to the perfection of weapons, the encouragement of superstition, the amusement of kings. The scientists never grasped the potential of machines to free people.* The great intellectual achievements of antiquity had few immediate practical applications. Science never captured the imagination of the multitude. There was no counterbalance to stagnation, to pessimism, to the most abject surrenders to mysticism. When, at long last, the mob came to burn the Library down, there was nobody to stop them. (kindle loc 5565)

 Obviously, I'm very happy to see my kids being exposed to the influences I was when growing up. I'm really sad that the US is trending to become an anti-science society as warned by Carl Sagan. But as long as we can find scientists who're willing to stand up and explain to the general population why this stuff is relevant I can hold out hope that as the consequences of ignoring science become more and more obvious we can have a return to sanity. One thing that the scientific community has completely fallen down on is its failure to reward and award prestige to the people doing the important work.

For the newer TV shows, I found Possible Worlds to be less interesting --- it has quite a bit more speculative stuff, and I didn't feel like it was as strong about science history. Nevertheless both kids watched both shows and it was a good use of my Google video credits. Recommended!

Review: Science Under Seige

 Science Under Siege is the account of the authors' experience working as researchers in both climate science and vaccines, both of whom have suffered death threats (both authors have needed police protection at their houses), widespread industry attempts to discredit them and attempts to intimidate them (not to mention online smear campaigns and publicity aimed at causing them to lose their jobs).

As you can imagine, this is a depressing book to read, and it took me many days and multiple pauses because it was distressing. The book points out that there are several actors that have to get rid of the professional science/educated class in order to achieve their goals (which are largely to retain their wealth):

• plutocrats (rich people)
• petro-states (Russia, the Arabic states, and obviously oil producing states such as Texas, Alberta)
• propagandists (who make their money off being paid by the above as well as by hawking alternative medicines)

It's very interesting to me that after hearing Carl Sagan and Neil Degrasse Tyson continually dispasraged by science snobs, these are the first two bona-fide scientists who referred to Carl Sagan as "great." I agree with them. In a world where the public has little to no science education in school (even in Singapore, the science education was abysmal), TV shows like Cosmos was what got me into science and enthusiastic about science. Science communications and education is essential or the electorate will lose their support for science, given how much more powerful these other agents of society are.

The details in the book are pretty telling, where the one of the authors were accused of making money off selling vaccines even though their vaccines were given away for free for no commercial return. And obviously climate denial has been a thing for ages. The authors do point out that despair is not an appropriate reaction --- that's what the opponents want you to do --- is to give up and do nothing. They also point out that mainstream newspapers like the New York Times have in recent years gone from caring more about accuracy and correctness to only caring about "balance." As a result, the lab leak theory (which apparently does not have much support from real scientists) for COVID19 was given more credence than it should have been.

The end of the book has the authors showing off their geek creds by analogizing their battle against misinformation and anti-science with the plot of The Lord of the Rings --- except in this case they're not expecting the white wizard to come in and save them.

On reflection, ultimately the reason science will eventually win is that nature doesn't care whether you believe in scientific theories. The consequences of ignoring climate science is already being felt today, and the consequences of not getting vaccinated are going to be pretty severe as well. The American public that has bought into anti-vaccine and anti-climate propaganda are going to be in for a very painful few decades.

You should read this book. It's not going to be fun reading but it's essential.

Review: Batman by Grant Morrison

 Grant Morrison won Eisner Awards, so I had high expectations of his Batman book. I came away quite disappointed --- clearly, I've aged out of the audience for this. The first thing is that the collection is badly organized, so you're getting fragments of the story out of order or with connecting stories taken out. That made it quite challenging to stay engaged and interested throughout the reading.

The second issue is that you've got someone introduced as Bruce Wayne's son. By the middle of the book you realize there's no way Bruce Wayne is a secret identity --- everyone seems to know that he's Batman! At no point do we ever get the feeling that Batman is competent. He seems to be bewildered, reacting to events rather than anticipating them.

Then there's the mystical stuff involving Ra's al Ghul and his daughter, and that storyline was never very attractive to me. I checked this book out of the library and am glad I didn't pay money for this.

Books of the Year 2025

 I read 72 books this year, which is more than my usual count, probably because I started reading more graphic novels again, which tend to read fast. The best book I read this year was probably Twitter and Tear Gas. If you want to understand why the civil rights movement and the labor movement won, while "occupy wall street" and the "arab spring" failed, this is the book to read. Zeynep Tufekci's writing is worth reading wherever you can find it. It's rare to find a book where I regretted checking it out from the library instead of buying it, and this book is exceptional. Other exceptional non-fiction were Abundance and The Woman Behind the New Deal. I will admit that I treated those two books as escapist fiction into a world where the American people actually elected leaders who could do good things.

The best fiction I read this year was Exhalation, but of course that was a re-read, so it shouldn't count. The best novel that was new to me was probably Norwegian Wood. It got me to read more Haruki Murakami, though that binge didn't last. A runner up would be A Widow for One Year.

The best graphic novel I read was Flashpoint. It's an excellent story and very much worth your time, even if you're not normally into superheroes.

I only got through one Audio Book this year, The Power Broker. It's well worth your time and you should read it in conjunction with Abundance to see how the American system went from being capable of doing amazing feats of construction in New York City to being barely able to build a toilet for $1 million in San Francisco. It's not for bad reasons, but you still wish that the pendulum hadn't quite swung all the way.

Here's to another year of great reading!