Montana/Glacier National Park 2021 Index Page

 With both adults vaccinated, in late June 2021 we finally felt safe enough to travel. We didn't think the kids could keep their masks on the plane for a transatlantic flight, so we opted for visiting Glacier National Park. This is the index page for the day to day travelogue.

Full Photo Album

• June 24th->25th: Prologue
• June 26th: Mt Aeneas
• June 27th: Going to the Sun Highway and Hidden Lake Overlook
• June 28th: Avalanche Lake
• June 29th: Two Medicine to Upper Two Medicine
• June 30th: Upper Medicine to Noname Lake
• July 1st: Noname Lake to Two Medicine Boat Launch
• July 2nd: Whitewater Rafting
• July 3rd: Bowman and Kintla Lakes
• July 4th: Cabinet Mountains
• July 5th-6th: Ross Creek Scenic Area and Epilogue
• Tips and Tricks

Equipment Reviews:

• Day Hiking Glacier National Park and Western Montana
• Camping Solar Shower Bag: 5 gallons
• Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1
• Clevermade Collapsible Cooler

2021 Glacier National Park: June 27th - Going to the Sun Road and Hidden Lake Overlook

 After doing laundry in the morning, I got back in time to pick up the kids and then drive to the rendezvous location to pick up Arturo. Both Arturo and Peter had gotten entry tickets, so Arturo could do the switchero: get into my car wearing a mask, get us through the entry gate, and then get off and get back into Peter's car. We caught up, and I told him about the book we'd use to do that wonderful hike the day before. "Oh, so it was you who checked out that book. No wonder I couldn't get it." It spoke volumes that both of us never even considered buying the book rather than checking it out from the library.

To our surprise, there was no 2.5 hour wait time to get into the park as feared. We basically just zipped through the checkpoint. To my dismay, there was also no hang tag. We would have to show ID and the entry ticket every day we wanted into the park! Well, that meant we had to make the most of the one day we had.

Driving along the Going to the Sun highway, we saw e-bikes, which was the only vehicle allowed without an entry ticket, but bicycles were required to be off the road between 11am and 4pm, so there was definitely a short time window for them as well! The road itself is spectacular, and the kids begged to get off and see the weeping wall. I'd never been in the park in July before, and the amount of water coming off the mountains was nothing short of spectacular!

At the Logan Pass visitor center, we parked the car. Because we'd started the day so late, I decided that the best hike for the day was the Hidden Lake Overlook. I had hopes to make it all the way to Hidden Lake, but given how much snow I'd seen the day before I wasn't hopeful.

We had just parked the car and walked over to the curb when someone told us that there were bighorn ship across the street! We walked over and sure enough, there was a herd of bighorn sheep grazing, just below the snow. That was pretty exciting.

I had told Xiaoqin before the trip that Glacier National Park was the only place in the US where the scenic beauty could match that of the Swiss Alps, and on that day, the Hidden Lake overlook did not make a liar out of me.

The kids were delighted by the outlook of snow in late June, and went about playing in the snow, which meant that the hike was slow progress.

Xiaoqin, despite her hiking sticks, felt nervous about walking in the snow, and the crowd didn't make her feel better, as she saw one after another ill-equipped tourist slip, slide and fall, though of course, on snow the most that could do was to make your pants wet.

After a couple of miles she decided to turn around with the kids. The kids were happy enough to play in the snow, so but I opted to keep going, as the scenic beauty was one I could not turn down, and I was confident that I could make it up to at least the overlook and back without them having to wait for too long.

Sure enough, once over the hump, the trail became much less snowy, though no less beautiful. At the overlook, however, the view of the partially-iced up Hidden Lake was something to behold, as was the mountain goat and mountain marmot.

I reveled in the beauty of the place, snapping photo after photo, and then turned around and hiked back. This time, I remembered my mountaineering training and post-holed down at speed with stability, depending on the waterproofing on my Columbia Montrail to keep my feet dry, which they did.

Back at the car, we left the crowded parking lot, went through a tunnel, and found a pullout with such scenic beauty that we were content to eat lunch there, staring at the waterfalls coming down the mountain.

Post-lunch, we visited the Jackson Glacier Overlook, right next to which was the Gunsight Lake trailhead, upon which I had taken my parents backcountry camping for the first time way back in 1994. That was the trip that converted them to backcountry camping, having complained every mile to the Gunsight Lake campground, only to shut up when a mountain goat greeted them at the entrance, and when that night, the moon lit up the surrounding mountains in layers and elk bugled in the distance, they had the temerity to ask me why I had only booked the place for one night!

Going down to St Mary's we stopped again for photos but the kids were done with hiking for the rest of the day, so we turned around and drove back to the Apgar visitor center, where I wanted to scout out the location of the backcountry permit office. It was a good thing I did, because at the visitor center, I learned two things: (1) the backcountry permit office was in Apgar village proper, not at the Apgar visitor center, and (2) if I wanted a chance to get my ideal itinerary, I'd better show up at 6:00am, not 7:30am! I scouted around and found the backcountry permit office, and resolved to show up at 6:00am the next morning. The forecast was for 100F heat in the valleys as low as 4000' (e.g., Bowman Lake), and the itinerary that was given me was Cracker Lake, which had no trees and would have been cooking hot, in addition to being a dead end so we'd be stuck there two nights with nothing to do in between. 

That night, Xiaoqin picked Cowboy Up restaurant in Somers for dinner. They had outdoor seating but it was hot, and the owner was packing heat, and not the kind used for cooking. nevertheless, the food was awesome and we ate everything with relish. I was very pleased with the food!

Review: Lithium

 Lithium is the story of the medical uses of lithium salts, its discovery of the application of it to bipolar disorder by John Cade in Australia, and its long journey towards acceptance. What comes through is that even after the discovery, the use of lithium and the scientific approach to it faced multiple obstacles, chiefest of which was that since it was a common substance pharmaceutical companies had no incentive to push it or do studies on it.

The lack of scientific studies on it was more surprising, but maybe it shouldn't have been. Unlike researchers, clinical practitioners don't particularly care to do randomized control trials if something can be shown to work. In fact, many considered it unethical to give patients a placebo if someone truly needed it a drug.

The book's quite long winded, and doesn't quite cover many of the scientific details behind why and how lithium actually works, which I found quite disappointing. It does make a big deal of how the clinical dose is also very close to the toxic dose, but again, no details there as to how sensitive the dosage is, or how the hospitals/clinicians monitored its patients.

I enjoyed the book but wouldn't consider it a good use of time because of the above mentioned factors.

Glacier National Park 2021: June 26th Mt Aeneas

 The morning came, and we drove up again on another dirt road to get to the trail head, this time it was even steeper and more washboarded, but the car was lightly loaded and we were in no hurry. The trailhead was surprisingly full, and we had to park down the road from the official parking lot, which was named Camp Misery. The boys were excited that they could  see snow by the side of the trail, and from then on any time there was snow on the trail I would get pelted with an icy snowball.

The hike started up some non-descript woods, but soon we were granted views of the Flathead Valley, with wide open spaces. The morning had started out warm and was getting warmer. 

At the intersection with Birch Lake we had to choose, and the trails were all marked with numbers (like all Montana trails that weren't in the National Park) None of the trail signs came with destination markers, and the map in the book was just as useless. Looking at the official map now, the correct move was to follow trail 68 and then split right after that, but that was definitely not in the book's map. Instead, we made the fateful choice to follow everyone else up 717 to Mt Aeneas, which would have taken us to the Picnic Lakes anyway!

After a quarter mile we ran into a bunch of hikers who told us they did not see a trail that went to the Picnic lakes. Nobody seemed to have a good map. But they told us the trail was worth it, and that there were goats at the microwave tower.

Sure enough, once at the Microwave tower, we saw a goat. We were told that an entire herd of them were there. We broke out lunch and stared at the area, including the Picnic Lakes, which were ice and snowbound. Indeed, some snowboarders had shown up with snowboards and had snowboarded down the incredibly steep sides and then climbed back up with the snowboards.

We debated whether to pushed on to the Aeneas summit, since there didn't seem to be a way down to the Picnic Lakes that didn't look dangerous. The kids were tired. The decision was seemingly made for us, when after lunch, hikers came down from the summit to warn us away as a grizzly bear was sighted on the trail to the summit! Now Boen was determined to see the grizzly bear if he had a chance!

After a bit of waiting, the hikers who'd been isolated at the summit came down and told us the grizzly was chasing the mountain goats, and had then dashed down the other side of the ridge. We were still nervous about going, but more hikers showed up and proceeded to hike up the trail, which meant that we would have warning if the bear were to return. The goats from the summit also sauntered slowly back down towards the microwave tower, so now Boen and Bowen were both emboldened.

The hike up looked easy, and was much less scary than many ridge walks that I had done, but both Bowen and Xiaoqin were feeling a bit worn out. That left me and Boen to finish the hike to the summit, which revealed a peek into the Hungry Horse reservoir and Handkerchief Lake.

At the summit, Boen caught a lady bug, and then we proceeded down, only to find that Bowen and Xiaoqin had gotten a second wind and decided to summit after all. Boen and I hiked down to the microwave tower to wait, and the others caught up with us shortly. The hike down was unev
entful except for seeing a family with 2 adults with pistols strapped to their sides.

We had an early dinner at the Flathead Lake Brewing Company, with excellent burgers. Returning to the resort, we borrowed the paddleboards for a quick paddleboard. Others were also paddleboarding, but falling off their boards. They watched with surprise as I took both kids out onto the Lake on one paddleboard with no incident. I told them that they just needed more people on their paddleboards.

We made arrangements to meet with Arturo the next morning at 9:00am, for our access to Glacier National Park's Going to the Sun Road! Xiaoqin made noises about running out of laundry, so I also searched for a laundromat opened early so I could do laundry.

Glacier National Park 2021: Prologue

 When considering our summer vacation this year, we had several constraints. The big one was that we didn't expect to be able to have the kids keep their masks on for the entire time during a transatlantic flight. We also didn't anticipate the kids getting vaccinated by then, being 6 and 9. Finally, we wanted to take advantage of the July 5^th and 6^th long weekend. I'd originally proposed driving up to Boise Idaho and working remotely, but my wife didn't want to do it.

I figured this was a good year to do some domestic travel. I'd always loved Glacier National Park, but I'd never actually visited it during the summer during the prime backpacking season. The kids loved back-country camping, so I joined in the lottery to reserve a backcountry camping spot. I lost the lottery big time, getting my reservation confirmation only in mid May, and then went about booking lodging around my backcountry permit, only to discover that much of the prime lodging was already taken. I did what I could, but then also discovered to my dismay that Glacier National Park had now instituted an entry-permit system similar to Yosemite's, and all the entry permits were already taken. I was now officially soured on the pandemic having driven so many people to visit National Parks instead of going to New York City, Malls, or Movie Theaters like they were supposed to. Fortunately, Arturo was also going to be there at the same time, and he had 2 permits. If it was anything like Yosemite's, they would give us a hang tag for the car and once he got us the permit we would be good for the week.

Arriving late at night on June 24^th, we walked our luggage down to the airport hotel and slept. At breakfast the next morning, a fellow tourist heard Boen and I talk about visiting Glacier National Park, and walked up to our table with a canister of bear spray. "Would you like this? It's never been used!" I never would have considered buying one, but sure, I'd take it for free!

After breakfast, I walked across the street and proceeded to try to pick up a rental car, but not before the rental car administrator convinced me to upgrade to a Subaru Outback SUV rather than using the Fiat 500-sized they were about to give me. It was an extra $40 a day (after sales tax, etc), but it turned out to be an excellent choice. We loaded everything into the car, which barely fit, and then drove off to Idaho's Target for some supplies, including a cooler, various picnic food, and drinks.

I'd already picked out a hike for the first day prior to arriving at Flathead Lake Resort: Diamond and Cliff Lake. On the map it looked like it wouldn't be too far out of the way, but in practice, it was a huge off pavement detour. Nevertheless, we arrived safe and sound and I got practice playing around with the SUV off pavement. It handled very well and I could see why many of my outdoor friends loved the Subaru.

We ate a quick lunch at Diamond Lake, and then hiked up over to Cliff Lake. The parking lot was full but we didn't see anyone at Diamond Lake, which made me curious, and as we arrived at Cliff Lake we could see that a large church group had taken over the lake side. The group leader offered to take a photo of our family, and I assented, and while he shot the photo I noticed the pistol strapped over his chest. Another member of his party was similarly dressed, which made me feel just a little uncomfortable but I tried not to let it show. Neither my wife nor kids noticed!

The hike back down was just as pretty as the hike up, but we were now several hours behind schedule, and now the drive down to Flathead Lake felt tiring, beautiful though the countryside was. We arrived at the Flathead Lake Resort, with no one to greet us and no apparent way to contact the staff. I eventually found the text message with the internet wifi password and got enough connectivity to send off a text message, whereupon a staff member showed up to tell us which cottage we were in and we were supposed to just walk in and grab the key. She recommended a local place for dinner and we went over and grabbed dinner, texting Arturo as to plans to meet tomorrow.

However, it was a misunderstanding—he was planning to arrive not on the 25^th, but on the 26^th, and so we would get access to the park only on the 27^th!

Once again, I turned to the book in search of a nice hike to do on the 25^th, and found the Picnic Lakes or Birch Lakes, which seemed like nice hikes. I told Arturo that we had a plan and not to worry, and we made plans to start as early as possible.

Review: Day Hiking Glacier National Park and Western Montana

 I thought about buying a map for my visit to Glacier National Park, but the problem with modern trail hiking maps is that they don't actually provide any opinions as to which routes are more scenic. For that, I usually turn to guidebooks, and the cheap guy in me borrowed Day Hiking Glacier National Park from the library. It turned out to be a great find.

The book makes some odd choices. For instance, a 1 mile hike (Ross Creek Scenic Area) is included, but the popular Two Medicine Loop is not. That's OK. To a large extent, no guidebook can be comprehensive, and I would much rather that the author tell you about hikes that nobody else is going to tell you about than repeat ad nauseum things you already know.

I love the book's organization.  Up front, there's a chart with a list of the hikes tabulated by scenic beauty (author's opinion), difficulty (also author's opinions) distance, kid-friendliness, dog-friendliness, wildflowers, berries, waterfalls, cycling, etc. It's all separated nicely by geography (so you could guess at the driving times to the trailhead), and there's a handy map so you could see where everything was.

We did several hikes in the book: Diamond Lakes, Ross Creek, Geiger Lakes, Hidden Lake Overlook, Jewel Lakes Basin (which turned into Mt Aeneas), and Avalanche Lake. 2 of them was well known, but the others were obscure but very pretty in their own way. All but the well-known hikes involved a lot of dirt driving to get to the trailhead, so it's best if you have an SUV.

The book does provide recommended seasons, but the Jewel Lakes Basin Loop hike had an incorrect map and obscure directions that turned out to be untenable anyway because the lakes we wanted to get to were frozen over! You can't really blame the author for that, and the frozen-ness made it really pretty.

Given that Glacier National Park  now demands ticketed entry which can be hard to get, I think this book is an essential companion to any summer visit to the region. I met a few others who used the book on my trip, and we all agreed that it's a great book.

Recommended.

Review: Deadliest Enemy

 There's been a plethora of books about the pandemic, but I wanted one that wasn't written to cash-in on the COVID19 pandemic, so picked Deadliest Enemy. Written in 2017, it covers many of the topics relevant to the pandemic, and is impressively prescient:

Shortly before the 2009 H1N1 pandemic, CIDRAP undertook a national survey of hospital pharmacists and intensive care and emergency department doctors, as we detailed in chapter 18. The update of that survey identified more than 150 critical lifesaving drugs for all types of diseases frequently used in the United States, without which many patients would die within hours. All of them are generic and many, or their active pharmaceutical ingredients, are manufactured primarily in China or India. At the beginning of the COVID-19 outbreak, sixty-three were already unavailable to pharmacies on short notice or on shortage status under normal conditions—just one example of how vulnerable we are. And as illness and quarantines idle Chinese factories and disrupt or shut down shipping routes, it won’t matter how good a modern hospital in a major Western city is if the bottles and vials on the crash cart are empty. (kindle loc 112)

It turns out that all those comments about how nobody could have predicted this are false. Plenty of people have thought about pandemics, come up with plans and suggestions, and none of them were done, because as noted in multiple books, public health is simply not something that Americans care to think about or want to spend money on. The shortage of PPEs, etc were all predcitable:

 Project BioShield is now part of BARDA. Its annual appropriated budget must now cover the development of all CBRN measures. In 2016, the budget was approximately $1.8 billion, with no dedicated funds for emerging infectious diseases, including vaccines or drug treatments. And the need to go to Congress and ask for new money every year has all but killed the possibility of major long-term projects, such as the development of game-changing influenza vaccines. While I respect the efforts of the BARDA staff, the way they have to do business is just not sufficient for what we need to obtain the vaccines for worldwide pandemics or epidemics of critical regional importance. (kindle loc 1442)

Even today, in a sort of post pandemic future, I don't see any movement to increase public health funding, or build an enduring public institution (or reform the CDC) to deal with future pandemics. I wonder what it would take to make that happen. Nevertheless, this book elucidates all the issues and then some. Well worth your time.

Long Term Review: Matador Beast Backpack

 I've been using the Matador Beast 28 for a year, and I've been surprised at how much I use it. I use it as a hydration pack when mountain biking, and I use it for day hikes (and regretted not bringing it with me on my recent Glacier National Park family trip), and after experimenting with other methods of commuting with a laptop, I one day tried putting my Macbook 16 into it and it fitted snugly (in the hydration pocket) and felt better than either a messenger bag or my long-running Dell backpack. The side pockets turned out to be useful for carrying a Zojiroshi vacuum coffee mug as well as the matador packable blanket, and the outside daisy chain loops have been used so often that I've broken one of them.

Matador has stopped making this backpack, replacing it with a much more expensive version. However, the Chinese factory that made this backpack for them knows a good thing when it sees it, and now sells it under the 4Monster brand on Amazon for $40, which is a fantastic price. If you prefer the original branding, Sierra Design has it for $70, which is still a good deal.

It is rare that one piece of equipment I use is so good that the hassle of constantly unpacking it and repacking it for another purpose is worth it. That makes this backpack highly recommended. I'm seriously thinking of ordering the 4Monster so I don't have to constantly unpack and repack it.

Review: Journey to the Edge of Reason

 Journey to the Edge of Reason is Stephen Budiansky's biography of Kurt Godel. If you're a computer scientist or mathematician, you've probably at least heard of Godel's incompleteness theorum, but it's rare to hear much else about him or his life. This book reveals why: his wife, Adele, burnt a bunch of letters between him and his family, as well as between her and him, and the book reveals that Godel suffered from hypochondriasis and possibly paranoia:

Gödel’s tragically self-defeating reaction to the fear of never having enough time for his work (“always take on only very little,” he repeatedly admonished himself) was to insist that he must do nothing, however trivial, without first settling on a clear decision and justification for it, which only sank him further into the abyss of indecision and rigidity. “In general, check every hour what you are doing and whether you are adhering to the program (maybe work using a clock at the desk),” he wrote, and sought refuge in an exacting adherence to formality in his clothes, his correspondence, the neatness of his workspace, as a buttress against the disorder of life. Only Gödel could turn the pursuit of moderation and balance in life into unbalanced obsession. (kindle loc 2816)

After his early success (his incompleteness proof was his first post-doctoral work, and his PhD thesis was also similarly impressive), Godel's productivity dropped and eventually worked on Leibniz's philosophy instead, but his conscientiousness made it so that he was still actively providing help and advise in mathematical circles, and it was apparently quite sought after. Ironically, his placement at the Princeton Institute of Advanced Studies with its freedom from the need to publish or teach might have been responsible. Budiansky quotes Menger:

At no time in his life did Gödel need intellectual stimulation to conceive and develop original and unexpected ideas. But he needed a congenial group suggesting that he report his discoveries, reminding and, if necessary, gently pressing him to write them down. All this he had at the beginning of his stay in Princeton. . . . and he presumably could have found such support later. But apparently he never looked for it, and no one seemed to volunteer. The fact is that I could not observe anything of the sort in the 1950s. Rather, it soon became clear to me that he wrote up many brilliant ideas only for his desk drawer if at all. From the point of view of the outside world, his incomparable talent was lying lamentably fallow. (kindle loc 4109)

A mathematician to the end, however, when he was trying to cheer up John Von Neumann as the latter was dying, he  posed the question of P vs NP:

As the logician Gerald Sacks remarked with only slight exaggeration, “I noticed over the years that Gödel’s way of cheering up a dying person was to send him a logical or mathematical puzzle.” But it was also a manifestation of his own denial and fears of serious illness. In his last letter to von Neumann he expressed blithe confidence in his friend’s imminent and complete recovery, before going on to pose what would be one of the most fundamental questions of computer science. Gödel’s letter to his dying colleague was apparently the very first formulation of the so-called “P vs. NP” problem, which offered a striking analogy of his Incompleteness Theorem to the field of computing. “P” is the set of problems easy to solve, for example multiplication and addition. “NP” is the set of problems for which an efficient algorithm exists for checking a given solution, but finding the solution may or may not be easy, such as factoring a large number, solving a sudoku puzzle, or discovering a proof for a formula. (Kindle Loc 4316)

 Godel's life was also characterized by an intense political naiveness, where despite all the signs of brewing war and Nazi party takeover, he traveled back and forth between Princeton and Vienna until it was almost too late for him to leave (he was not Jewish, but was tainted by his work which had been politicized by the Nazis). When he finally took his US citizenship exam, Einstein had to keep him from disqualifying himself:

“Now, Mr. Gödel, where do you come from?” “Where I come from? Austria.” “What kind of government did you have in Austria?” “It was a republic, but the constitution was such that it finally was changed into a dictatorship,” Gödel replied. “That is very bad,” the judge said. “Of course that could not happen in this country.” “Oh, yes,” Gödel exclaimed. “I can prove it!”54 Forman, Einstein, and Morgenstern immediately joined in shutting Gödel up before he could say anything further about his pet idea, and the rest of the ceremony went off without incident. (kindle loc 3905)

One of the unexpected side stories in this book is Godel's relationship with Einstein, and guest star appearances by luminaries such as John Von Neumann:

“The phenomenal feature of von Neumann,” recalled Dean Eisenhart’s son Churchill, who was studying mathematics at Princeton the year the Institute opened, “was that he could go to these parties and party and drink and whoop it up to the early hours of the morning, and then come in the next morning at 8:30, hold class, and give an absolutely lucid lecture. What happened is that some of the graduate students thought that the way to be like von Neumann was to live like him, and they couldn’t do it. (kindle loc 2633)

The book covers Godel's tragedy and his final death via starvation and malnutrition simply because his paranoia kept him from taking any medical advice from doctors, whom he suspected of trying to poison him. His wife would taste his food before he would eat it because he kept suspecting others of trying to poison him.  All in all, it covers the life of someone whom I'd never heard much about. Recommended!

Review: Light & Motion Vis 500

 There was a Prime Day sale on the highly rated Light & Motion Vis 500, low enough for me to replace the much used (and now worn out) Blitzu Gator on the triplet. Most of my complaints about lights usually revolve around the mount, so I was very impressed when the mount came with an easy on/off rubber strap, and a fantastic retention pin that was easy to use. Once mounted the mount was tight, and worked great.

The actual light operation was awful. A lot of it can be attributed to the worthless "lock" mode. To turn on the light, you have to press and hold the button so it turns on. Hold on to that button too long, however, and it activates "lock" mode. That means the light won't turn on no matter what. So you find yourself flipping the light from lock to unlock and never being able to turn the light on consistently. One day, I found myself unable to turn on the light whatsoever. Maybe it was not charged, but the little LED would flip from one side to the other, indicating that I was doing something. Charging the light did nothing.

I called the customer support line, and Light & Motion's voice messaging system (in the middle of the day) said because of the pandemic they weren't taking phone calls (apparently COVID19 spreads through cell networks and telephone wires --- who knew?). They gave me an e-mail address which bounced instead.

What a shitty customer experience, and what a horribly designed light. I went back to the Blitzu Gator, which is now $10. The mount was so promising, but the horrible UI and complete lack of customer service was a deal breaker.

Review: SQR Saddlebag Quick Release System

 I've always used saddlebags by tying them to the saddlebag loops on my bike. I recently decided to try visiting the office, now that I'm fully vaccinated, and stuck my Macbook Pro 16 into my Carradice Camper Longflap, and then rode it. The Camper swallows everything I can throw at it, and the Macbook was no exception, but then what I discovered that the saddlebag then hits my thigh as I ride. (I'd previously never had the problem on tour, because I'd never stuck such a large flat, rigid object in the saddlebag before) And before you say it, yes, saddlepack systems like the Revelate Terrapin are all the rage for cycle touring, but none of those will ever fit a laptop of any size, let alone the giant-ass inconveniently designed Macbook Pro 16.

OK, let's try the SQR system. It retails for about $50 after shipping from England, and boasts the additional advantage of doubling as a quick release with a handle. It was worth a try. The device is a little tricky --- you have to remove the saddle and slide it on along with the spring and then position it facing directly backwards. But I installed it without a problem, and discovered that I had enough seatpost both before and after the offset part of my Thomson offset seatpost, so those of you with offset seatposts don't have to worry --- even if it doesn't fit below the kink, it will fit above the kink!

In the lowest position, the bag clears the rear wheel, and doesn't touch the thigh. But it turns out that you can lift it higher, to the offset section of the Thomson seat post with no problems. The problem is that unless you stuff the bag full of stuff (like on tour), it sags, so I had to do the cross-strap trick. But that made the radar unusable.

So I stole my wife's beautiful Sackville Bag, and lo and behold, no sag, no problem. It truly is a much better designed bag than the Carradice (as it ought to be, for $100 more!). It even clears the fender!

But as you can see, the Macbook sticks out like a tongue. And to be honest, the Sackville was so small that it didn't need the SQR block, which weighs 149g for the block, 248g for the frame, and 7g for the strap handle, adding nearly a pound to the bike. So I guess I'll steal the Sackville bag for summer riding, and go back to my Timbuk2 for rainy rides where I need to carry the Macbook, which are rare now that I'm in a drought. Or maybe I'll find a way to downgrade to a smaller laptop that doesn't stick out.

Review: Camelbak Hot Cap Vacuum Mug

 REI had a sale for the Hot Cap Vacuum Mug for $5.73. The normal price on Amazon was around $15, so this was too good to pass up. 

The most important feature of this mug is that it fits in a standard size waterbottle cage. I tested it by riding up Montebello road and doing the dirt traverse over to Page Mill road, and the bottle was never in danger of falling out. The lid mechanism is kinda clunky --- no pulling over the valve with your teeth on this one. And if you do extended dirt riding, the lid will definitely get dirt thrown on it by the wheels. However, I discovered that when I started the ride with the mug half full, I'd finish the rest of the coffee by the time I got above the cloud and switched to water instead of coffee anyway.

The claim is that the mug will keep hot coffee hot for 6 hours. I don't know how Camelbak did their testing, but it must have not been on a bicycle bottle cage. At speeds between 6-20mph, after just an hour the coffee had cooled to nearly room temperature, and after 2 hours (admittedly with a  high speed descent through fog) any residual coffee was cold.

The bottle body has a wide mouth, making it easy to clean. The mouth is not quite wide enough, however, to use an aeropress on with its funnel. For car camping I think it'll be good (no 20mph descents will probably keep the coffee much warmer). It's a bit too heavy for anything but the shortest day ride.

There's a 20oz version, but I think for 20oz, it's better to get the mag chute version. That's because 20oz of anything is going last long enough for you to get to the dirt traverse, and the mag chute cap will keep the mouth piece clean. The trade off is that I'm not sure I could get the mag chute cap on and off while riding.

In any case, I wouldn't pay full price for the mug, but at $5.73 it's a good deal. Recommended.

Review: The Gardener and the Carpenter

 The Gardener and the Carpenter begins with an audacious declaration:

parenting is a terrible invention. It hasn’t improved the lives of children and parents, and in some ways it’s arguably made them worse. For middle-class parents, trying to shape their children into worthy adults becomes the source of endless anxiety and guilt coupled with frustration. And for their children, parenting leads to an oppressive cloud of hovering expectations. (pg. 24)

Her argument in the book is that the parenting approach assumes that parents can shape the outcome of a kid's childhood like a carpenter shapes a cabinet --- that what comes out on the other side is a virtuous, competent exemplar of humanity. Her contrasting approach is that parenting is like gardening --- you can provide all the resources needed for the plants in the garden, but they will do what they do. A plant might refuse to grow in one spot but a flower might spread out of its plot.

The preponderance of parenting books, like the preponderance of diet books, should, just by itself, be a sign of their futility; if any of them actually worked, that success ought to put the rest of them out of business. And the gap between private goals and public policy, vivid enough in the case of food, is a yawning chasm in the case of caring for children. A society that is obsessed with dieting has the highest obesity rate—a society obsessed with parenting has the highest child poverty rate. (pg. 25)

Gopnik has an even lower opinion of school than she has about parenting. She notes that schools do even more damage than parents in reducing curiosity, inquisitiveness, and depth:

in one study researchers gave parents and children a bowl of water and a bunch of objects and asked them to figure out why some things sink and others float. The middle-class highly schooled parents and children treated this like a school activity—they spent more time talking about how the lesson would proceed than they did about sinking and floating. The less advantaged parents, with much less schooling, actually talked more about the actual problem, and their children asked deeper, more conceptual questions. (pg. 132)

One of Gopnik's big emphasis is on the important of play. One of the themes in this book is that play is purposeless and looks like it accomplishes nothing in the short term, but in the long term, play improves all aspects of a mammal's overall ability to learn, both socially and intellectually. This is as big deal for success in a highly social environment:

As adults, the play-deprived rats have difficulty dealing with other rats, and their difficulties are instructive. They can do the same kinds of things as the rats who played. They know how to attack and defend, how to make overtures to others, and how to retreat. But they don’t know when to do what. Whether they are fighting or courting, they can’t react to the other rats in the swift, flexible, and fluid fashion of the roughhousing rats. They may sting like a bee, but they sure don’t dance like a butterfly. That ability to dance, to take in a complex social context at a glance and know how to respond to it intuitively, is what makes a rat, or a human being, so smart and sociable...the rats who had played when they were young still maintained the ability to change even once they had grown up—their brains were more plastic. Play didn’t help the rats to do any one thing, in particular. Instead, it helped them to learn to do many things in a more flexible, varied way. (pg. 153-154)

 Translating that to schooling, she observes that children behave differently when observing an experimenter who behaves like a teacher vs that one who behaves like a scientist:

When the experimenter activated the toy accidentally, the children were fascinated and they played. Just by randomly trying different actions they discovered all the things that the toy could do. But when the experimenter acted like a teacher, the children would squeak the beeper, and then squeak it again and again, ad nauseam, instead of trying something new...The children played with the toy longer, tried more different actions, and discovered more of the “hidden” features when the experimenter squeaked the beeper accidentally than they did when she deliberately tried to teach them. So teaching is a double-edged sword. The children were remarkably sensitive to the fact that they were being taught, just as we saw in previous chapters. But teaching seemed to discourage the children from discovering all the possibilities the toy had to offer. The children were more eager to imitate the teacher than to discover things themselves. (pg, 174)

She heavily criticizes  the American approach to play as sucking the joy out of everything:

contemporary middle-class parents may allow themselves license to play only if they are convinced that it is part of the work of parenting. There is a famously puritan streak in America. We have a knack for taking what are simple pleasures in other cultures, from food to walks to sex, and turning them into strenuous work projects. We follow a Mediterranean diet instead of just eating spaghetti and tomatoes, take aerobic hikes instead of after-dinner promenades, and practice The Joy of Sex instead of, well, the joy of sex. (pg. 177)

Turning her attention to society, Gopnik claims that schools should turn away from the "teaching" approach to the apprentice approach. She explains the attraction of sports and music as a result of the fact that those are taught in practice format, with constant, adult-provided feedback rather than with problem sets and textbooks:

Many of the most effective teachers, even in modern schools, use elements of apprenticeship. Ironically, though, these teachers are more likely to be found in the “extracurricular” classes than in the required ones. The stern but beloved baseball coach or the demanding but passionate music teacher let children learn this way. Poor, inner-city children have a tendency to focus on sports and music, even though these skills are far less likely than math or science to help them to actually make a living. Perhaps this reflects unrealistic cultural expectations. But I think it also reflects the fact that sports and music are much more likely to be taught through apprenticeship than math or science or literature...There is no particularly good reason why ballet or basketball should be taught through apprenticeship while science and math are not. As any scientist will tell you, our profession is as much a matter of hard-won skill as piano or tennis. In graduate school, where we really teach science, we use the same methods as a chef or a tailor. My students begin by writing up the easy part of a paper, or designing a substudy of a big grant, and slowly graduate to doing a completely original experiment themselves. And though I don’t exactly wield a wooden sword—or even a wastebasket—I’m told that my “track changes” comments on a student manuscript can be pretty ferocious...Imagine if we taught baseball the way we teach science. Until they were twelve, children would read about baseball technique and history, and occasionally hear inspirational stories of the great baseball players. They would fill out quizzes about baseball rules. College undergraduates might be allowed, under strict supervision, to reproduce famous historic baseball plays. But only in the second or third year of graduate school, would they, at last, actually get to play a game. If we taught baseball this way, we might expect about the same degree of success in the Little League World Series that we currently see in our children’s science scores...Schools aren’t institutions that promote discovery, and they aren’t centers of apprenticeship, either. Instead, what schools do best is teach children how to go to school. School-age children are fascinated by adult skills and inclined toward apprenticeship. It’s natural for them to imitate and practice the activities that are most important to the adults around them. In school, intentionally or not, that means paying attention, taking tests, and getting grades...By the time they arrive in our classes, many Berkeley undergraduates are absolute Matajuros of test-taking. It’s no wonder we’re gravely disappointed—and they’re resentfully surprised—when we ask them to actually be apprentice scientists or scholars instead. Skilled adults continue to face difficult challenges, of course, but passing exams isn’t one of them. Being the best test-taker in the world isn’t much help for discovering either new truths about that world or new ways of thriving in it. (pg. 186-190)

The problem with the apprenticeship model, of course, is that it's labor intensive. I've had the fortunate opportunity to mentor many bright kids as part of various internship programs. In no case could I have had the bandwidth to mentor more than a couple of interns at a time, and do a good job on it. You can't really scale that to the 1:40 or 1:20 teacher/student ratio that we see in most schools. But maybe the approach is to do away with schools completely and ship kids to work along with their parents for appropriate mentoring and teaching. Ok, that's not going to work and it's going to lead to even more inequity/inequality in society.

My takeaway from this book is as follows:

• Play with your kids. As in really play. Don't turn it into an educational experience. If your kids go to a conventional school, they're going to get plenty of schooling (Gopnik will say, Too much schooling!). But play is the one thing parents can provide that schools won't.
• Try to give them apprentice-ship opportunities. Give them small jobs, and scale it up from there as they gain competence. This is going to be hard --- they're going to screw up in the kitchen, while camping, or fixing a bicycle. I'm going to try to do this more going forward.
• Maybe kids should get more "bring your child to work" days.

Anyway, the book gave me lots to think about. Recommended.

Review: Nemo Tensor Sleeping Pad

 I sleep warm, so much so that I use a 30 year old North Face Blue Kazoo sleeping bag and think it's perfectly fine, despite it having lots a lot of warmth. But my wife sleeps cold, and never was comfortable on our camping trips, so when REI had a sale on the Nemo Tensor I bought one in the hopes that the R3.5 insulation (as opposed to the R1.3 on the Kylmit Static V2). When my wife couldn't go because of food poisoning, I stole the pad and used it.

The device comes with a pump sack. You attach it to the valve, and then blow into it gently and then roll it to inflate the pad. It took about 5-6 times to do so, and when you exceed the pressure the pump sack blows off the valve, preventing you from over-inflating the bag. It's nice and soft --- maybe too soft --- I got a back ache the next morning. But it's definitely warmer than the Klymit V2. There's a secondary valve that gets the pad deflated completely and to my surprise I got everything into the stuff sack without too much trouble. It's nice and light, and packs nicely, so no complaints otherwise.

Recommended.

Review: Camelbak Mag Chute Waterbottles

 There's an REI sale right now on the Camelbak Chute Mag Water Bottle. At the price they're being offered, it was worth getting the 12oz ones for the kids and a 32oz once for myself. These claim to keep water cold for about 24 hours, and after one use, I can't say that I can contradict the claims.

The innovative thing about these bottles is the double-cap. The lid is a wide cap, very similar in size to those found on the Nalgene bottles. These make the vessel itself easy to clean, and there's a second cap that unscrews and is captured by a clip (the "mag chute") for drinking. This second cap I discovered to my surprise, is not self-sealing. You have to screw it on tightly for it to not leak, something I discovered to my chagrin on a recent hike.

The carry handle is nice, though I wonder how practical it would be on a long hike. But I do notice people going on hikes just carrying these by the handles. For me, the handle is just a good way to clip it to my Matador Beast. I filled one with about 6 cubes of nice, poured 2 cans of soda in it, and the kids liked it so much that my bottle was empty by the middle of the hike. Because of the wide mouth, I could easily clean it after the hike. Note that the labels on these are contradictory: one of them said only the lid was dishwasher compatible, while the other said both vessel and lid are compatible. I just hand wash everything because it's so easy.

I would hesitate to use these on bicycles. By all accounts the 20oz bottles would fit on a bike, but unlike other cycling bottles, you probably couldn't use it while riding. There are many people who would stop to drink from a bottle, but I don't. (I don't even stop to eat most of the time)

At full price, there's no way I would pay for these. But at the current REI sale price ($5.73 for 12oz, $8.73 for 20oz), these are great. Recommended.

Review: Garmin InReach Mini

 I will admit that in all the times I've been backcountry camping, I've never actually needed an SOS device. That's a good thing --- there's actually a limited amount of help an SOS device can have --- for instance, a bear attack is going to happen too quickly for any amount of rescue to get to you. If you fall off a cliff or drown in a river, all a search and rescue service can do for you is to fish your dead body out of the water. And besides, Arturo carries one anyway, so I can mooch off him if I ever decide I need one. And for bicycle touring in Europe, your cell phone always works, so you don't care.

It turns out that the Garmin Inreach Mini will let you text message someone as long as you have a view of the sky. It also integrates with your phone and Garmin Fenix 5X, so if you're a Garmin user you're not even going to look at anything else, even though there are cheaper units out there. This past year, we've been doing quite a bit of mountain biking, and even some backpacking, and reading Garmin's 6000th inReach rescue made me realize that even people driving sometimes use it. With the memorial day sale at $300 each, the inReach Mini (which is the only one I really wanted because of its light weight), I decided the extra 3.5oz of weight on a backpacking trip is worth it.

The device arrived completely discharged, but after about 10 minutes of charging it responded, and powered on. Arturo helped me sync it with my phone, and then the computer to get the latest firmware and sign up for the plan, which was much more complicated than I expected it to be, but tolerable. I never figured out how to set presets, but a few test text messages worked.

This past camping trip, my wife got food poisoning at the last minute, so she had to stay an extra night at the hotel while I took both kids backpacking. The device worked in Yosemite backcountry, allowing me to text her at night when camping, and for her to ask questions (which I did not answer, since any overage would cost $0.50 per text). The one place it failed was when we got to the parking lot, I texted her that we were coming, and then put the backpack in the car. After we were all packed and driving out of the park, only then did the device complain that it couldn't send the text, because even inside an open car trunk wasn't sufficient for it to get signal. This is truly an outdoor only device.

The plan is expensive, but like all insurance, you carry it hoping never to need it. And if you're going to be in a national park with friends but not necessarily hiking together, it's useful for coordinating dinners or places to meet up, so this summer we might even pay up for the more expensive plan. Recommended.

Review: Beginners

 Beginners's subtitle makes zero reference to the most important part of the book, which is that it's actually a book about parenting. The book explores Tom Vanderbilt's urge to engage in the same activities as his daughter. So when his daughter decides to learn to play chess, he enrolls both of them in classes. When his daughter learns to swim, he embarks on vacations with her (and mommy) and engages in wild swimming.

This is such a radical move from the sights you see at all kids activities --- mommies and daddies staring into their phones or laptops doing work, while the kids participates in the learning activity, that I found it remarkable. I can think of countless examples of parents pushing their kids to learn piano and violin, etc., only to discover that the parent himself/herself has never had any urge to learn how to play music or (in the case of this book) learn how to sing!

Singing, like all music education, typically becomes an “elective” after sixth grade. All music participation drops, but particularly singing. Maybe because, unlike violin or piano, parents don’t equate it with academic achievement (for the record, a study at Canada’s Royal Conservatory found that voice students had a higher average IQ than piano students). (kindle loc 1258)

The book does go into stuff Vanderbilt does that has no bearing on parenting. In one example, he learns to draw (which on reflection is something that kids do, but he doesn't compare his results with his daughter's), and in another, he learns to make a wedding ring to replace the one he lost while surfing.

If I had one nit about the book, it's that it reads like a series of magazine articles (which it probably was) than a coherent book, but I enjoyed the variety of new stuff that he gets into, and how he embraces the idea that in many cases, you aren't learning to become an expert (i.e., none of this 10,000 hour stuff), but just to get to a point of competence so you can enjoy doing it, and not to mastery. That's something I think more people could embrace, though in competitive Silicon Valley culture that seems unlikely to happen.

Review: Ghost of Tsushima (PS5)

 I'm learning the professional game reviewers play games very differently from those of us with day jobs that don't involve games, so stuff that they find mediocre can turn out to be excellent. Ghost of Tsushima is one major example. The game play might not be considered anything out of the ordinary for a genre like "Assassin's Creed", but the game has many features that made it particularly playable:

• No individual mission lasts more than about 15 minutes, making it easy to play for short amounts of time. Conversely, you also have "just one more mission"syndrome in a big way
• There are no level gates for missions. This completely eliminated the grind. You don't have to the stuff you don't like, and you can pick and choose what you like to do.
• Leveling up is fast and easy, and resources plentiful. You can finish the game with the majority of the map undone and still hit the level limit
• Difficulty levels are tunable in the middle of a game or in the middle of an encounter. You never have to bang your head against the wall just because some game designer thought to punish you.
• Not all skills are important. You can pick your favorite one to spam/reuse, upgrade everything related to it, and have fun.
• The stories are reasonably well done, and not to repetitive.
• The production values are high, and nothing is an eyesore. Playing on a PS5, the responsiveness and speed of loading is so great.

Somewhere at Sony, there's a PM who decides what level of features and difficulty should be in a game. Whoever that person is, they're incredibly respectful of a busy dad's time, and this consistently makes Sony's platforms and first party games great to play.  I played this to the end and am still playing to clear the map. Recommended.

Review: The Sum of Us

 The Sum of Us has a pretty non-controversial thesis - that the world we live in is not a zero-sum world, that when we introduce benefits like Universal Healthcare, Paid Vacation for everyone, Sick Leave, not only do the poor people have better lives, even the wealthy people have better lives as well!

What's challenging, of course, is that since the 1970s, that's not been the dominant narrative, and so for the past 50 years, we've been reversing course on that. Today, the USA is nowhere close to better health and equity metrics compared to any of the other developed Western Nations.

The book does a good job of tracing what happened, in a slightly less depressing recap of events told in Democracy in Chains. Many communities had public swimming pools that were denied to black people, and of course when the courts ruled that non-whites had a legal right to the pools, rather than open them up to everyone, those same communities decided to fill in the pools or sell them to a private organization that could turn it into a private swimming club. (There was one in Sunnyvale, and I never even thought about why it was a private swimming club) As a result of that, not only are there fewer public American swimming pools, the pools that are left over are a far cry from what you see in other western Democracies, in spaciousness, facilities, and of course, water-slides.

The same obviously went for public schools, which of course, always struck me as insane that were funded by local property taxes, but McGhee points out that the white communities that run the school districts kept drawing and redrawing the school districts to keep the population of the school district white and wealthy. The irony, of course, is that (again, correlation is not causation) white students who do attend a more diverse school actually do better. (Again, it could be that parents who're willing to not segregate themselves are usually highly educated and so their kids would do well in school --- but this just illustrates that desegregation wouldn't have hurt those wealthy public school districts!)

The list goes on and on, and it's pretty depressing, but the last chapter of the book discusses how there's been recent community building in Maine, helping get rid of anti-immigrant, anti-non-white attitudes, and successfully passing medicaid expansion by ballot initiative, showing that the process can be reversed.

It's a great book, though tough going because of the many depressing sections. But well worth reading. Recommended.

Review: Camping Solar Shower Bag 5gallons

 I'm old enough to remember the Sunshower, which I never learned to setup properly. But with my wife balking at a 2 night camping trip, I saw the Camping Solar Shower for $9, and bought one. It's surprisingly light and comes with an economic low flow shower mode, and folds up nicely and packs into my backpack just fine.

What I discovered was that the handle hole is large enough to fit over some branches, so I didn't bother much with the flimsy string. Filling it takes more skill than you might expect: you have to keep dipping it in and out with a pumping action to fill the water bag. Bowen did that. On day 2, I got lazy and just used a running stream and only got it about half full.

As advertised, it takes about 3 hours of direct sunlight to get the water from freezing-lake cold to somewhat usable. The thermometer is misleading: it reads the temperature of the bag rather than the temperature of the water, so when it says 40C, the water is still only lukewarm inside.

To my surprise, both Bowen and Boen were much more enthusiastic about the camp shower than Xiaoqin was. They both ended up using all the warm water both nights of our backcountry trip. The shower runs for a surprisingly long time. It's well worth the weight if you're base camping, but for a point to point camping it was a bit much. I asked Bowen if he'd like to carry it next time and he said NO. But for car camping it's probably perfect. For the price, it comes recommended!