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Tuesday, April 28, 2026

April 6th: Cap Formentor


The last time I’d gotten to Mallorca, I’d ridden every road I could, but at the last minute Linus Gerdemann had informed me that I had neglected to include Cap Formentor. This time, I was determined to rectify that oversight. Rosie would join us today so Stephan and Otto had a chance to rest up in preparation for Tuesday’s cross island tour.


We rode North from the hotel, through the beach area of Port Pollenca before finding the main road to the Formentor lighthouse. Stephan had ridden this route earlier, and said that he’d never seen so many road cyclists on one road. Indeed, even though the hour wasn’t late there were cyclists in both directions (the route was an out and back).


After the first climb, the road descends almost all the way down to sea level before winding away around the Peninsula. As we started the second climb, Bowen rode up and said, “My shifter doesn’t work.” One look and it was obvious that his shift cable was a goner, along with the barrel adjuster on his downtube. Arturo happened along, which was fortunate. He ripped the cable away from the stop and make-shifted a knot. The chain settled onto 4th gear, which would let Bowen finish the ride albeit without the ability to shift.


To Bowen’s credit, he refused to let this obstacle stop him. He kept going on a single speed, demonstrating that even if he kept professing that he didn’t like riding, once he got started he had the will to finish. The ride passed through a tunnel, and then a final descent before a short climb to the lighthouse itself. The final approach had turned into a parking lot—there’s no metering for parking at the lighthouse, and despite it being a Monday the parking lot was already full and cars were now jammed up along the road, with many drivers making the ill advised decision to do a 3 point turn on a single road adding chaos to the clutter. While everyone agreed that the ride was gorgeous, we all agreed that the traffic was the least favorite thing about the ride.


I started descending from the lighthouse but then I heard Mark shout “Piaw, wait up!” A cyclist caught up to me and asked me if I had an 11s quick link. Normally I would have an extra quick link, but because Formentor was so short, I had swapped out my normal saddlebag for my extra small saddlebag which did not have any spare quick links! I was flattered that everyone thought that I was the kind of person who would have such spares and normally I did, but not today! I would remember much later that I actually did have a spare quick link in Xiaoqin’s saddlebag but she’d already gone on ahead!


The return felt far easier than the outbound leg of the journey. Part of it was that Xiaoqin was going to pace Bowen while I paced Boen. Boen had elected to bring his single bike on this trip and he was making the most of it, attacking each climb with vim and working for all he was worth, able to stay in any draft on the flat.


At the top, we waited for Bowen before doing the hike and then doing the descent to Pollenca, where we went to find a bike shop that could replace his derailleur cable. It took 2 tries since the first one we tried was about to close for lunch. I had also assembled the crank wrong, leaving too much space on the left crank, and I tried to borrow a Shimano tool to fix it, but the shop mechanic said he’d just fix that as well.


Boen wanted to head back to the hotel to play with Otto, so he rode off with Arturo while Xiaoqin, Bowen and I had lunch while waiting for the bikes to get fixed. Just as we had finished eating, the bikes were done. The charge—15 Euros including the replacement cable.


We rode back with no incident. To my delight, the buffet dinner was different every night and would remain so every day of the trip. Joe had arrived and picked up his rental bike. We had to get up and leave at 7:00am the next day for the shuttle to Andratx for the ride across the island. We discussed various options. Mark suggested that we leave out the Orient valley to save about 1000’ of climbing, and that appealed to most people.


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