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Friday, October 05, 2018

Review: How Music Works

I bought the audio book version of How Music Works without knowing who David Byrne was, or even being a fan of the Talking Heads band. a testimony to what having a ton of good reviews coupled with a good sale would do.

I started listening to the first chapter and it blew me away. This was clearly a guy who'd thought hard and deeply about music, with a beautiful statement on how the music venue (ranging from the jungles ans savannah in Africa to the club venues like CBGB) affected the music that's produced. I was impressed and immediately looked up who David Byrne was and listened to a few songs by the Talking Heads.

Part of the book is strongly autobiographical, detailing how he was inspired by Japanese kabuki and other Asian performing traditions to stage his famous Stop Making Sense concert, where stage sets would get moved in during songs, starting from a bare empty stage to a full on band. I even watched the concert for myself, and even though many of the songs didn't move me, it was quite clear that every move had been thought through and rehearsed.

One shock I had was when listening to the Talking Heads David Byrne didn't sound anything like the audio  book's narrator. I shouldn't have been surprised, but maybe you would be too.

Many of David Byrne's sympathies are exactly where mine lie, so I'm afraid you're going to consider my review of this book biased. He rails, for instance, against the dominance of classical music in music education. He notes that the faults of music notation mean that nuances of non-classical music such as groove just don't make it into notation, and hence many classical musicians just cannot "rock". Not only can't they perform like a practiced musician of the genre, they literally cannot hear the difference. Despite that, children get educated classically because that's "harder." He points out that music education should be redirected towards self-expression and composition, rather than an over-emphasis of technical expertise and replaying older pieces. He thinks that rich people donating to operas, symphonies, or ballets as a balm for their guilty conscience is pathetic, and expresses sarcastic surprise that real criminals and mobsters didn't get into that act, since it's obviously been so successful for the billionaire CEOs who would donate to the opera house while laying off rank-and-file workers.

I could go on and on about the great stuff I learned in this book. But it's best if you just discover it for yourself. If I had any stereotypes in my head about "dumb rock musicians who can only write repetitive lyrics but can't hold complex thoughts", David Byrne wiped those caricatures clear off my brain by the second chapter and proceeded a complete re-education campaign. He even has a chapter on how to grow a musical ecosystem which sounds like it would be much more effective than the frequent prescriptions in business magazines about "how to grow the next Silicon Valley".

That's not to say that he doesn't have his flaws (in doing research for this review I learned that he broke up with the rest of his band during an interview with a newspaper, hardly the act of a non-self-centered rock star), but I feel like I learned even more from this book than from the well respected (though classically-oriented) Great Courses entry. That makes this book highly recommended and a no-regret purchase.

Thursday, October 04, 2018

Review: Giro Jag gloves

I was packing for this year's tour of the alps and the gloves I'd been using all year were dead and clearly wouldn't survive the tour. It was too late to wait for Amazon to deliver a new pair, so I just biked over to the local bike shop. They didn't carry my favorite Specialized BG gloves, but they had Pearl Izumi and Giro.

Giro was now a verboten brand because of their association with the gun manufacturer, so I tried the Pearl Izumi first, but it was a poor fit. Plus, the gloves I had just discarded for poor durability were Pearl Izumi, so the Jag it was.

These were very comfortable, and about the only thing they're missing is a pull tab so you can pull them off  your hands. They've stood up to all the touring abuse I put them through, and I missed them when I thought I lost one of them in the wash after getting back home. (I've since found the pair, but not before I bought a pair of Specialized BG gloves from the internet)

Recommended, but they're still owned by evil gun manufacturers, so buy other brands if you can.

Wednesday, October 03, 2018

Review: Fire TV Cube

For the living room, we  had an echo dot hooked up to the sound system and the harmony hub. It's great to be able to turn on everything with voice, but I didn't have a good solution for the bedroom setup.

The Fire TV Cube, however, looked like it solved the problem. You hook it up to the TV, and it has IR blasters that would control the TV, soundbar, and also do smart things like say, "Switch to Playstation" and it would set the HDMI inputs on the TV to the appropriate thing. It's even smart enough not to use its built-in speakers for music, and would be smart enough to turn on the soundbar and use it.

There are interesting limitations that I wish it didn't have. For instance, it only has a HDMI output, and doesn't have sound output (either headphone jacks or RCA output), so it can't directly output to the soundbar, forcing the device to turn on the TV to stream music to the soundbar. It doesn't have a Bluetooth hub built in, so it can't turn on or control the Playstation. Of course, to solve these problems require additional hardware, and the integrated voice control has its own problems. For instance, to turn up the volume you have to talk, which interrupts any movie you're watching.

Nevertheless, the device works for what its intended for, and works well enough that I won't be returning it. Amazon has done a good job figuring out what people want, and how to make it good enough. Recommended.

Tuesday, October 02, 2018

Review: Stress and Your Body

I listened to Stress and Your Body, and kept thinking about how familiar it all sounded. Turns out it was all a rehash of another audio lecture series by the same author. Being Human, and Biology and Human Behavior.

The content of the lecture series is fine you've never heard it before. For instance, why are symphony conductors so long lived? It's not just because being up there on stage and waving your baton is excellent aerobic exercise, it's also because they have a lot of control. Apparently, it's not uncommon for the musicians to have to ask the conductor for permission to go to the bathroom in the middle of a practice! Having that much power is apparently great for longevity. (And there you have it, the answer for why women live longer than men)

Anyway, the book's thesis is that the stress response is great. In the short term, it does a lot of good things for you, boosting your cognition and reaction time in those moments when you're running away from the tiger. It's chronic stress that's bad for you, because the human brain has the ability to turn on that stress response for things where raising heart rate and reducing digestion won't help you for, such as the need to pay a mortgage.

The book does provide some solutions for managing stress, but some of it is not as good as you might imagine. For instance, there's an experiment where they got students training to be social workers to visit people in nursing homes to see if that additional human interaction was good for them. And indeed it was great. But then when the experiment is over and the students stopped coming, the folks in the nursing home deteriorated to a much worse baseline than the controls who never got that additional interaction. So it's not like you can do this as a temporary thing, it has to be ongoing.

The lecture series is fine, just don't be me and buy the other books Sapolsky has done: he's pretty much been mining the same material over and over again, so you're bound to start thinking: "Hm... I've heard this before, even in the same voice!" Otherwise, if you've never heard any Sapolsky before, it's recommended.

Monday, October 01, 2018

Review: The Magicians Season 1

The Magicians was a fair-to-mediocre novel by Lev Grossman billed as "Harry Potter for Adults".  That actually meant that the TV series had potential, because it's quite possible for the TV series to be better than the book.

Indeed, I appreciate almost all the changes in the TV series, except the selection of Jason Ralph as the actor for Quentin Coldwater. Ralph appears to have no emotional range, and just walks through the entire 13 episode series with a surly look on his face. He never quite sells any of the relationships Quentin has with other characters in the show. The TV series brings in many elements of the second book, The Magician King as well, which is great, because as in the book, Julia's story is far more interesting than Quentin's. She's also a much more interesting character.

The big reveals in the series are well done, and the rest of the setup (Fillory as Narnia, the visit to Antarctica) was a lot of fun. The boring part of the book was also eliminated, which is a wise decision --- alcoholism is too mundane for a TV series about fantasy.

If you've read the books, I think you'll like the TV series better. If you haven't, this is actually a fairly good TV series and worth your time.

Friday, September 28, 2018

Review: Beauty - A Novel

Beauty reminds me of a "made-for-tv" movie. The plot is straightforward, as is the narrative, and the characters live right up to their stereotype. The story revolves around Carol McLean, whose job at the start of the novel is that of a hatchet-man: flying in to shutdown a firm for liquidation. But she's always wanted to run her own company. Unfortunately, she's about to be laid off in favor of someone cheaper, but at her last shut-down she sees an opportunity.

The story then revolves around a fictional New England fishing town where a fish-sticks factory is located. The factory is slated to be liquidated, but McLean (who was nicknamed "Beast" until she meets a local fisherman who renamed her "Beauty") discovers that the old plant had potential and decides to try to revive it and run it as a going concern instead. The rest of the story relates the obstacle she overcomes (from raising funds to negotiating her exit) in a straightforward way without interspersing narratives or plot twists. There's also a straightforward romance that has no mystery.

The most unrealistic piece of the novel is the protagonist. There might be people who just want their own company but don't care what line of business it's in, but that definitely doesn't strike me as very likely.

The novel is short and easy to read, and would make a decent airplane novel. I'd recommend it as such, but there are probably more interesting reads you can find with relatively little effort.

Thursday, September 27, 2018

Review: Needful Things

Needful Things is Stephen King's novel about a curio shop with a soul-collecting owner. You've probably visited one, but King managers to turn his curio shop into a mirror of the small New England town that reflects the human soul's neediness and attachment to material objects.

The hero of the story is Alan Pangborn, who apparently is a recurring character who survived a previous Stephen King novel. As a protagonist he too suffers from a past that eats away at him, but is otherwise a very sympathetic sheriff who tries very hard not to scare the kids he has to interrogate.

The story centers around the eponymous curio shop which sells the object of the customer's desire, but with money being the secondary medium of exchange: the proprietor, Leland Gaunt, asks in exchange that the customer do him a favor. The favor turns out to be something that creates and amplifies the strife that's already present in town, ranging from a neighbor's dislike of a barking dog to the clash of the Catholic church against the Baptists for opening the of a casino night.

King's writing is his classic transparent prose: easy reading yet descriptive. His depiction of life in a small town is also evocative, and made for fun reading. There are moments of grossness and horror, but by and large, the book relies on psychology and the feeling of inevitability to achieve its effect. Certainly, while reading this book I got the feeling that an external operator who knows the right button to push on all factions of a society can get them to fight each other while ignoring an external enemy that can burn a town down. The whole thing works as a great metaphor for what has overcome American society in the past 3 years, making this a particularly appropriate read for recent events. The novel was written in 1991, so there's no question of King using current events to drive his novel, unless you believe he had a crystal ball.

The ending of the novel, of course, gives you no hope that there's a non-magical solution for a society that's already in the throes of this type of external intervention. This novel is the last one set in Castle Rock, and Pangborn's solution to dealing with Gaunt isn't one that anyone could possibly hope to use in real life.

Nevertheless, I found the novel compelling and deeper than it looks on the surface. Recommended.

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Review: Limar Ultralight Helmet

I've been disappointed by helmet technology over the last decade or so, as helmet improvement appears to have stalled. Helmets haven't gotten any lighter, they're definitely not cooler, and they still don't wick sweat away from your eyes well. I saw the Limar Ultralight for sale, and hoped it would make a significant difference from the free helmet I wear daily. It's supposedly the lightest helmet ever, at around 230g, but that comes with a lot of caveats.

For instance, I'm typically a S/M in any other helmet size. The Limar gets its lightweight helmet by calling its S helmet an M. If you remove all the padding for the helmet, it fits, but now you've got the scratch velcro anchor points scratching your head, and you've got not sweat wicking material at all, and you've got no room for a sweatband.

Needless to say, I returned the helmet and got my money back.

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Review: Misbehaving - The Making of Behavioral Economics

Misbehaving is Richard Thaler's memoir of how Behavioral Economics went from being a backwater of economics to becoming mainstream enough that he got to win the Nobel Prize. It's a great read and much deserving of your time.

First of all, you get all the references to Daniel Kahneman and Amos Tversky's work on psychology that revealed the fundamental short-cuts that human brains tend to use whenever it's confronted with complicated problems. The result is that humans don't resemble anything close to the "rational man" so frequently assumed in economic theory and analysis.

Thaler's a characteristically modest academic, not given to blow his own horn. This is great, and he discusses his difficulty in convincing the general community that the anomalies he discovered were of note and impacted policy that mainstream economists were prescribing. So for instance, retirement plan policy are largely focused on tax incentives, but not about how easy it is to sign up for a retirement plan and whether or not to prescribe a correct strategy.
Sometimes the invisible handwave is combined with the incentives argument to suggest that when the stakes are high and the choices are difficult, people will go out and hire experts to help them. The problem with this argument is that it can be hard to find a true expert who does not have a conflict of interest. It is illogical to think that someone who is not sophisticated enough to choose a good portfolio for her retirement saving will somehow be sophisticated about searching for a financial advisor, mortgage broker, or real estate agent. Many people have made money selling magic potions and Ponzi schemes, but few have gotten rich selling the advice, “Don’t buy that stuff.” --- Page 52
Furthermore, the  idea that the competitive marketplace would punish mismanagement of corporations or businesses and drive them out of business fails in that businesses have gotten very good at manipulating market structure and the political environment to preserve themselves:
In my lifetime, I cannot remember any time when experts thought General Motors was a well-run company. But GM stumbled along as a badly-run company for decades. For most of this period they were also the largest car company in the world. Perhaps they would have disappeared from the global economy in 2009 after the financial crisis, but with the aid of a government bailout, they are now the second largest automobile company in the world, a bit behind Toyota and just ahead of Volkswagen. Competitive forces apparently are slow-acting. (Pg. 52)
He notes that frequently, many company CEOs want to  increase risk-taking, while employees are risk averse. Thaler makes a great observation: if you tie compensation to results, rather than the reasoning that leads to funding the risky project, then managers would generally try to only fund projects that are guaranteed to make them look good.
Whenever there is a time lapse between the times when a decision is made and when the results come in, the boss may have trouble remembering that he originally thought it was a good idea too. The bottom line is that in many situations in which agents are making poor choices, the person who is misbehaving is often the principal, not the agent. The misbehavior is in failing to create an environment in which employees feel that they can take good risks and not be punished if the risks fail to pay off. I call these situations “dumb principal” problems. (Pg. 190)
I hope the above quotes give you an idea of how great a book this is. If you're involved in business in anyway,  you should read this book. If you want a good understanding of how much of a death-grip the Chicago school of economics and the rational expectations assumptions had on policy prescriptions and economics thinking, this book also provides a fantastic history of how hard it was to change the paradigm.

There are too many reasons to read this book. Go find a copy and read it. Highly recommended.

Monday, September 24, 2018

Review: A couple of fountain pens

Bowen's teacher was complaining about his writing. My solution was to get a handwriting practice book and then pens and make him practice. He didn't enjoy it though, and the pens get lost a lot.

I remembered my years as a kid in Singapore schools practicing with a fountain pen. Fountain pens can only be held in a particular way, which makes them great for getting everything right. The Pilot Metropolitan was cheap, which is important for something that's going to be handle by a kid. Dropping a fountain pen on its nib will pretty much destroy it.

Well, Bowen didn't like the fountain pen either, but I discovered a very nice property of a fountain pen. Nobody else in the house wanted to borrow one, which meant that my fountain pen could always be mine, and I'd always have a pen instead of constantly losing it. The fine nib is scratchy, and the built-in squeeze converter holds very little ink, so I went in search of a better pen.

I ended up with the Kaweco Classic Sport, also in a fine nib. This pen's a little more expensive, but it writes much smoother than the Metropolitan, and is also much smaller. Unfortunately, the pens don't use interchangeable cartridges, oh well.

What surprised me about the pens is that modern fountain pens seem to be much better than the stuff I had in school. They don't leak, even on airplanes. (I carry a pen to fill out custom forms, and again, it's such an exotic instrument that nobody ever asks to borrow mine)

I have to say that I'm surprised by how nice it is to have a fountain pen. I never would have guessed it.

Friday, September 21, 2018

Long Term Review: Sony WH1000XM2

When I first reviewed the Sony WH1000XM2, I hadn't used them on an airplane. On the flight to and from Europe this time, I used them on the plane. Wow, they are amazing on an airplane. They've completely cut out the airplane noise. Music sounds great.

And comfort? Bowen hates headphones, and he grabbed them from me and tried them, and never gave them back to me, falling asleep with the headphones on his head. I was so happy that he fell asleep and I got to steal them back.

If you fly on a regular basis or have a long flight ahead of you, these are the headphones to get. Highly recommended.

Thursday, September 20, 2018

Review: Deep - Freediving, Renegade Science, and What Ocean Tells Us About Ourselves

I listened to Deep as an audio book. I expected a short, fairly easy listening book, and what I got was a long book full of scientific research, interesting people, and stories, interspersed with all sorts of random facts that would be too much to enumerate in a book review.

The story starts with free diving. OK, free diving is fun, and anyone who's ever done any snorkeling is going to love this part of the book, since it's about the amazing breath holds and how to get down to very deep depths without the bother of scuba gear and other annoying issues. Unfortunately, the sport of free diving seems competitive and driven by the one-upsmanship that happens whenever human beings start to compete with each other. The author describes competitors who black out under competition, one man who was paralyzed from the damage caused, and a man who died under competition conditions. This is not a sport you're going to be encouraging your kids to get into. And it's not even fun: most of the competitors dive with their eyes closed, because goggles would slow you down!

Fortunately, James Nestor decided it was pretty pointless as well, and goes on to other areas of oceanographic research in addition to finding an instructor and training to free dive. He even meets the Ama, the Japanese free divers who have a multi-generation tradition of Pearl diving. The book covers many topics such as the attempt to tag sharks near Reunion using free divers.

There's extensive coverage of dolphins and whales and echolocation, as well as an interesting visit to the Marinas trench, as well as the world's deepest underwater tour submarine. All in all, listening to this book took me months and provided lots more material than I expected.

My only complaint about the book is that the author uses the same voice to depict all the other characters he meets, which sometimes sounds like he's caricaturing them. That's a really minor complaint.

This book comes recommended, and is worth your time.

Wednesday, September 19, 2018

Review: Hamster Princess: Harriet the Invincible

Hamster Princess - Harriet the Invincible is a retelling of Sleeping Beauty, but with a modernist take that's quite charming. It's nominally for Grades 3-7, but Bowen could read entire chapters out loud with only a handful of words that I had to correct him on, so the take the grade level thing with a huge sack of salt.

I've been reading a chapter every night to him: it's fun reading (and obviously not as daunting as The Two Towers, which is the bonus reading he gets every night as well). The protagonist is obviously not the demure princesses of old, but the feisty, cliff-diving, sword wielding modern princess. There's even math in the form of fractions, and the wall of text is frequently interrupted with cartoons or comic book panels, which is great. The writing is not as amazingly fun as Thieves and Kings, but I've lost all hope that Mark Oakley will ever get around to completing that story.

My only complaint is that the men in the book are all whiners. Since little kids whine all the time, I would very much like my boys not to have whiner role models. It's OK for the princes to not be the heroes or protagonists, but there's no need to have all the males be whiners.

Recommended. I'll see if Bowen wants more Hamster Princess books tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 18, 2018

Review: Netflix's Altered Carbon

To say that I'm a fan of Richard K Morgan is an understatement. I've bought and read everything in the Takeshi Kovacs series, including Altered Carbon. I'm not usually a fan of TV, however, so when I heard that Netflix adapted it into a TV Series, I didn't even think about using my free trial. Then some idiot signed up for Netflix using my e-mail address, essentially deciding to turn on my free trial for me.

OK, so I started watching it to see if it was any good. I'm not going to hold back from spoilers, because that's the only way a fan of the book can properly review the TV series. The big change is that Reileen Kawahara got changed from being the big bad to Kovacs' sister. That's probably done to heighten drama, but doesn't make any sense: the series depicts Kovacs going from CTAC conditioned soldier to shooting down members of his own squad, and then asks us to believe that he would RD (real death) his own sister. The actor portraying Ryker's sleeve simply wasn't good enough to convince us that Kovacs would do this.

Other changes: the Envoy training is changed from being part of the protectorate to being part of a Quellist uprising. This is of course unbelievable in and of itself, so Quell herself becomes the inventor of the sleeving technology. They also weakened the Envoy conditioning.

The latter is the worst part of the conversion in the TV series. In the novel, Kovacs is smart, and figures everything out. In the TV series, he's a reactive person who only figures anything out when he has it shoved in front of his face and it's so obvious even the dumbest person in the audience can understand it.

There are lots of tonal changes. For instance, the book is actually much more brutal and violent than the TV series (I know: if you've seen the TV series, you wonder how it could actually be worse, but the interrogation at the Wei clinic is one major example --- in the book Kovacs is sleeved into a woman's body so that the torture would be more effective, something that probably wouldn't be acceptable when shown to a mass audience). That's understandable and I'm quite OK with it.

All in all, the TV series could be seen as quite good if you haven't read the book. If you have a choice, however, read the book first. If you've already seen the TV series, go read the book. I re-read it for this review and it's a different experience and significantly better. Morgan manages to restyle Raymond Chandler for a more cynical world, and brings a unique stamp on it that's compelling reading. It might be a great mindless read, but if you pay attention, it's got much deeper themes in it that's worth your attention as well.

Monday, September 17, 2018

Review: 3M Safety Glasses

One of the kids in Bowen's school showed up with these cool wrap-around safety glasses that appeared to fit him really well, so I asked his mom where she got them, hoping that they wouldn't be too expensive. The response, "his grandfather got them from Home Depot. They're 3M safety glasses!"

I never visit a physical store if I can help it. It turns out that Amazon sells them in a 4-pack for $10.36, and you can get them in gray or in clear. The sidepieces are flexible enough to wrap around even a little kid's head, and the nose pieces are soft enough that neither Bowen nor Boen have complained about them. You've probably seen lots of pictures of Bowen wearing them on this blog, so you can decide for yourself whether they're fashionable enough for your kid. All I care about is that Bowen likes them enough that when he lost his dark glasses in Italy, he'd rather wear the clear ones than the dark glasses we bought as replacements at the first store we found that had them, and it's more important that my kids wear eye protection than that they look fashionable.

At these prices, you won't cry if the kids loses them, sits on them, or abuse them in any way. They're sturdy enough to survive a bike tour and then some. Eye protection is essential even if you're not cycling: UV exposure can cause cataracts.

I hope my sons never need prescription glasses. As long as they don't, these are the best bang for the buck UV/rain/wind/dust protection anywhere. Recommended.

Friday, September 14, 2018

Review: Google WiFi

I usually try to stay away from Google's hardware consumer products: it's quite clear to me that Google's product managers suffer from a severe case of Apple envy, and as a result tend to go for an unimaginative copy of Apple products rather than technical excellence.

Our problem is that the house we're currently living in is huge, too much even for our old "Dark Knight" router to cover. There was a sale on the Google WiFi 3 pack during the Amazon Prime Day, so I picked it up, hoping the mesh network coverage will work out.

The marketing literature claims 3000 square foot coverage. In reality, that's going to be true only if you have the primary unit in the optimal section of the house. Since we couldn't choose where to put our primary unit, the coverage isn't quite there. I was surprised by how close the units have to be: the instructions say the units have to be about 2 rooms apart, which is about 20' or so. The wifi units don't really work together: they all want to link themselves to the primary unit rather than doing an extra hop through an intermediate wifi point. So much for smart configuration.

Setup is easy, though time consuming, as the setting up of the WiFi unit requires an app which seems to take forever to run. The unit in the office got a wired connection to an ethernet hub and serves 4 computers. Speeds on computers in the unit reading and writing to our Windows Server in the equipment closet went from about 50Mbps to 150Mbps, which is a significant speedup.

Unlike the Dark Knight router, Google WiFi serves only one access point, rather than letting you split coverage between 2 bands. This makes covering units very easy (only one WiFi password to remember) but also means for instance, that you can't deliberately set certain devices to certain channels to avoid conflict. Google claims that the software does the right thing automatically, and provides testing features in its app for you to check wifi speed.

The units require a reboot about once a month or so. The irritating part about this is that the mesh would break down and tell you inane things like: "move the mesh wifi points closer together" even though the units had worked correctly the day before. You just have to pick the "reboot" option and hope everything comes together.

All in all, Google WiFi was surprisingly decent for a Google hardware product. As of this writing, the TP-Link Deco (based on the same hardware) is cheaper ($170) and comes with Alexa, so it's potentially better, but I've had bad luck with TP-Link hardware in the past, so I'm not about to experiment. It's nowhere as good as having wired Ethernet all over the house, so if you have an option there I'd still recommend that you run wires.

Recommended.

Thursday, September 13, 2018

Review: Dark Matter

Dark Matter is Blake Crouch's novel about a man who's kidnapped by a mirror world substitute. Rather than a serious or speculative novel, it's structured as a thriller, and doesn't spend much time actually discussing quantum mechanics, despite the author's proclamations.

The protagonist, Jason Dessen, is kidnapped and drugged one day, and wakes up in a world where he's a famous scientist, and he was never married and had no kids. He discovers that his alternate world counterpart has invented a machine that can traverse the multiverse, and he escapes to find his family.

Crouch is a screenwriter, so the novel reads a lot like a movie would, with lots of action, dialog that performs exposition instead of stream-of-consciousness descriptions, and obvious places where the camera cuts from scene to scene. The writing is fast paced and smooth, and zero thinking is required on the part of the reader as everything is spoon-fed to you.

This makes Dark Matter a reasonable airplane novel, and can be recommended as such. If you want deeper stuff go elsewhere.

Wednesday, September 12, 2018

Review: Nomatic Minimalist Wallet

If you're like any regular cyclist, jersey pocket space is at a premium. This leads to certain routine behaviors like getting a zip-lock bag and just putting in a bit of cash, health insurance cards, id, and just one or two credit cards into it before going on a bike ride so the jersey pocket can contain other stuff like food or your garage opener.

I saw the Nomatic Wallet on sale (2 for $15), and decided that it might be a nice alternative to a zip-lock bag. I didn't expect to like it as much as I do, to the point where I've pretty much retired my 3-year-old BigSkinny.

The wallet has a main compartment that will hold a few cards (the claim is 15, but I'll be surprised if you can stick more than 8 cards in there). On the other side, there's a key and cash wallet. You shouldn't attempt to stick coins in there (unless it's very few coins) or you will almost certainly lose them.

In use, it's fast to get cards out of the wallet, but much slower to get cash or keys out. The wallet bunches up the cards together so that you'll notice if the wallet falls out of your pocket when you're sitting down, for instance, which is a good feature, and better than the zip-lock bag solution, where if the cards are diffused, you might not notice the entire bag falling out of your pocket.

For travel use, I still think the BigSkinny passport wallet is the right solution for most people, but for domestic use where you're not carrying passports this has turned into my daily use wallet, to my surprise. Recommended.

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

Review: Leonardo Da Vinci

Leonardo Da Vinci is Walter Issacson's biography of Leonardo Da Vinci. It covers his life in great detail, covering his entire life.

What's interesting to you about Da Vinci might or might not be interesting to me, and we all pick and choose what we like. But the nice thing about this book is an explanation of how or why Da Vinci's important works were interesting and important. I enjoyed Issacson's explanation of why his portraits were so long sought after: Da Vinci would layer his paintings, adding a brush stroke here and there, year after year to create a translucent effect on the portraits. For "the last supper", he constructed the painting so that the perspective would look correct from various parts of the room, which was innovative both in the use of perspective as well as integration into the area where the room was.

Much has been made of Da Vinci's inventions. Issacson points out that many of the drawings that are used to illustrate these might actually have been drawings meant to prepare costumes or props for pageants and stage plays or big events, rather than meant to be used for actual military or architectural purpose. This information would have caused me to view the various Da Vinci exhibits I saw in France several years ago.

Da Vinci was the ultimate (and probably most famous) renaissance man. He was curious about everything, drawing tons of illustrations and investigated science before Newton. That curiosity did not translate, however, into advancement of human understanding for his time, because he didn't care about publishing. Despite his notebooks having a wealth of detail, what happened was that after his death his notebooks were sold and scattered, and no one actually went back and condensed all that detail into books that could be reproduced and learned from. As a result, a lot of the knowledge was independently rediscovered much later (including his insight as to how the heart valves' fluid dynamics worked). All this happened despite the fact that he had two proteges that he was close to.

One thing that was revealed in this book is that Da Vinci was a master procrastinator. Either that, or you could call him a perfectionist. He would take 14 years to work on the Mona Lisa, never delivering it to the person who commissioned it (though it seemed like once he took a liking to the work he never intended to deliver), but just adding a brush stroke here and there over the years. So he died with the Mona Lisa near him. This habit of procrastination was so famous that the city of Florence tried over and over again to write contracts to ensure that he would deliver, in one case even goading him a long, by commissioning a painting from him, and then also commissioning one from Michaelangelo for a wall right next door to the one he was supposed to paint. (This particular story backfired: neither artist finished his painting) According to Issacson, this made Da Vinci an artist, instead of just a master painter.

There are lots of other stories about Da Vinci that stood out in this book, and many lamentations of "what-if", mostly related to Da Vinci's lack of concern about publication. His one publication that made a big contribution to mathematics happened when he teamed up with a mathematician who was writing a text book. A similar collaboration almost happened with a physician, but that physician died of a plague (ironically) before anything came to fruition. Da Vinci was like the archetypal professor with tenure: he could essentially explore whatever he liked, without concern about delivering sufficient commercial success to make a living.

I wished I'd read this book before visiting the Louvre or visiting any of the Da Vinci exhibits, so I would recommend this book to anyone who was about to visit any of those.

Monday, September 10, 2018

Things I would have done differently

I'm always thinking of ways to improve the next tour, and if there was anything I could have done differently to improve the experience. Of course, it's very likely the next time we do a tour Boen will want to come along as well, so we may or may not finally break down and do a supported tour. On the triplet, we'll definitely have to scale back on the degree of difficulty and passes that we need to ride.

First, the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt cannot serve as our primary navigation device. I'd like to replace it with either a Garmin watch that can do navigation, or a Garmin head unit that can do navigation. I'd like to replace the tail light with a Garmin Varia Radar as well, so some thought will have to go into compatibility and mounting options.

I think the bike tour from Merano to Trentino and Verona was a mistake. It was too hot, and not at all suitable for a summer trip. In retrospect, what I should have done, knowing what I know now, was to take the train from Bolzano up to Fortezza and then ridden over to Dobbiaco and then Misurina. That would have provided easy access to Cortina and then gotten us to the Badia area for riding in the Sella Rondo Bike Day. On the other hand, it was nice to see Lake Garda, which was new to me on this trip.

In any case, hammering up the two hard days right after Fuessen while jet-lag wasn't very smart. I probably should have taken it easy, and not promised Bowen "breakfast in Austria, lunch in Switzerland, and dinner in Italy." I probably could have stretched that out a bit so as to get a bit more rest in the afternoon on those days

I should not have switched brands for melatonin. Perhaps the correct approach next time for combating jet-lag is to get stronger medicine, but I guess I'll have a chat with my sleep doctor prior to the next trip.

Friday, September 07, 2018

Review: Moto X4

Amazon Prime Day had the Moto X4 (Amazon Edition) for $199. At that price, I'd jumped on it, given that I had cracked the screen on the LG V20 multiple times during various bike rides and during Bowen's tour. I'd avoided the X4 last year because it had only 32GB of storage and 3GB of RAM, a downgrade from the Moto G5+.

On paper, the X4 can be described as a "no-compromise mid-range" phone. The key features are:
  • USB-C (some people consider this a feature, but I didn't)
  • NFC (missing on the Moto G5+)
  • headphone jack (missing on many "flagship" phones)
  • MicroSD card slot (missing on Google's "apple-envy" phones)
  • Waterproof (missing on the Moto G5+)
  • Android Oreo (missing on the Moto G5+, but to be honest I don't really think it's a big deal: recent Android versions have introduced very few features that are noticeable)
As you can see, there's good reason people have been hanging on to their phones longer and longer: quite a few features on this list have been dropped from pricier phones, and many of these features aren't really required. For instance, NFC payments while nice, still aren't required in 2018. I got used to it when the neighborhood Safeway started accepting Google Pay and quick grocery runs no longer needed me to bring my wallet, but otherwise, even credit cards have started providing NFC chips even if your phone doesn't have one.

What drew me, of course, was the waterproofing and microSD card slot, which have been a mainstay in many Android phones since the beginning. The phone has a glass back, another fashionable and unnecessarily fragile feature which makes it slippery and demands a case. I picked the Spigen Armor case, which brought the weight of the phone from 174g to 206g, heavier than the LG V20 without a case. But there's a reason the LG V20 now has several cracks in the screen. While the LG V20 was milspec rated for drops, that doesn't apply to screens, apparently. For true ruggedness you'll have to get a phone that weighs more than half a pound.

Booting up the phone and inserting my sim card and micro sd card from the LG V20, I'm forced to realize that software matters a lot. While the Snapdragon 630 is a whole tier below the Snapdragon 821 and theoretically slower, the Moto X4 boots up just as fast. The Moto gestures (twist to shoot, chop chop to turn on flashlight, use the fingerprint sensor as a navigation button) are great and I can't tell you how much I missed them. Camera startup appears to be slower than on the Moto G5+ (5s), but that could have been fond nostalgia working. The camera shoots crap pictures. But all camera phones shoot crap pictures: they're meant for receipts, bank deposits, and moments when you really don't have a better camera with you, but when your intent is to make good pictures, bring the real camera. I don't even know why they bothered with the dual camera thing. They should have just kept the same camera in the Moto G5+ and I'd have been happy.

One very welcome feature in Oreo is the introduction of LDAC pairing over bluetooth.. That meant my fancy noise canceling headphones get high quality audio. Since I actually use music stored on the phone most of the time, this was great. Of course, the headphone jack itself isn't strong enough to drive my Sennheiser 600s but I'll keep the LG V20 around for that. Occasionally, the music playback on the device gets very confused and everything will play and skip. A reboot takes care of that.

The shortage of onboard storage was worrying: after installing my typical in-use apps, I only have about 8GB free on the onboard flash storage. In general, you don't want to fill up flash storage. Not only do you end up spending a lot of time managing storage, the more you fill up flash storage, the slower it gets, and the shorter the life of your storage device. I would have been much happier if Lenovo had launched the 64GB version of the phone in the US. The additional RAM would also have been nice, but in practice I don't find that RAM is a limiting factor in today's phones.

The phone gets regular updates, which is a pleasant surprise, getting security updates on the first of every month. Now a lot of Android enthusiasts make a big deal out of this. I don't. It's nice to get updates, but I've never had an Android phone get hacked (and neither have the less technically involved members of my family), so I don't think phone security is as big a deal as those guys make it out to be. Recent Android OS updates just haven't been compelling, and some updates introduce bugs that slow your phone down or drain battery fast. What is interesting is that the Moto X4 is one of the few devices to support A/B partitioning. That means that system updates can happen in the background, and the system has a backup OS partition in case something goes badly wrong in the update. This is only a useful feature if software updates come frequently, which in the case of the Moto X4 appears to be the case.

The phone charges fast, but because the Snapdragon 630 is just an overclocked 625 made on the same process, the battery life is worse than the Moto G5+'s, since the battery pack is the same size. Both are miles better than the LG V20, which would take an extended battery to survive the kind of trip the Moto G5+ handled with aplomb. My suspicion is that the Moto X4 would have to be topped up with some kind of power bank on a bike tour in the middle of the day. Overnight, the battery would drain by about 8-10%, indicating a screen off battery consumption of 1% per hour. I ended up turning off the Moto display feature because it would drain the battery superfast during the day, flashing notifications all the time.

In case you're wondering, the Amazon Edition of the Moto X4 also qualifies for Project Fi. This will be great for international travel as this year I discovered that the regular T-mobile speed just isn't fast enough for sync'ing routes to the Wahoo Bolt.

All in all, the X4 is a great phone. It's got all the features "flagship" phones have and many features the $600+ don't have. You will never feel like you're missing out on features you need with this phone. Recommended.

Thursday, September 06, 2018

Review: Columbia Men's Trail Splash Shorts

Columbia recently had a sale on their Trail Splash Shorts. It being the summer, I bought one. When it arrived, I weighed them at 145g. By contrast, my no-longer-made Cloudveil Capris were 186g, but those required a belt!

These shorts are super comfortable. They wick sweat well, the super-light fabric feels great, and they don't need a belt because they have an integrated one.  They bead water, and my guess is in a pinch you can even use them as swim suits. After I put them on, I immediately went and bought another pair.

Recommended.

Wednesday, September 05, 2018

Review: Crazy Rich Asians

I didn't realize that Crazy Rich Asians was set in Singapore, so when my wife started asking about Singaporean 富二代, I found myself saying that I'd never met any of them. But I was intrigued, and so I picked up the book.

The novel is a reversed culture shock comedy story. We're probably all familiar with the typical Asian culture shock story: the Asian immigrant moves to the USA and gets into all sorts of incidents because this is the first time he/she has ever seen a supermarket or Costco warehouse store. This novel depicts Rachel Chu, who is unknowingly dating a super-rich Singaporean in New York, and when he asks her to travel through South East Asia for the summer, agrees and is thrown into the insanity that is the plight of wealthy "old money" in Singapore.

The book thrives on stereotypes and cliches. There's the ABC (American Born Chinese) girl who refuses to date anyone other than white people (but refuses to admit that). There's the aunt that everybody nicknames "Radio One Asia" because she'll broadcast every bit of gossip to everyone in the extended family. There's the snappy dresser cousin who acts as a secret agent for the Matriarchs of the family. And of course, all the female parents are the master wielders of the vicious rumor mill and are crazy enough to hire private investigators to check out their sons or daughter's girlfriends and boyfriends. Don't forget the stereotypical grandparents who use their children's potential inherited wealth as a threat to keep everyone in line. And all the young women are into visiting Paris for the Boutique fashion houses and spending a half million dollars at the time for designer dresses. And of course, every rich guy has a harem of mistresses and/or is in an unhappy marriage but has hung on because of the children.

OK. Those are the bad parts of the novel. The good parts are that Kevin Kwan actually did grow up in Singapore. The references all ring true and authentic, including mentions of the Anglo Chinese School (where my brothers and I spent our formative years), Raffles Institution, and of course, MGS, the sister school of ACS with the distinctive pinafore uniforms. Upon reading this book, I realized that I'd inadvertently lied to my wife: so those wealthy kids were the kids whose families were actually Christian, who did go to church on Sunday, and who'd shown up at grade one already speaking English, making me feel like I was already far far behind everybody else. (My mom, upon hearing that, switched all my younger brothers to an English speaking kindergarten) Thinking back, I remembered that one of my brother's friends would send a chauffeur with a Mercedes Benz to pick him up for a play date. I never actually had one of those play dates, being too introverted to actually make more than one friend in Primary school, though I remember a classmate living in a house so ginormous that they'd have a whistle next to the phone: when you called them and asked for the person you wanted to speak with, the person answering the phone would blow the whistle a certain number of times to indicate who should come to the phone!

Every Hokkien (福建), Cantonese (廣東) or Malay phrase is foot-noted, and there are plenty of those thrown in there. The footnotes are somewhat amusing, though not always entirely accurate (and frequently incomplete), and the Anglicization is always difficult to parse because neither Hokkien nor Cantonese have a standard phonetic romanization.

And then of course, there's the food, which is the only thing I ever miss about South East Asia. The enthusiasm of Singaporean culture about food comes across and is authentic, and of course, the description of the various foods are spot on. I'm even miffed that my favorite Singaporean dish Mee Pok never made it into the novel! And of course, the mention of the ACS cafeteria losing its Mee Siam vendor made me sad, even though I'd long known that the campus I'd grown up in (with its 10 cents bowl of noodles and fantastic lunches) was long gone. The movie might be worth watching just for awesomely videographed food scenes. True to form, the older Chinese people in the book always complain whenever a non-Chinese dish is served.

There's lots more to give the novel authenticity: Gurkha guards --- I'd walked past Lee Kuan Yew's house with its Gurkhas on the way to kindergarten every day.  There's the references to different parts of Singapore which only a Singaporean would know.

What's missing, of course, is all the great stuff that a non-wealthy Singaporean would know about. The fantastic public transportation system (MRT and the public bus system). The mini-buses which would be stuffed with school children to and from school, complete with a conductor hanging off the door rails to keep the kids on the bus from falling out as the bus moved. The incredible safety and 24-hour food access (it shocked me when I went to school at Berkeley that you couldn't find food at 2:00am!) are barely mentioned.

I didn't expect to enjoy the novel as much as I did, and it almost makes me want to see the movie just to see how much the city has changed since I left. I'm placing a hold on the next book in the series at the library right now, so that means the novel comes recommended.

Notes on the movie:
After I wrote the above, I saw the movie version of the book. To say the least, the movie is disappointing, with many subplots eliminated or simplified. But that's not an issue: most movies are like that. The movie drops many of the distinctive feature of the novel which make it uniquely Singaporean:
  • Very little Hokkien and Singapore slang. While the book is full of footnotes explaining unique Singaporean/Malay/Hokkien slang, most of the non-English words spoken in the movie is either Mandarin or Cantonese. You can go through most of your life in Singapore without knowing Cantonese, and the movie might as well have been set in Hong Kong. None of the distinctive culture that makes Singapore not Hong Kong or Taiwan has made it into the movie. 
  • Very little emphasis on food: in the book, the characters argue about where to go get food all the time. There isn't even a single 30s sequence in the movie where the characters do that in the movie. The food photography/cinematography could also have been much better. The scene set in the hawker center might as well have been at any American food court.
  • All the scenes set in Malaysia like Malacca or the Cameron Highlands are gone.
Other notable changes:
  • The book spends gobs and gobs of time on boutiques and fashion. Famous designers and fashion icons are mentioned. The cinematography didn't even waste any effort there.  
  • Nick Young comes across much more as a compliant Chinese kid than someone willing to give up everything for Rachel.
All in all, if I'd seen the movie first, I probably wouldn't have given the book a chance. So if you saw the movie and thought it was inane, please don't skip the book. The book's got a billion times more flavor and authenticity than the movie, which works very hard to dumb down the book into a simple "American vs Traditional Chinese person" plot that Hollywood thinks an American can understand. That doesn't mean the book isn't flawed, it's just that the movie blows up all the book's flaws without providing any of the book's fun.

Tuesday, September 04, 2018

Packing List for Tour of the Alps 2018

This year, I didn't bother with spare tires or spare derailleur and brake cables. The Park Pin tool is for adjusting the eccentric in place of carrying a much heavier bottom bracket wrench. I carried 3 missing links because if the timing chain gets messed up, having spare missing links would help make up for any broken links. I carried a separate chain tool after losing the one that came with the folding tool. The separate chain tool is much more usable anyway, but like with the spoke wrench, it's one of those things you bring as insurance and are happy not to use.

I solved the problem of constantly leaving chargers behind in hotels by having a new policy of not obsessing about charge state of the electronic devices. I now pack up those chargers when I wake up, not leaving any chargers around to top up any electronics. The Moto G5's fast charger is still the smallest and lightest Qualcomm QC 2.0 charger I've found, and it works on LG phones.

One thing I've learned is that if there's something I bring for myself, I need to bring an equivalent for Bowen. I brought arm coolers for myself, but he refused to let me wear them when I discovered that he didn't have any! I probably no longer need to carry the Minoura tyre levers. The VAR lever is good enough for the tires that are on the bike.

It turned out that one spare bite valve was not enough. By the time we got to Pontresina, Bowen had bitten through the replacement! The kid has sharp teeth!

Tools & Spares
Clothing
Bike
  • toothpaste
  • cough syrup (acquired on the road0
  • floss
  • pills, calcium supplements, and vitamin supplements
  • kids ibuprofen (acquired on the road)
  • first aid kit

Saturday, September 01, 2018

Travel Credit Cards Overview

This time, we traveled with the Capital One Quicksilver and Amazon Prime credit cards for travel use. Both offer no-fee international transactions, which is why I started using CapitalOne credit cards in the first place.

The Capital One credit card I've used before, but for 2018, there was a twist that made the card really useful when in Europe: NFC wireless built in! What's even better, for small amounts like what you'll typically buy in a grocery store, if you use the NFC chip, they don't make you sign for your purchase! This made me not even bother with Google Pay on my phone. All cards should have this feature.

The Amazon Prime credit card was new to me for international travel. I think I learned not to trust credit cards that claim no-fee international transactions, since you won't know about any hidden fees until you get home and check your purchases. I was sparing with it, but I can confirm indeed that it has no fees for international transactions, now that checked my statement. Unfortunately, it doesn't have an NFC chip.

One trick you want to use is to set a pin on your credit card before you travel. This takes a month or so, on occasion, but what it does is to allow you to use your credit card to buy train tickets, where the machine demands a pin. I did this with the Capital One card, and it works well. (No, the train ticket machines don't take NFC)

The Amazon Prime card offers quite a bit more benefits than the Capital One card. The lack of NFC might be worked around by you setting it to be your default card on Google Pay. But I didn't really try Google Pay in Europe this time. That'll be an experiment for future travel. I'll probably try to use the Amazon Prime card a lot more next time, now that I'm confident that the "no-fee" clause is true.

Friday, August 31, 2018

Review: Giro Manta R Cycling Shoes

One of the biggest problems with using clipless pedals for kids is the shortage of cycling shoes small enough to fit them. We are at the point where I'm using aquaseal to fix Bowen's (bought second hand) Speeder cycling shoes so that Boen will eventually get a chance to wear them.

Pardo came across a pair of Giro Manta R women's cycling shoes in size 36 (the smallest they make) in a thrift store for about $10. He bought them. On a lark, about a month before the tour I tried them on Bowen and to my surprised, if you cinch down the straps all the way, they're a slightly loose fit on him! Kids aren't going to sprint all out on the tandem, or if they do, they're usually helping you uphill, so they're not going to pull out of the shoes. Because these shoes have a strap and velcro buckling system rather than shoe-laces, Bowen immediately abandoned the Speeder. (Some day, I'd like to meet the idiot who thought that shoe laces and a velcro cover are a good idea for kids shoes)

The shoes are definitely very stiff, and despite Bowen's abuse, I haven't needed to fix them yet. The big issue is that the cleats mount in a position that's a little bit too close to the lugs on the soles. As a result, playing in a playground with gravel will occasionally pick up a stone at exactly the right spot to prevent the cleat from engaging the pedals. Whenever this happens, the stone is too tightly wedged to pull it out by hand, so you'll have to pull out your pocket knife and pry it out.

From the looks of it, Bowen will outgrow these shoes long before he wears them out, and they're much nicer than his old Speeder shoes. Recommended.

Thursday, August 30, 2018

Review: Smartwool Socks

I don't usually like wool stuff. It's hard to launder, slow to dry, and typical not as good as polyester, nylon, and other high tech fabrics made out of dead dinosaurs. I had a pair of wool shorts once, and it bunched up so bad I might as well have worn paper pants.

Smartwool socks, however, are a different story. We had 2 pairs of them on the trip, and they wring very well, sometimes drying even faster than the lighter cotton socks. They stay warm when wet, and obviously when your son has feet barely big enough for his shoes it's good for socks to be a little thicker. They're expensive but have survived the tour pretty well.

Recommended.

Wednesday, August 29, 2018

Review: Detla Cycle Elastonet

When we're at home and only have a light load, we use the Performance Transit trunk bag. When we're touring, our Robert Beckman panniers are enough for most of our every day equipment, but there are times when we need to carry a little more for usually not a long distance, such as when we buy food at a supermarket and ride to a picnic area.

For that, even the weight of the transit bag is too much. We wanted something even lighter. The Delta Cycle Elastonet is made of elastometer and weighs 56g. It's got 4 hooks, and can be stored on our rack empty without trouble. Throughout our tour, the hooks never came off the rack, even when we were bouncing on dirt road or bike path.

The net stretches sufficiently to carry a helmet on the day when we gave our panniers to the Mapo van and had the luxury of riding up the Stelvio unloaded. I'd say it can carry a basketball with no room for any other item on the rack. It was obviously enough to carry lunch on any given day.

The item is more than worth the weight and price. It's so useful that now that we're home, I still keep it on the bike. Recommended.

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Review: Dell Tek Backpack 15.6"

3 years ago, I bought the Dell Tek 15.6" backpack for about $10 (including a bunch of coupons and a rebate), and I've been using it ever since on almost all my trips, and for Bowen's swimming lessons. It's an incredibly versatile pack and much lighter than the standard backpacks given out for free by Google to employees, for instance.

A typical loadout for a trip with Bowen across the Atlantic includes a tablet, a couple of Vitas, the Kindle, all bicycle electronics and assorted chargers, the CPAP machine, mask and all accessories, a full night's change of clothes for both of us, on-plane toiletries, and whatever other miscellaneous items that absolutely wouldn't have fit in our checked-in luggage. The backpack swallows all this with ease, and despite my repeated over-stuffing of the pack I've not broken it, and the backpack remains comfortable to wear. I prefer it as carry-on luggage to any other backpacks I have in, and given that I've had to carry it along with dragging a roll-on luggage, Bowen, and Bowen's camelbak all at the same time, I can confirm that it makes a nice platform for Bowen to rest on in a fireman's carry.

The newer models go for north of $50 on Amazon and other sites, but as of this writing you can get the exact model I have for $25 direct from Dell, which makes it a great deal. Highly recommended.

Monday, August 27, 2018

Review: Columbia Kids Outdry Hybrid Jacket

Bowen already had a Marmot Kids rain jacket, but I noticed that it wasn't very effective in the rain during last year's tour. The inside of the jacket would be wet when it was raining outside. Fortunately, the England trip never went very high, and getting a little damp when it's not cold is OK. For this year's trip, I wanted something much more effective. Having used the Columbia Hybrid rain jacket, I figured I would give their kids rain jacket a try.

Ironically, it didn't rain on us at all during this year's trip, which did involve the Stelvio, the highest pass in Italy. But Bowen did test the rain jacket in the Hollentalklam, and it worked really well. The inside was bone dry, and his rain pants held up as well.

Both pieces of equipment come highly recommended.

Friday, August 24, 2018

Thoughts: Mountain Touring with a Child

I didn't intend this year's trip to turn into a tour of the Alps, but Bowen turned out to be far more enthusiastic about mountains than I expected. When I compare our touring statistics with say, my 2007 tour, we did about 2/3rds as much distance and about 1/3rd the amount of climbing, but in exchange we didn't have any days where we were stuck due to bad weather. Looking back at my trips over the years, I can see that better information technology in terms of smart phones and better weather forecasting models meant that we're much less likely to be stuck in one spot due to thunderstorms, and the corresponding value of not making reservations and being able to change directions at the drop of a hat have increased. Of course, I'm also more conservative when traveling with Bowen: there were many days when with an adult group I would have risked climbing into a storm where I demurred because kids are more prone to heat and cold stress.

When climbing big mountain passes with your 6-year old on the back of a tandem, it's tempting to think about how he's never out of breath no matter how steep the hills are, and think about how little work he's doing. But this is the wrong way to frame things: instead, think about how much time he's happy to share with you, and how much joy you're having from hearing him laugh and say the words, "This is just too pretty." In many cases, Bowen's asking for a break, or an early stop in the day led me to discover wonderful new stuff that I would normally overlook. Sure, in some ways, it's a preview in some ways of a future where I can no longer ride 100km with 3000m of elevation gain a day while carrying luggage, but it also showed me that a tour of the Alps is meaningful even if you're taking 2 days to climb the Stelvio. And of course, traveling with your child on the back of a tandem means that when you ask for help from a passing motorist or support van, there's no one who will have the heart to turn you down.

I was surprised that Bowen never asked for a Disney-world trip and would ask for cycling tours and sailing trips instead. But I shouldn't have been surprised: maybe the reason more kids don't ask for cycling tours and live-aboard sail trips is quite possibly because they've never had the option! It could very well be that kids who want to go to Disneyland do so because it's the most excitement and fun they've had in their parent-curated life. Jeff Rothschild once told me that the first time he took his family to a backroads cycling tour, at the end of the trip his children asked him, "Why did you wait so long before doing this?"

Executing an independent cycle tour is not for everyone. But there are many ways of touring (all covered in my book). Most of them are very cheap (Hint: Americans do cycle tours most expensively. The same tour sold by an European/UK operator is usually 50-75% discounted compared to the prices shown to Americans. In the case of certain expensive American tour companies, it could be as much as 90% off. With the internet available, there's never any need to pay American prices), so there's no reason you can't go on a bike trip with your family. And of course, now that e-bikes are common and easy to rent in Europe, even hills should no longer stop you.

Thursday, August 23, 2018

Epilogue: Trains and Old friends

Buying the train tickets, I made a mistake, which was to buy a group ticket instead of a single day ticket for me and a single child ticket for Bowen. Not only did I end up paying more, it would make it much harder to sell the tickets later. My phone's slow internet made it tough to find the optimal train to take for easy train changes, but Thomas Bottinger, who owned 2 tandems with his wife and ridden all over Europe and the US, not only helped us figure out that we wanted to change in Pasing, but helped us carry the bike down and up and onto the train! He was going with us until Pasing, so we got a chance to chat. Europe is so much better about cycling culture than the US: he told me that when he dropped his children off to school by tandem, the other kids would swarm around and beg to ride that cool bike. Upon reflection, I can't ever remember that happening to me in the USA!

Once in the Munich Hilton, they graciously got out our bike and wheel boxes. I took apart the bike and stuck the frame into the big box and gave it back to them. This time, bystanders helped me pack, though even with help it still took me a good 90 minutes to get things into a state where I could stick things into the wheel case and move into the room to finish packing. By this time it was 5:00pm, and we did our shower and then went out to buy chocolate.

Alan Wissenberg and Daniel Vogelheim had agreed to meet us for dinner, but I pre-fed Bowen some airport sushi in case they were held up or the service was slow. It turned out though, that the Airport Biergarten, Airbrau, was itself a brewery! The beer on tap was excellent. Alan had train troubles getting in, but he was resourceful and found us.
We finished the night late, chatting late into the night, but we had plenty of time the next morning anyway, though I was glad I went to the airport early, as we got stuck in a broken-down elevator in between floors while getting to the United checkin counter!
Fortunately, Bowen stayed calm and in typical German fashion, it only took 20 minutes for the technicians to come and rescue us. After checking in, we waited for Manuel Klimek and his family so we could meet his baby.

The airport had no less than 4 passport controls between us and the gate, so we had to move at a good clip, though we stopped to buy some Kinder surprise eggs, chocolate that  was banned in the US because they were considered a choking hazard.

On the flight, Bowen fell asleep only in the last hour, so I ended up having to carry his backpack, my backpack, our carryon, and him on my shoulders on our way to passport control. One flight attendant saw me and said: "You must be the best dad in the world!" I smiled at her, not mentioning that this was far easier than the mountains we'd already climbed together in Europe.

Xiaoqin picked us up soon after we'd gotten out of the terminal, and I was soon driving home. After 3 weeks of not driving, American roads with way too many cars moving too fast felt strange, but I got used to it.

Next

Wednesday, August 22, 2018

July 3rd: Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Tutzing

We woke up to cloudy skies. I packed everything and then went downstairs to check on the bike. I was pleased that the front tire was not flat. We had a big breakfast, and then when we checked out the owner told us that she needed cash, as she had no way to take credit card payments. We rode out to downtown but uncharacteristically, it took us 2 tries to find an ATM that worked!
We turned on our GPS navigator and started riding. We felt a rain drop here and there, but overall, it didn't look like thunderstorm weather. We used Google Maps routing on the Wahoo this time, and while it was mostly OK, there were times when its idea of a bike path was questionable:
This was somewhat familiar country to me, since it was close to Munich and I'd spent a good several months riding in the Bavarian country side every weekend: hills, river side dirt paths, and lots of towns with Onion domed churches. In Murnau, I found the bike feeling heavy and asked Bowen to check the back tire. "It's not flat," he said. I looked down and found that it was the front tire that was flat. Of course, the flat had to occur on a busy road with no shade right after we'd escaped all threat of rain. We pulled off to the sidewalk, I pulled out the front tire's tube but the hole was so small that I couldn't find it, and the road was so noisy that no matter how hard I listened I couldn't hear the hiss of air escaping the tube. I examined the tire but couldn't find a hole or foreign object stuck in it, so I shrugged and put in the other tube.
After that, the road started climbing steadily. The climb was fairly straightforward, taking us through forest lands and nicely enough, taking us away from main roads. In the small town of Habash, we stopped to eat the snacks we'd brought, trying to finish what was left of the power gels that we'd carried all throughout our tour so far. It turned out that the descent into Starnberg lake happened soon after.
The cloudy weather had caught up with us again, but now that the end was in sight, we knew we'd make the deadline no matter what. The bike path took us along the lake on dirt roads that slowly got smaller and smaller until we finally got to a single-track.
Once we got past the Tutzing city limit signs however, it didn't take 3 minutes of riding before we found the train station sign pointing us uphill. Since we didn't depart Tutzing via the bike path, it took a while for me to find the area familiar, but soon I saw the little square where we'd started from so many days ago. We stopped and bought snacks for the train, and then looked for the train ticket machines. Our tour was over.

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Tuesday, August 21, 2018

July 2nd: Zugspitze

After breakfast, I walked outside to put our borrowed backpack on the bike and then realized that we had a flat on the front tire. I took the front wheel off, examined the inner-tube, and found that a patch had failed. My frustration was compounded when the brand-new-in-box Vavert inner tube that we had carted up and down the alps in the pannier had a flat in the seam! In disgust, I threw away the tube, and made a note never to buy those inner tubes again. I had another pre-patched tube ready to go, so I put that in the tire and repatched the older tube.

After the entire process was over, we went downtown to buy sandwiches for the trip, and also hydro-cortisone, because Bowen was complaining of itchiness, possibly due to some insect bites from the hiking yesterday. Google Maps showed a 300m climb in 10km or so, but the ride to Grainau yesterday had very little climbing, so I guessed it had to be a pretty steep climb at the end. Indeed, I was right. The last 3km went up 10-12% grade, made much worse by the bike path which turned out to be unpaved. We ended up having to walk the last little bit. As we climbed, we observed that the car traffic wasn't that bad, and we should have just stuck with the main road and ignore the bike path signs.
The cable car up to the top of Zugspitz is a relatively new entry, only having been completed in the last year. In fact, they were still building out the top. While the older train took a good 90 minutes to get to the top, the cable car only took 15 minutes. We brought warm clothing, since the altitude at the top was 2900m, taller than even the top of Stelvio pass!
While it was sunny and warm at the bottom (near Elbsee), it was a partly cloudy, which meant that the fog would sweep in and out. This was fine, as we had plenty of time to out-wait the clouds, which were moving fast. At the top station, there's several walkways, one of which took you to the Austrian side of the mountain, so we did managed to get in one last border crossing:

The ticket also gave you a free ride down to the glacier area, which is a ski resort in winter. In fact, there was a snowfield big enough for kids to go sledding on (with a rental charge for the sleds), but it didn't look fun enough to Bowen for him to try.

Bowen got to spend some time playing in the snow. Since this was effectively a rest day after yesterday's massive effort, we took our time walking around and admiring the scenery, after which we took the cable car back to the summit restaurant, found a spot to watch the clouds move, and ate our sandwiches.
Back down at the Elbsee, it was warm and we rode to the lake side, but Bowen decided against riding around the lake. I settled for talking him into taking a picture with me and then we rode back to Garmisch, where once again we had ice cream.
After that, I talked Bowen into letting me take him to the Garmisch swimming pool, since our guest house had given us passes that let us in for free. He was reluctant, because he was still sore from yesterday, but I told him he'd have fun there, and we'd leave quickly if it wasn't. Well, all mentions of soreness disappeared when he saw the giant-sized water slide in the pool and took a ride. This was a 3 story ride, which meant that for every one of his 20 runs on that slide, he climbed 3 flights of stairs. Clearly, the soreness doesn't mean anything when there's a water slide involved!
Of course, by the time we got back and got showered and laundered, he was once again too sore to walk to dinner. This time, I took him to the Asian buffet. The sushi was terrible, but he hadn't had any for 3 weeks, so he went at it like it was going out of style. I looked at the forecast, and it called for thunderstorms in Garmisch the next day, but it would be sunny in Munich. What that meant was that we needed to head North as early and quickly as possible in the morning. I suggested going to Wolfrathausen, which I was familiar with and knew the ice cream shop. It was a little longer but had less climbing. Bowen wanted to return to Tutzing so he could complete a loop, even though we'd already broken the loop by taking all those train transfers.
After much thinking, I decided Bowen was right: the route to Tutzing paralleled the main train line, which meant that if we got into trouble or ran late, we could catch the train directly to Munich. The main constraint was that we had to get to the airport by 4:00pm, after which the S-Bahn wouldn't allow bikes in the cars. The Woflrathausen route had no such fallback. I plotted both routes on Komoot just in case. Of course, if it really did pour after breakfast, we could just roll into the train station and hop onto the easy train to Munich.

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